1994 Hunter Green SE “Back to Stock” Thread

Amazing work. Your knowledge is amazing. 4.10 gears sounds cool on the YJ, but I can’t see myself taking on what you did to get them. I’ll be content with 3.55!

Do you want to offload your OME shocks? I’ve been tempted to buy some because the Skyjacker shocks seem quite stiff, but I couldn’t justify paying new prices in just a hunch they’d give a slightly less harsh ride.
 
I like the steel rims as well. Mine came with TJ Canyon wheels, painted dark. They’re ok, but i like the originals better. Where did you find the center caps for sale?
 
Amazing work. Your knowledge is amazing. 4.10 gears sounds cool on the YJ, but I can’t see myself taking on what you did to get them. I’ll be content with 3.55!

Do you want to offload your OME shocks? I’ve been tempted to buy some because the Skyjacker shocks seem quite stiff, but I couldn’t justify paying new prices in just a hunch they’d give a slightly less harsh ride.

Thanks, really it’s nothing special, just mostly buying tools and learning the processes. For an axle rebuild it’s pretty much a beam style inch pound torque wrench and a clamshell bearing puller. But understandable for sure, 3.55s weren’t bad. 3.07s suck for sure. I had 3.55, I wasn’t thrilled with it years ago but that was on 31’s. If I had 3.55s with stock tires, I wouldn’t change it because it wouldn’t be worth it to me.

I definitely want to let go of the OME’s once I drive around and determine I like the Bilsteins. I’ll save the boxes so I can ship them. I jumped the gun by ordering Bilsteins, really I should have kept the OMEs to see more of how I like them, but the little bit of driving I did do, they were very soft. Which is a good thing on stiff arched springs, but on stock soft springs I think firmer is better, hence the Bilsteins.

I like the steel rims as well. Mine came with TJ Canyon wheels, painted dark. They’re ok, but i like the originals better. Where did you find the center caps for sale?

I like the Canyon wheels, my only thing with them is they’re 8” and so a 30x9.5 is ideal. Which is fine, but on a stock YJ there is potential for some rub which annoys me, and like I said they look kind of crammed at stock height. Not bad, just not my preference. I do understand 235s are perfectly fine to run, although sometimes they look weird on an 8” wheel. I considered Canyons and keeping the 30’s but ultimately decided on the steelies instead.

I got the center caps from hubcaps.org. We will see how they look today. The OEM screws for them that hold them to the wheel from the backside are impossible to find, but I found a YouTube video saying that #12x1/2” stainless screws with a slotted hex head will do the job. So I ordered a box of those screws from McMaster and today will see how they do with the caps when the caps come in. As long as the caps and wheels are in good shape, I’ll be real happy with this swap. Thing is going to look fully original when I’m done. Didn’t think I’d take it this far honestly.
 
I like the steel rims as well. Mine came with TJ Canyon wheels, painted dark. They’re ok, but i like the originals better. Where did you find the center caps for sale?

The center caps look fantastic. Very little evidence to say they were used. They are definitely used, but the paint job is great and the Jeep stickers in the middle are in good shape. So I recommend these for sure.

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One snag though is that the fastening method for them are built in plastic posts with little sheet metal threaded caps crimped on top. Eventually the plastic wears out at the crimp and the caps spin. No bueno. Most of mine are holding firm, but a few of them spin.

Part of the problem is the screws I’m using. A YouTube video recommended using #12x1/2” sheet metal screws with a slotted hex head. I think #12 is too large. I think the resistance of the screw threading in helped to spin the caps. #10x1/2” holds the cap perfectly firm to the wheel and doesn’t offer much resistance to thread in, which is good. #10 is also ideal because #12 is close to the same size as the wheel holes, so the screws have extra stuff to thread through before they even get to the cap. Makes it difficult to remove the screws from the wheel even when they are clear from the cap. I suppose that could be good or bad. Anywho, I will be going with #10s unless they prove too small in some locations. I doubt that will happen.

