Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler YJ radiator

1994 Hunter Green SE “Back to Stock” Thread

Definitely agree on the look. Nothing wrong with a totally stock YJ but the "street" tires they came with just look so out of place to me. I have KO2's on my YJ and sure they are nosier than a street tread tire but not near enough to be annoying to me, anyway. I think that little aggressive add on will make a big difference in appearance.
 
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Definitely agree on the look. Nothing wrong with a totally stock YJ but the "street" tires they came with just look so out of place to me. I have KO2's on my YJ and sure they are nosier than a street tread tire but not near enough to be annoying to me, anyway. I think that little aggressive add on will make a big difference in appearance.

Pretty much the same opinion. It won’t hurt much to run a more aggressive tire, while helping the look and it will help performance if I do decide to wheel it at all.

If I don’t go with BFG, then I’m going with Toyos. If I do the Toyos, then I’d probably do the 235/75 load C’s.

The plan is still the KO3s, the biggest question is what size to go with, and then what to do for the spare. 235 load D would be heavy on the tailgate and 235 really doesn’t fit the tailgate bumpers very well. 215 would fit fine and being load C, I think the weight would be tolerable. I could go with a non matching tire but I’d want a cover to cover it up if I do that. Decisions decisions.
 
Little bit more progress made. The guy who I bought the axles from had a lift on his YJ, something around 4" I believe. As such, the drag link was lengthened to center his steering wheel. Of course, when you go back to a stock rig with the same linkage, it's too long.

Not wanting to completely ruin the surface of the drag link with tons of bite marks, I opted to not use my pipe wrench and instead, try out a tie rod adjusting tool OTC 7023: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1E65G?tag=yjforum-20

The tool actually works, which I was somewhat surprised by...I expected my luck to be worse. It's designed to spread apart the link at the clamp split, and then of course once it's opened up enough, it will turn. Part of the problem, though, is the lack of lift has my drag link and tie rod just about parallel, and the drag link was so close to the tie rod that I could really only use the tool for half of a rotation, and then I would hit the tie rod. Ultimately, I ended up having to use the pipe wrench anyways, although breaking the link loose gave me a better start so I didn't have to put as much force into it with the pipe wrench.

None of it matters anyways, because once I got the drag link close to the right length, it became difficult to turn and the tie rod tool ended up tearing the drag link at the clamp split. Lol.

IMG_0784.JPEG

Ultimately, I ended up removing the drag link, removed both tie rod ends, and moved them over to my newer aftermarket drag link that I bought several years back. Cleaned up the threads with a wire brush, lubricated with anti seize, and installed.

I got the length mostly dialed in, although there feels like a very small dead spot in the center. Could be my Lares steering gear, or maybe could just be the steering linkage design, though I feel like I didn't have this dead spot when it was all stock 12 years ago. If there is no dead spot, then I just need to adjust it a tiny bit more so that it lands perfectly when going straight. Right now it is slightly off still after several adjustments.

Overall though, the handling is pretty good. Much, much better than it's been over the past few years. Hoping I can bleed the brakes again within the next few days, and maybe that will finally put things back to normal. Hoping to renew registration today, which will officially make it road legal. No inspections to pass since Texas did away with safety, and while I live in an emissions test county, it's older than 24 years old, so it's exempt from that too.

Once all the brakes/steering stuff are confirmed good for sure, I will work on buttoning up the interior so that it looks presentable on the road. I'll finally wash off all the dust from sitting, and the bringing it back from the dead will pretty much be done.

Also still working on the rear axle project. Just haven't had time or appropriate weather to bring it out to the driveway and clean it off and paint it. Once I can do that, I'll dive in on the swap, and build the new axle up with some of the parts from my existing axle.
 
Registration is renewed, so I can now hit the streets whenever I feel like it. That pretty much means as soon as the brakes are bled and working reliably enough.
 
It's alive lol!!! It's been a long road back but I am sure it feels good to be able to drive it again.

Lol, yeah, getting close. Hopefully the brakes work well after some bleeding. Once that is the case, I won’t really have any qualms about driving it.

