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Fan Clutch And Cooling Issues
- Thread starter SirDoopYJ
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This is an Oreily water pump my boss gave that he never used for his TJ. Has been sitting on a shelf, but the impeller has rust on it. I was going to use this and save my Mopar water pump for when if I ever rebuild my motor.
I think I should probably go ahead and use the Mopar onr, unless that surface rust is not a big deal.
I think I should probably go ahead and use the Mopar onr, unless that surface rust is not a big deal.
I always get the block surface clean and then install the thermostat or water pump with a dry gasket. Always worked for me. The block is cast iron so scrape at as much as you need to to get the old crap off.
OP
I am gonna go through and get the gunk off of the Timing Chain cover.
How does the Oreilly impeller look?
How does the Oreilly impeller look?
Oreilly looks fine. maybe sand the rust off real quick but I'd run it especially since it could be temporary use for you. If the bearing spins freely I'm sure it's probably fine.
OP
I got the idle pully that sits by thermos no problem, but the one below by the altenator keeps spinning left and wont loosen.
OP
OP
I would also like to go ahead and remove my AC compressor and the AC components. Is that easy to do? Mainly I see myself having isssues with the hoses that lead into firewall.
OP
I would use some RTV, just for good measure.
Having the RTVs' we have these days, I'm not sure why we're using gaskets on some things at all.
Guess we've just been "Trained" to.
Having the RTVs' we have these days, I'm not sure why we're using gaskets on some things at all.
Guess we've just been "Trained" to.
As far a removing the AC, that's piece of cake though you may have to cut the hoses where they go through the floor.
I had to cut mine bc the fittings wouldn't fit through the holes in the floor.
I retained my compressor to use as an air compressor for putting up tires.
Of course if you ditch the compressor you'll have to get a different belt.
I had to cut mine bc the fittings wouldn't fit through the holes in the floor.
I retained my compressor to use as an air compressor for putting up tires.
Of course if you ditch the compressor you'll have to get a different belt.
OP
Yeah, I have the belt ready. Bought it from rockauto a month ago.
Right now I at least have the condensor off and out the way. I dont mind cutting the hoses, if I eventually ever put AC back in, everything will be brand new. Right now I enjoy that humid Louisiana wind through my hair.
Right now I at least have the condensor off and out the way. I dont mind cutting the hoses, if I eventually ever put AC back in, everything will be brand new. Right now I enjoy that humid Louisiana wind through my hair.
The GMB parts have been decent from my experience. Looks like the old pump was leaking for a while based off the rust traces on it. Just above the lower hose neck (pic #1)looks to be a weird looking accumulation of rusty crud. Cant recall if the weep hole is there for the seal or not indicating a lengthy period of leakage. Also look like the impeller was hitting the backing plate possibly based off some scars on it. If thats really what I see the bearings and seal are wasted. What ever you do clean the block 100% clean at the mating surfaces to make sure you have a good seal.
I noticed the impeller wear against the pump housing too.
The bearings are definitely shot.
I still had the original iron pump with no leaks, but replaced it just because I was there.
If your pump inlet pipe doesn't come out reusable, the Dorman replacement is PN 56398.
My pipe came out minus the threads and I ended up fabbing one, but this before I knew replacements were available.
The bearings are definitely shot.
I still had the original iron pump with no leaks, but replaced it just because I was there.
If your pump inlet pipe doesn't come out reusable, the Dorman replacement is PN 56398.
My pipe came out minus the threads and I ended up fabbing one, but this before I knew replacements were available.
Yup, timing cover is indeed silver (mine was nasty too), AC is easy to remove, I had to cut the hoses as well, looks like you made good progress and the old pump was pretty nasty.
I mainly don’t use RTV because I don’t like cleaning up the mess from it later and the FSM tells me to install the pump dry with a gasket. Never had a failure with just a paper gasket so that’s how I continue to do it.
What I really like are modern aluminum engines that use o-rings on everything. Now THAT is super convenient. They practically never leak due to a failed o-ring seal. Water pumps like that really only need to be replaced when they leak out the bearings or the bearings wear out and go bad. Of course those two are usually not mutually exclusive anyways but it’s surely nice when the install of the new part is just popping the new part in place with an o-ring on it and bolting it down.
I mainly don’t use RTV because I don’t like cleaning up the mess from it later and the FSM tells me to install the pump dry with a gasket. Never had a failure with just a paper gasket so that’s how I continue to do it.
What I really like are modern aluminum engines that use o-rings on everything. Now THAT is super convenient. They practically never leak due to a failed o-ring seal. Water pumps like that really only need to be replaced when they leak out the bearings or the bearings wear out and go bad. Of course those two are usually not mutually exclusive anyways but it’s surely nice when the install of the new part is just popping the new part in place with an o-ring on it and bolting it down.
Ford went to using RTV, Specifically designated and designed for them.
It was more like epoxy than silicone and what ever was sealed with it would be pretty much be destroyed upon removal.
You mean using RTV with o rings? If so, that's weird, have not seen that. My 05 Ranger had the cast iron Vulcan 3.0 V6 (and M5OD 5MT). It used gaskets on everything, but was an ancient design that came from the older 2.9L years back. My brother's 2014 5.0 aluminum V8 was all O-rings, and pretty no silicone anywhere except maybe that giant V shaped timing cover. And that would be since it's a DOHC design, it has that super long timing chain and thus, a giant cover that can't really use a gasket or an o-ring. Comes with the territory of a DOHC V8. Otherwise though, all cooling system parts were o-ring only and it was great.
No o rings, just RTV. Nasty stuff too.
Discovered this when my buddy was trying to replace a rear main on a later model truck and had to literally destroy the pan to get it off the block.
I picked up a 01?? Nissan Xterra with the 3.0 about 5 years ago. It was a rolling coolant leak. Every joining part/assembly in the cooling system on that thing was gasket free and they used some type of sealant instead. Fun,fun,fun fixing it all.