For the ones spinning, I will pop them off and adhere them back on with a strong super glue and see how that holds. If it doesn’t, I’ll try a plastic to metal epoxy. I think the super glue will be good enough for what we’re doing though…I sure hope so anyways. These need to be removable for future tire installations.

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I picked up zinc ones from Home Depot for testing, but to prevent any future seizing, I’m going to order stainless from McMaster Carr. It’s worth doing right.
 
Wheels finally shipped, so hopefully once the KO3s come out in my size, I can get those mounted quickly. Like I said, I ordered from OriginalWheels.com. Based on my initial impressions, great place to buy from. They called me to let me know that my 5 wheels would ship from 3 locations and might look slightly different shades of silver. I could return them if unhappy but I would end up eating all shipping costs including shipping originally paid. I expressed concern with this and so they started a hunt for 5 wheels not already finished, which they could gather up to one location, then do their work on all at once so they would all look consistent. They located 5 wheels within a few days and refinished them over the last 3.5 days. All at no additional charge vs what I paid originally.

They shipped today and I'll get them Sunday. Not too bad at all. Hopefully they look good.
 
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Wheels finally shipped, so hopefully once the KO3s come out in my size, I can get those mounted quickly. Like I said, I ordered from OriginalWheels.com. Based on my initial impressions, great place to buy from. They called me to let me know that my 5 wheels would ship from 3 locations and might look slightly different shades of silver. I could return them if unhappy but I would end up eating all shipping costs including shipping originally paid. I expressed concern with this and so they started a hunt for 5 wheels not already finished, which they could gather up to one location, then do their work on all at once so they would all look consistent. They located 5 wheels within a few days and refinished them over the last 3.5 days. All at no additional charge vs what I paid originally.

They shipped today and I'll get them Sunday. Not too bad at all. Hopefully they look good.

Are they painting them silver or putting a clear coat on the steel?
 
Are they painting them silver or putting a clear coat on the steel?

As far as I know, they strip them down and repaint them silver with clear. The styled steel wheels are originally silver (or really called Argent) from the factory. My understanding is this company restores them back to that the best they can.

I just hope they do good work and that the paint holds up. If not, I'll probably get them powder coated in a similar color later down the road. Also probably keeping my TJ wheels just in case, but will sell the tires off of them at a minimum.
 
My Canyons came to me like this:

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It looks ok, but I stripped and refinished the spare with clear only. Getting a new Geolandar A/T4 on the rim tomorrow.

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I haven’t decided whether to strip the remaining 4 wheels. I’ll wait and see how you like the Original Wheels.
 
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My Canyons came to me like this:

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It looks ok, but I stripped and refinished the spare with clear only. Getting a new Geolandar A/T4 on the rim tomorrow.

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I haven’t decided whether to strip the remaining 4 wheels. I’ll wait and see how you like the Original Wheels.

I love the canyons, I just wish they were 15x7. Or I wish they offered them in both. With them being 15x8 I feel like 30x9.5 is proper, but I don’t want to run 30x9.5 anymore since I’m stock height. Lots of give and take, so it just felt right to go back to what my YJ originally came with. But I’m not at all against paying for powder coating if the paint job sucks.

I definitely like the original Canyon look over the black job. I don’t really like dark wheels at all, though.
 
I’ve been happy with the 30x9.5. With ~2” of lift it seems like the “just right” size. 30x9.5 would still fit on 15x7 rims if I ever went that route, right? Or do they have to have the 8” width?
 
I’ve been happy with the 30x9.5. With ~2” of lift it seems like the “just right” size. 30x9.5 would still fit on 15x7 rims if I ever went that route, right? Or do they have to have the 8” width?

Yeah, if I still had lift that would be my go-to size.

They’ll work fine on 15x7. They actually are better mated to a 15x7 wheel. Jeep used 15x8 because it kept the same steering geometry and it allowed proper fitment to prevent rubbing with 30’s and proper fitment on the tire carrier.

15x7 stock wheel with 30x9.5 doesn’t fit very snug on the tire carrier with the thin bumpers, and it’s too tight with the thicker bumpers. And that combo does rub the sway bar and leaf springs without adjusting steering stops. None of it a big deal, but more to deal with.