Definitely feels good to drive it again, especially while not handling like complete garbage. I had a number of things contributing to that, but now all the variables are gone.

As soon as my tire guy can get the tires, I’m going to get those installed onto the wheels and then I’ll really be in business. Although I can definitely drive what I’ve got, but I want to get all the things done, and that’s one of them.
 
It’s been storming all week, so I didn’t take the Jeep out on the streets until today. I drove it to get some gas (ethanol free from Walmart), and then drove it to pick up takeout.

Overall, I would describe the handling and overall driving experience as good, not great. Still a lot of little things to tend to. The brakes absolutely need more bleeding, and some sort of adjustment at the booster. The pedal makes a weird click noise when it reaches a certain point. Not sure what that is.

The handling is still a bit weird. It’s a bit vague on center, and seems to have a bit of a dead spot in the center as well. Driving down the road straight, it’s actually pretty solid. Going on a curvy road, it’s a bit twitchy. The dead spot combined with the wheels actually responding somewhat twitchily (such as turning too sharp on a curve and correcting back the other way) ends up a bit sketchy.

I pulled into a parking spot at the restaurant and came to a stop. Used to my truck’s wide turning radius, so I took the turn pretty sharp and ended up turning too far and got crooked, so I corrected the wheel back the other way and it was just sort of squirrelly or something. I hit the brake and overall the whole thing just felt weird.

Like I said, the brakes need attention. It’s hard to evaluate driving conditions under braking when the brakes aren’t even bled properly. Next, I need some time for the tires to break in. The Toyos I have currently have a compound on the tread at the tips that seems to burn off in the first 500 or so miles. I recall when I had LT rated Toyos with similar style tread on my truck, it was even squirrelly to drive at first until that compound went away. So, part of the handling may improve on its own anyways.

I am also waiting to switch to KO3s, so the tires may solve themselves automatically if I switch to KO3s. Supposedly the sizes I’m interested in are out now, just need a chance for the shop to be able to order them. I am still undecided on 215/75 vs 235/75.

The exhaust is going to drive me crazy. I like the sound of the Magnaflow, but for whatever reason, I could not get the Magnaflow cat back far enough onto the cat, and so the hanger stud on the tailpipe is jammed into the exhaust hanger bracket for the tailpipe, and is making a very high pitch screeching noise as the exhaust moves slightly. I hear it sometimes at idle.

When I start to drive, I hear a noise that I initially thought was a bearing, but I think it’s actually that same exhaust noise, just happening at a faster frequency, due to loading the motor and putting more vibration into the exhaust, which ups the frequency of the high pitched noise. I might take the catback back off and see about cutting some of the cat pipe off so I can maybe slide the muffler on further. I need to fix that noise, because it will drive me crazy. My alternative is to cut the hanger stud off and move it half an inch or so forward, and reweld.

Any other noises are mostly due to crap on the cab that either will be removed or items not secure. For example, loose hardtop bolts, loose t-case shifter, some miscellaneous junk on the floor, etc.

Overall, I’m making progress. Just one step at a time, which is slow feeling. It definitely drives decently, but there are some quirks I want to work on. I do need to let the tires break in and see how that changes things…that or replace them with the KO3s already.
 
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My thread is going to be pretty boring at this point, not that it was ever that exciting. I mostly wrote up a punchlist that I am working through for all the little issues.

KO3s are ordered. I went with the 215s, mostly to keep it stock and to save some weight and harshness. The 215s are already a whopping 34.2 lbs, which is quite a bit for a 28X8.50 tire. I'm not even sure I will run this combo on the tailgate as the spare. We will see, but I feel like that's asking a lot of the YJ hinges. The 15X7 wheels are already 24.4 lbs on their own, so we're pushing 60 lbs with the mounted combo. I don't want to wear out my tailgate, tub, or hinges. Comparatively, the compact factory polyspare (15X6 + 225/75R15 tire) is only 39 lbs total. That's a pretty big increase.

