I have the new Oreily cap. They didnt have the hoses. Autozone didnt have them either, so I am waiting until a hub can deliver them tomorrow morning.
Fan Clutch And Cooling Issues
- Thread starter SirDoopYJ
- Start date
When I remove the cap, it starts leaking pretty good from the upper hose connected to water pump
That's some weird looking gunk..Looks like a hairball a cat would yak-up, very strange.
Maybe gasket material? But there's sure a lot of it.
I think a complete flush is in order.
Me, I would pull the radiator, pump, water neck and flush everything with a garden hose while it's open.
Maybe gasket material? But there's sure a lot of it.
I think a complete flush is in order.
Me, I would pull the radiator, pump, water neck and flush everything with a garden hose while it's open.
I have already done this a year ago. Maybe I need to try the Prestone flush stuff and do it again? That is basically what I was finding in my reservoir tank in small amounts. Felt like a hairball like you are describing.
That being said, you seriously need to find out where that crap is coming from.
Like I said, there seems to be a lot of it, looks like residue from a misfitted homemade gasket, IMHO.
If you do pull the front of the engine apart, I would also recommend replacing the wp and the t-stat while you're there.
If you do, don't forget to get the water pump inlet return tube too.
It will probably not be reusable if it's OEM.
Gilaguy23
YJ Addict
Kinda looks like the Bars leak crap. The cap is nasty and pretty much guarantee its not doing its job as it should. IIRC you've flushed it several times but apparantly there is still lots of crud in there. Im sure your getting tires of messing with but Id pull the hoses off the radiator, pull the thermostat and stick a garden hose in the top hose and just blast the crap outta the block and then the radiator. Wonder of somebody tried to fix a heater core leak with sealer and not thats what your seeing.
Should I run the Jeep with Prestone Flush and distilled water for a bit before doing? And yes, I did do a flush with a garden hose with everything off, even the radiator. All that was coming out was the coolant the PO put in.
I think at this point, it could be crap clogged up in the radiator slowing breaking free. I should probably go ahead and replace it after the flush.
There is a pretty good rusty spot on my firewall where the heater hoses connect. I was going to clean that up while everything was off again. Could that be the leak? I have a used heater core from an '88 I could swap out if it is a leaky heater core. I guess I have to dig in behind the dash to inspect it?
I think at this point, it could be crap clogged up in the radiator slowing breaking free. I should probably go ahead and replace it after the flush.
There is a pretty good rusty spot on my firewall where the heater hoses connect. I was going to clean that up while everything was off again. Could that be the leak? I have a used heater core from an '88 I could swap out if it is a leaky heater core. I guess I have to dig in behind the dash to inspect it?
Gilaguy23
YJ Addict
I was thinking you had already replaced the radiator but if you hadent yet thats good with all the crap in there floating around. Sounds like the heater core was or is possibly leaking thus the rusty firewall. It may also have just been loose clamps where the hoses connect. Look for coolant crusties on the bottom of the heater box inside the cab which would be a tell tale sign of leakage of if you smell coolant when the heater or defrost is on. You could bypass the core completely if need be, just jumper a hose from point to point bypassing the core. Not helpful with winter coming though. I cant see any down side to adding the flush and then running it or driving it a bit and even doing it a second time if need be before calling it good. That crud will not do a new rad any favors ya know. Are you getting a floating layer of that crud on top of the recovery bottle and in the rad, as in oil contamination??
I haven't replaced it. I figured it would be best to do the flush with the old stuff still attached before adding on new. I also have a Oreily water pump my boss gave me I can go ahead and swap and I have a mopar one on hand as well.
I never noticed a coolant smell with the defrosters on.
I noticed patches of a clear oily film, but nothing that would be dark enough to be oil. The two times I cleaned out my recovery bottle while it was removed there was light brownish gunk at the bottom. I also have the small chunks of "hairballs" that sit on top of the recovery bottle that I noticed just recently.
I never noticed a coolant smell with the defrosters on.
I noticed patches of a clear oily film, but nothing that would be dark enough to be oil. The two times I cleaned out my recovery bottle while it was removed there was light brownish gunk at the bottom. I also have the small chunks of "hairballs" that sit on top of the recovery bottle that I noticed just recently.
Dumped out the rest of my coolant to get ready to add flush.
I have blue devil flush and is recommended to fill motor with water and run the motor with just water for 10 minutes.
I have water in the radiator and allow the motor to warm up so I can add more. The moment my thermostat opens it starts leaking underneath waterpump. Seems like maybe the seal to my waterpump busted? This could explain why I am finding the hair like gunk in my resovoir? I also hear air and bubbly noises coming from my thermostat as it drains. May not havr a perfect seal there as well?
I have blue devil flush and is recommended to fill motor with water and run the motor with just water for 10 minutes.
I have water in the radiator and allow the motor to warm up so I can add more. The moment my thermostat opens it starts leaking underneath waterpump. Seems like maybe the seal to my waterpump busted? This could explain why I am finding the hair like gunk in my resovoir? I also hear air and bubbly noises coming from my thermostat as it drains. May not havr a perfect seal there as well?