30x9.5 on 15x8 should fit the tire carrier perfectly with the thick bumpers, and I’m not sure about rubbing leaf springs or sway bar. Do yours rub? Since it’s a TJ combo only, it could potentially still rub, although less likely than 15x7.
 
No rubbing anywhere with the 2” springs. I took it to Hidden Falls a couple weekends ago and flexed it out as much as leaf springs allow, and no rubbing.
 
No rubbing anywhere with the 2” springs. I took it to Hidden Falls a couple weekends ago and flexed it out as much as leaf springs allow, and no rubbing.

Yeah, the wider wheels help with that on the TJ, I assume same applies to the YJ. It’s just enough to make them not rub. Shouldn’t matter on spring height, rub mainly is hitting any spring or the sway bar. With the wider wheels you must just barely be clearing, because I am already very close to clearing but slightly rub, with the 7” wheels.
 
Weather has been poor here, with random rain, and so I haven’t made much progress with the Dana 35. It’s been torn down, and put back together partially so that the housing is sealed in order for me to clean the exterior. I don’t know when I’ll get to doing that, hopefully in the next few days.

I had the front disassembled again because I learned that the ring gear bolts are too tight. As I mentioned previously, the spec is 70-90 ft lbs, but that is severely stretching a 3/8-24 bolt. So I spent last night disassembling the front and got the ring gear bolt holes cleaned up and degreased, as well as the carrier bolt holes and the new bolts I ordered. Torqued those this afternoon to 55 ft lbs and used red loctite, so I should be good now. Reassembled the axle and filled with gear oil.

I drive it around the neighborhood for probably 30 minutes, just up and down a few streets and alleys over and over. Man, I’ve missed driving this thing. Even if the handling still isn’t perfect (working on that, mostly braking), it is fun to drive. It’s just so small. It’s torquey down low but I forgot how anemic it is when speeding up mid range lol. It’s not bad, but not amazing.

I have a squeak where the tailpipe hanger piece rubs the hanger bracket that is bolted to the frame. I might see about removing the tail pipe and taking it to a muffler shop or welder to cut it off and move it half an inch forward.

The throw out bearing squeak I thought I had seems to be gone, so maybe I’m good on that now.

Brakes definitely need lots of attention. Hope to bleed them tomorrow.

Still need to assemble much of the interior, but I’m Joe doing that until I’m really on the road. Doing that will handle lots of the noises, rattles and such.

I let it sit in the driveway and idle for quite a while. Honestly, the engine sounds great. It still runs a little funkily as it always has, but I’m not too worried about that. I’m just gonna let it run for a bit and see if I ever want to mess with changing anything.

If I can go to the tax office and renew it again soon (been too long to do it online), then I’ll hopefully have it road legal soon and can actually fill it up with fresh gas and take it on the road.
 
Worked on my neighbor’s dodge today, which was a new brake booster and master cylinder job. Not fun, not terrible. It went well enough that after the fact, I felt motivated to bleed the brakes on the YJ, so I drove it into the neighbor’s garage and had him help just as if it was a continuation of working on his truck.

Afterwards, the pedal felt better, but still not right. I could stop with some enthusiasm finally, but it definitely still was nowhere near where it needs to be.

I learned that my brake booster pushrod adjustment tool is junk. It’s the type that you butt up to the MC, set depth, then put it on the booster and adjust booster pushrod until it fits the tool setting. Problem is, the center adjustment piece is too long, which is inevitably making the booster pushrod adjusted too far inwards.

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This leads to lots of pedal free play and wastes precious pedal travel. Set up this way, the pedal didn’t do anything at all for over an inch of travel.

I didn’t like my painted master cylinder…the paint was proving to be a mess. I should have known better since brake fluid is at a high risk of running down the sides during service, but I painted it anyways. Wanted that out of my life and so I bought another MC from AutoZone, and bench bled it and installed. Now, my neighbor and I will bleed it again, maybe tomorrow. The pedal seems a lot more firm now with the engine off than it was before. Maybe now I’m finally in business, once the wheel brakes are bled? We will see.