I have a weird issue with the sway bar links hitting the front axle shock brackets. Not sure what the deal is, the links are Mevotech and the leaf spring plates are Crown. They both seem to be like stock, but there must be some bad tolerances somewhere. When I compress the suspension, the sway bar links will touch the axle brackets, which is no good. I compared pics with @Sunsport who also has a stock rig, and he has more clearance for sure. So I ordered up some factory leaf spring plates off eBay to see if that solves the problem. If not, I am going to order up new links from Mopar if I can. They seem to be available.

My sway bar link at ride height (barely any clearance):

IMG_0826.JPEG

My sway bar link when stuffing the suspension (no clearance, hits):

IMG_0857.JPEG

Sunsport's (decent clearance):

20250505_190831_resized.jpg


So I guess we will see what the spring plates do. Maybe my Mevotech links have more bend in them than stock, but I don't think so. The bar is stock and the axle is in the stock location, so I can't think of what else it could be unless somehow the aftermarket leaf springs are locating the axle in the wrong spot...which I really doubt.

The bearing noise when driving seems to be normal drivetrain noise...I am currently driving with no outer shift boot, and the inner is torn (despite being new) at the 4x shifter. So I want to cover that tear and then install the outer boot and see how it sounds. I threw a rag over the hole while driving the other day and it quieted down significantly. I have to imagine with normal boot operation, the noise is probably just not audible, and that I am hearing noises I am not intended to hear.

As a last ditch effort, I ordered another Borla exhaust kit, this time from napa. Going to see if I can make it fit properly and then sell the Magnaflow. I want it a bit quieter and I want to fix the interference issues. I have already tried this in the past, but I have some ideas to try it again and see if I can make it work this time.

Weather has been ridiculous, so no progress on the rear axle build lately. Hoping to get started on that this evening and maybe get to swap it in this weekend. Once that and the wheels/tires are swapped, I'll upload some pics. I have more work to do on the neighbor's truck this weekend, so we'll see what all gets done. At this point, I'll probably really start driving this thing in the fall. I can already drive it whenever, but it's still not really pleasant to do so until I dot the t's and cross the i's.
 
Stupid question but can you not flip the sway bar links around the other way so they bow away from the axle? I forgot they are bowed like that as I removed mine for some "removable" links that are just straight up and down.
 
Stupid question but can you not flip the sway bar links around the other way so they bow away from the axle? I forgot they are bowed like that as I removed mine for some "removable" links that are just straight up and down.

Unfortunately not, they will hit the tie rod in that orientation. I would like to get some disconnects, but I haven't found many in stock length. I want to get some JKS quicker disconnects eventually, but not going to deal with it at the moment.
 
For what it’s worth, I have ~7mm clearance where yours are hitting. (Of course I have different springs.). Also it’s about 73mm from the center bolt of the plate to the center of the welded link mounting post.

IMG_5025.jpeg


Maybe those Crown plates welded the mount 3-4mm too for rearward?
 
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For what it’s worth, I have ~7mm clearance where yours are hitting. (Of course I have different springs.). Also it’s about 73mm from the center bolt of the plate to the center of the welded link mounting post.

View attachment 123806

Maybe those Crown plates welded the mount 3-4mm too for rearward?

Thanks for this! I’m going to compare in a bit and see. Definitely possible the Crowns are off. Based on appearance, the sway bar links don’t seem off by enough to cause this issue. At least not by themselves. I feel like it has to be the spring plates, which is why I started by buying used OEM first.
 
For what it’s worth, I have ~7mm clearance where yours are hitting. (Of course I have different springs.). Also it’s about 73mm from the center bolt of the plate to the center of the welded link mounting post.

View attachment 123806

Maybe those Crown plates welded the mount 3-4mm too for rearward?

So, the crown plate is designed slightly differently, with the welded mount being longer (so it goes across more of the plate), making it difficult to eyeball a measurement. So it could just be me moving my head in a way that makes me want to see a smaller measurement, but I seem to be getting 69-70 mm. Could definitely be the issue.