Hmmmm. That's questionable because coolant is always there regardless of thermostat being open or not. Or maybe ever since you leaked out a bunch, then now no more fluid was there to leak out but when the thermostat is opening now, coolant is finally there and hits the leaky spot? Bizarre for sure.
I am going to change it out regardless now. I was hoping to do a flush before changing it, but now that seems impossible until I can get it to hold coolant.
I don't see it leaking anywheres else and I reattached the lower hose. Around the head looks fine, but I can't tell behind the pulleys and what not.
I thought maybe it was my thermostat because I used a fel pro gasket, but only used thermos gasket maker on thermostat side. It is dry there, but the bubbing air I hear is concerning.
I don't see it leaking anywheres else and I reattached the lower hose. Around the head looks fine, but I can't tell behind the pulleys and what not.
I thought maybe it was my thermostat because I used a fel pro gasket, but only used thermos gasket maker on thermostat side. It is dry there, but the bubbing air I hear is concerning.
Looks fairly simple to change. Ill go ahead and order my radiator too and do both. I want this to end.
It is possible I had my belt on too tight.
It is possible I had my belt on too tight.
Gilaguy23
YJ Addict
I really dont think belt tension is any issue. That would put the strain to the bearings if anything. The seals and bearings do go eventually, just part of mechanical life. The gurgling may not really be a issue but without being there to see or hear Its hard to speculate. The thermo passage isnt that big really and if its closed and you have one with what is a little passage on top of the body(which should be at the 12 position) it may make sounds as it allows air and coolant to pass by it. The chemical flush would be nice but if ya cant,ya cant. As mentioned before with the hoses off the rad,thermo out and a a good long blast into the block it should knock anything out. The heater core can be done the same once the hoses are disconnected too. Just dont put the 50+ psi water pressure to either, just a good flushing. Might sound screwy but if your OCD like me after its flushed you can take a leaf blower to the top rad hose and blow out the water in the block to get rid of whats left in. On the thermostats I typically set the thermo into its recessed edge, set the gasket with a very light film of RTV over it, put light film of rtv on the thermo housing and make sure everything is in place correctly and then put the bolts in with a nice coast of anti seize on them. Just make sure the poppet on the thermo is into the block, not the housing and if the new thermo has a bypass chingadera make sure its at the 12 O clock position.
I like this^. I have always wondered how to get the extra bit of water out the block so you can get a good mix of coolant and distilled.
I am going with a NAPA Radiator and will be picking that up today. I am going to do a little bit throughout the week to hopefully have it running this weekend.
I don't remember what way the stripe goes but it will only work one way, so you'll figure it out.
Don't freakout when you have extra holes. That gasket is a 2-fitment design that fits the 2000+ 4.0 which uses a different water pump and bolt pattern. The gasket was made to be sold as one single part that works for both. You'll figure out what way the gasket goes when you try to put it onto the pump. It will only line up one possible way, and flipping the gasket will screw that up.
Don't freakout when you have extra holes. That gasket is a 2-fitment design that fits the 2000+ 4.0 which uses a different water pump and bolt pattern. The gasket was made to be sold as one single part that works for both. You'll figure out what way the gasket goes when you try to put it onto the pump. It will only line up one possible way, and flipping the gasket will screw that up.
It's been 2-1/2 years since I replaced mine and it didn't come with a gasket so I made my own.
I've made gaskets hundreds of times, so no big deal.
Interestingly enough I bought a t-stat housing gasket on my first go around and it had an adhesive backing on one side.
How cool I thought.
But it was on the housing side of the gasket, not the head to hold the t-stat in place, just thought that was weird.
Maybe my logic is wrong?
Anyway, Good on you Doop!
Git 'r done!
I've made gaskets hundreds of times, so no big deal.
Interestingly enough I bought a t-stat housing gasket on my first go around and it had an adhesive backing on one side.
How cool I thought.
But it was on the housing side of the gasket, not the head to hold the t-stat in place, just thought that was weird.
Maybe my logic is wrong?
Anyway, Good on you Doop!
Git 'r done!
Gilaguy23
YJ Addict
Far as silicone goes if you have non pitted or corroded mating surfaces then you really dont need to use any sealant. if you do be very sparing just enough to take care of any irregularities. Ive torn more stuff apart like diffs that had massive wads of silicone both on the inside of the covers and/or chunks floating in the lube from using way to much. Plus its slippery as all get out so it can cause gasket deformations if you go wild with it. I typically use the black or grey Versachem brand from Orieleys and have had no issues with it. IIRC they are 450 degree tolerant and the red is typically 650 and O2 sensor safe in exhaust applications.
Yea, Im getting it. The gasket came with the Mopar one I bought, but I am saving that water pump for another time. My boss gave me an Oreily one he never used for his TJ.
So Ill be fine with just the gasket, no need for any aditional gasket maker?
So Ill be fine with just the gasket, no need for any aditional gasket maker?