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One other thing new is that I learned the TJ pitman arm I’ve been using is actually not the correct height. It has about 1/2” less drop than the YJ model, so it was holding the drag link up a bit. Dug my factory pitman arm out of the bucket of old parts and reinstalled it. I don’t remember why I even am using a TJ arm, I think because at one point when I deleted the lift, I needed a new stock one and couldn’t find mine anymore. Well, now I found it and so that is swapped back. Drag link is nearly 100% flat now…nice. Matches the front track bar perfectly.

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The drag link is part of the linkage that came on this front axle I bought, which the guy had installed a 4.5” Rubicon Express lift. So, the drag link is too long. I think that is part of the poor handling, because when the steering gear is not in the “steering-wheel-straight” position, it wants to provide assist. I’ll try to adjust that tomorrow, hopefully that helps tremendously with poor handling feel. Which again, isn’t too bad, but it still doesn’t feel right. I really don’t think I’m expecting too much. Mainly, it’s still a bit of a handful to drive, and I haven’t even taken it up to decent speeds yet, so I feel it’s reasonable to say it’s still not right.

I am hyper sensitive to poor steering…it is my number one complaint over all the years. The initial lift is what started it all, years ago. Getting back a normal steering feel is a huge part of why I’m going back to stock, and doing so with very little leniency. I’m really hopeful all the little things truly make the difference and bring this thing back to life and not be a handful to drive.
 
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Wheels have arrived. I think they look fantastic. Paint quality seems good. Obviously we have yet to know how it holds up to brake dust and being washed off, but we’ll see.

They’re heavier than I expected. I don’t know what I expected, it’s a steel wheel. They are about 24.5 lbs, about the same as the 15x7 alloy equivalents. I guess just based on the lightweight 15x6 9-slot steel spare I bought, I was expecting these to not have any heft too. The extra inch of width must add some weight. No big deal. Overall with the 32 lb tires I plan to run, it will be right at 56.5 lbs.

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Yeah, the wider wheels help with that on the TJ, I assume same applies to the YJ. It’s just enough to make them not rub. Shouldn’t matter on spring height, rub mainly is hitting any spring or the sway bar. With the wider wheels you must just barely be clearing, because I am already very close to clearing but slightly rub, with the 7” wheels.

At full lock I have almost an inch clearance from the rear of the tire to the spring and well over an inch from the front of the tire to the spring. About 3/4” to the sway bar.


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At full lock I have almost an inch clearance from the rear of the tire to the spring and well over an inch from the front of the tire to the spring. About 3/4” to the sway bar.


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Yeah, seems right since you have the wider wheels. I rub the right leaf with the back of the right tire at full lock.

I used to hear that 30x9.5 would hit the sway bar, and so I repeated that, but that was without context. Turns out that happens when using the stock 9 slot steel wheels, which are 15x6. They have the same 5.25” backspacing as the 15x7, but the tire bulges much more with the 1” narrower rim width, and so it hits the sway bar and the leaf springs with those wheels. Even 235/75 will rub on those wheels.

I am probably going with 235/75, but I am still undecided. Part of me wants to keep the stock theme and go with 215s. But they do look really small. But, being a KO3, they might actually look fine with the aggressive appearance.
 
Since you’re going to stock height you’re probably not planning to tackle big obstacles. I think an aggressive tread might look out of place, plus create more road noise than necessary. Why not look for something with a similar tread to the original tires? Do you know what kind of tires it came with? Maybe look at the old marketing brochures and pick a similar tread pattern?

Like here’s a brochure for a ‘97 TJ; it’s just a couple years newer than yours and it’s a pretty street-friendly tread.

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I’ve considered it, but I really don’t like the way the stock tires look. They highlight the small appearance of stock tires, and look somewhat bald/bland. The all terrains I’m looking at aren’t too bad on noise and they look a lot better.

I actually will be taking it on some trips, but nothing crazy. Mild, entry level trails and such.

Here’s a Suzuki Jimny with 215/75R15 KO2s. I think it looks decent while maintaining the stock design but not looking boring like stock tires.

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