The photo doesn’t capture it because of the angle, but the measurement was 70.13mm.

IMG_0889.jpeg

If I’m off by roughly 3.2mm, then this gap added in seems like it would provide the clearance needed. Guess we’ll see what happens when the OEM plates show up.

IMG_0890.jpeg
 
I don’t know why, but my YJ specifically has always been a pain when it comes to aftermarket stuff fitting properly. There is ALWAYS some snag. In this case, I am talking about the exhaust.

The history of my exhaust is as follows:

  • July 2013 - Bought the YJ, with all factory original exhaust. Catalytic converter was rattling (internals break up and then shake around, supposedly common). No loss of performance or anything, just noisy.
  • November 2013 - I go out of town for a week on a trip with my mom, and my dad takes the YJ to a local shop and has them replace the cat. Does this as a surprise/gift. I come home to a quiet YJ.
  • A week later I notice a weird startup rattle, only when starting the engine. It seemed to be in the cat area and so I took it back to the shop. They said they removed a dust shield or something. I am not sure how a cat has a dust shield (or why it wasn’t removed upon install originally), but that’s what they said. Noise solved.
  • April 2014 - factory muffler starts rattling. Not sure why, but it sounded really bad and obnoxious. I couldn’t really see the issue but I suspect the heat shield strapped on top probably was loose and rattling.
  • May 2014 - install a flow master 44 muffler and walker tailpipe. Terrible sound, super loud and awful. I couldn’t get the muffler to crimp to the pipe (broke several clamps), so the tailpipe would rattle around. Just horrible.
  • August 2015 - got sick and tired of the flow master, so I ordered a Dynomax muffler and tailpipe kit. This one fit pretty good, although sometimes the tall tailpipe hump would rattle against the tub.
  • January 2017 - the Dynomax has a raspy sound…turns out the front pipe that connects to the cat broke off of the front of the muffler completely. Kept riding it like this (barely ever drove it) until March 2019.
  • March 2019 - installed Magnaflow cat & cat back. It fit mediocrely, it was a pain to get just right, but I got it and I don’t recall it hitting the tailpipe hanger. Didn’t hit the tub or anything else, either.
  • I don’t remember why or when but eventually I took the exhaust apart, and put it back together, and on the magnaflow tailpipe, the piece of metal that hangs the tailpipe started hitting the hanger bracket bolted to the frame. Essentially a symptom of the kit being installed too far rearward, because the hanger piece is welded in front of the factory tailpipe hanger bracket on the frame.
  • October 2022 - tried a borla kit with magnaflow cat, wouldn’t fit. Trimmed the cat, still wouldn’t fit. Tailpipe hits the fuel tank front frame crossmember. Returned kit. Reinstalled magnaflow that still hits hanger.
  • 2024 - tried all walker cat, muffler, and tailpipe. Tailpipe hits tub like the old Dynomax kit did (same parent brand). Took back apart to reinstall magnaflow, ruined all the Walker stuff trying to get it apart (crimped together)
  • It’s 2025 now - annoyed with Magnaflow hitting the hanger bracket, so I ordered another borla to try again. WTF - still a problem.
So there are basically 3 components to this problem.

1. The muffler has an enlarged pipe to slide over the cat exit pipe. This means that the muffler bottoms out on the cat pipe. This could be a good thing.
2. The tailpipe has some bends in it that are supposed to put the pipe in the right spot.
3. The tip goes on the tailpipe and is what hangs in the hanger. The tip looks obviously wrong when it’s installed not straight up and down, so you ideally want to get it perfectly straight.


So for the problems. First, you install the muffler onto the cat and it slides on as far as it will go. Right off the bat, this puts the whole kit too far back. The tailpipe will not go on without jamming straight into the frame crossmember for the front of the fuel tank. No matter what you do to the tailpipe (which way you rotate it), it will not work right.

So the solution to that so you can begin to go in the right direction is to trim the cat exit pipe. I measured from the cat body to where the Borla pipe stopped initially (1”) , and cut off that same inch from the end of the cat exit pipe.

Slid the borla back on, and it bottomed out on the cat body. Good. This means it’s as far as it can reasonably go. The only way to go further would be to trim the cat exit more and then also trim the borla entrance some, which I don’t want to do.

Even with this trimming, the tailpipe doesn’t f’ing fit. I can force it to kinda fit, but I have to turn the muffler off of level, I have to really put force into the pipe away from the frame (and clamp it that way), and then even once I’ve done that, the tip still really does not want to sit straight. If I try to turn it straight, it forces the tailpipe back into the frame.

So WTF? What gives? What am I doing wrong? Is aftermarket stuff really just this bad of a fit? There is no reason why my YJ should have this much trouble with this. I’m using stock style engine/trans mounts, I have a stock tub, stock frame, stock hangers. I just don’t understand why I have an issue.

I fired up the engine with the borla stuff in place and go figure, I love the way it sounds. Sounds much quieter and refined than the Magnaflow. I’m tempted to put the Magnaflow back on anyways, because I bet with the 1” trimmed off the cat, I can probably get the muffler on enough to avoid the tailpipe squeak. However, I don’t really want to run the MF because it’s loud and annoying. But maybe it’s my short term solution.

I am tempted to make my long term solution be to install the borla (crappily) and then take it to a muffler shop and tell them to rework the pipe until it fits and don’t quit until it’s done.

I don’t know what else to do. I’m tired of the exhaust either being too loud, rattling, breaking, or just plain fitting so poorly that I can’t install it to begin with. I don’t understand why I have issues and I just want them solved.

I have found a factory 2.5L muffler/tailpipe brand new, but with it being a different part number, I don’t know if it would fit properly. I do know that the borla advertises itself as 4.0L fitment only, so there should be zero excuse for it not fitting.

Pictures for funsies.
IMG_0902.jpeg
IMG_0903.jpegIMG_0905.jpeg
 
Well, I’m not exactly thrilled with it but I got it installed and to where it doesn’t touch anything, and with the tip almost straight. Had to tilt the muffler towards the right side so that it pushed the tailpipe more into the grooved spot on the frame (where the pipe has clearance), and then had to make sure not to turn the tip too vertical, because doing so pushes the pipe back over left which then makes it hit the frame. The tip is not off by too much, so I think it’s livable. It’s not even really noticeable except for the drain hole in the bottom of the tip (TWSS).

IMG_0918.jpeg


IMG_0920.jpeg

IMG_0917.jpeg

I do like the way it sounds. Not a fan of the blingy tip, but oh well. I care more about a reserved sound and no rubbing on anything. If it meets that criteria, then I pretty much can’t complain at this point.
 
Here's something interesting. I stumbled upon this photo on another forum of a guy who replaced his exhaust and posted some photos. Notice this little nub on the factory downpipe. I still have the factory downpipe, and mine has the same piece on it. I believe this is an anti-rotation feature for the factory components.

I have never known what this was for before, because the original cat was replaced by that shop I mentioned from 2013. I believe this is part of the problem. All of the cats I've bought over the years (Magnaflow and Walker really), have had no sort of slot cut into them to allow them to index onto that nub. As such, all I end up doing is sliding the cat onto the pipe until it bottoms out on the nub. This could be eating up probably 1/2" of exhaust clearance.

I think I'm going to take everythig apart, and either slot that front of the cat pipe, or I will cut the front of the cat shorter so that it slides further forward before hitting the nub and bottoming out. This would give me adequate clearance for the Borla tailpipe, and then I could finally have my problems with fitment fixed I think.

I think the way everyone gets around problems like this is they have aftermarket downpipes that don't have that locator, or a shop did them something custom, etc. No telling what the deal is, but this might begin to explain part of the problem at least. What it doesn't explain though, is why I already had to cut an inch off of the cat to get the Borla installed to begin with. So even if the cat did accommodate this piece on the pipe, I still would have needed to cut a considerable amount off the back of the cat for the Borla, which still seems incorrect. Regardless, I may at least have my own solution for this problem to provide more clearance and get the tailpipe tip straightened up and down so it looks right.

cat.jpeg
 
I'm going to go about this a different way. I'm going to swap to the 1992 and earlier setup, with the 4-bolt cat. I have done this in the past, but it didn't work out due to the Crown pipe and the bent cat support I got from eBay. There is a guy here making reproduction brackets, and I found a better looking pipe that I can buy locally, from AP Eastern brand. The cat to go along with it is a Walker, and it has a super long exit pipe, which I can cut to the proper length. This will be the easiest way to get everything proper.
If the parts don't match the photos and don't work out, then I can return the pipe to Autozone and the cat to Amazon. One benefit to this will be it will be easier to take apart for clutch jobs or whatever else the exhaust gets in the way of in the future. So hopefully this works out.

Reproduction bracket

1746802272245.png

Walker cat

1746802300806.png
 
So, the Walker 1992 cat came in, and lol….this ain’t gonna work. They flare it out. It’s the same diameter as the muffler. WTF - why? I don’t understand how any of these parts work for anyone. I compared it to my now-removed Magnaflow, and of course, that connection doesn’t work at all - they are the same size. So how does anyone possibly use this muffler out of the box? I don’t get how parts are designed and sold to not work. I can’t see how anybody buying this muffler could possibly make it work without serious cutting and rewelding/extending of the pipe.

Gonna examine the other 1992 cat options and if I don’t find any, then im continuing on with notching my existing cat so it will slide further onto the head pipe.

IMG_0948.jpeg

IMG_0946.jpeg
 
What a pain. My Walker Quietflow SS muffler fit right into the Walker straight section of pipe, which the JBA mid pipe fit right into from the other side. My issue was the backside of the Walker muffler as both sides are the same diameter so the rear exhaust had to fit inside of it, it should have gone outside. would like to find a better tail pipe section for mine.

Exhaust.jpg
 
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What a pain. My Walker Quietflow SS muffler fit right into the Walker straight section of pipe, which the JBA mid pipe fit right into from the other side. My issue was the backside of the Walker muffler as both sides are the same diameter so the rear exhaust had to fit inside of it, it should have gone outside. would like to find a better tail pipe section for mine.

View attachment 123842

Yeah, I’m really just confused at this point. I know there used to be a Mopar Catback and it was only for 93-95 4.0L Wrangler, so there must truly be some not so well documented differences between 1992 and earlier (maybe smaller muffler entry to slip into the back of the cat) vs 93+, and there are definitely length differences or something between 2.5L and 4.0L because those used different part numbers across all the years. They also used different cats and of course different downpipes.

So I guess I shouldn’t be surprised at poor fitment from anything, as there were a LOT of exhaust part numbers over the years and yet the aftermarket hits everything with an almost one size fits all approach. And being the way I am, slightly neurotic, I am probably letting it frustrate and bother me more than it should.

I think instead of trying other 92 cats, I’m just going to take all my stuff apart again, grind a slot into the cat so it slides further onto the downpipe, and then call it good with additional Borla clearance. Maybe that’s a good job for tomorrow.





As for your setup, yeah I noticed the same with the walker tailpipe. It goes into the muffler which is unnatural/backwards for flow. This is what I think I’m figuring out was stock for the 92 muffler to cat connection as well, and is also odd.

I was definitely not a fan of the walker tailpipe. It worked, but it looked bad (at least on mine), it hung low, and without body lift, it rubbed the tub. The Dynomax version of the pipe is the same build but has a better looking tip and most of it is stainless. It still rubbed the tub and looked low and weird at the tip so I didn’t really like it either.

I just don’t understand why nobody makes something stock looking. Stock isn’t beautiful either because it turns rusty, but the shape is right and it has the turn down instead of just being a big open piece of tube at the back of the jeep lol. I did like the Magnaflow for its turn down at the tip. But I didn’t like the noise of the Magnaflow.

It’s ALWAYS something.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler YJ radiator