Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler YJ shifters

What did you do to your YJ today / lately?

Got my cheap resistors from Amazon. First tried 10,000 ohms from the 1/2 watt kit. Was still too bright. Went straight to 100,000 ohms and found it very nice. Not bright at all, just enough for me to see that the switch is on and help me feel for the switch in the dark. That should be perfect. I may play with 40,000 or 60,000 ohms just because, but I think it's gonna be good right where it's at.

Thanks @jeepjoe43! Big help with this. Now that I have decided this will work, I can proceed with ordering more of these switches (one in each color: green, blue, amber, already have red obviously) and can finally wire it up. Should be a simple crimp and heat shrink once I cut the resistor legs down to short, reasonable lengths.

Thinking the colors will be as follows:
Amber - fog lights (since fogs are also amber)
green - daytime running light cutoff
blue - driving lights (tied to high beam which has a blue indicator above the steering wheel)
red - backup lights

Onwards and upwards!

With 100K ohm 1/2-Watt resistor on the switch indicator ground:

IMG_1496.jpeg


With no resistor on the switch indicator ground:

IMG_1497.jpeg
 
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machoheadgames said:
Got my cheap resistors from Amazon. First tried 10,000 ohms from the 1/2 watt kit. Was still too bright. Went straight to 100,000 ohms and found it very nice. Not bright at all, just enough for me to see that the switch is on and help me feel for the switch in the dark. That should be perfect. I may play with 40,000 or 60,000 ohms just because, but I think it's gonna be good right where it's at.

Thanks @jeepjoe43! Big help with this. Now that I have decided this will work, I can proceed with ordering more of these switches (one in each color: green, blue, amber, already have red obviously) and can finally wire it up. Should be a simple crimp and heat shrink once I cut the resistor legs down to short, reasonable lengths.

Thinking the colors will be as follows:
Amber - fog lights (since fogs are also amber)
green - daytime running light cutoff
blue - driving lights (tied to high beam which has a blue indicator above the steering wheel)
red - backup lights

Onwards and upwards!

With 100K ohm 1/2-Watt resistor on the switch indicator ground:

View attachment 118646

With no resistor on the switch indicator ground:

View attachment 118647
Click to expand...
Very Nice results, without the resistor that light IS obnoxious.
Glad I could be of help to you, for a change.
 
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jeepjoe43 said:
Very Nice results, without the resistor that light IS obnoxious.
Glad I could be of help to you, for a change.
Click to expand...
Yeah, very happy with the results. Just need to get some longer heat shrink as my precut pieces are too short.

Funny about the brightness of that light. In some of the reviews on autozone, at least two people commented how awesome the switch is because it's indicator is bright and how it's cool and lights up their interior. I guess some people have different priorities, I hate super obnoxious stuff like that.

And of course I have a semi related anecdote to add. 2-3 years ago I bought an Amazonbasics surge protector from well, amazon. Saw decent stars on the summary page so I ordered it. The "protected" status light was this extremely bright green light, illuminated the whole wall behind my tv/entertainment center. Sure enough I go to the reviews to see if anyone complained about it, and there are multiple reviews talking about what an awesome cool green light it has. sometimes I just don't get it. I guess not everybody thinks the same way.
 
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If you don’t need heat shrink any smaller than 1/4 in diameter, Genuinedealz is the place I go for marine grade electrical connectors. They sell heat shrink by the foot in many colors and it is adhesive lined dual wall. Quarter inch is $1:59 ft and shipping from them is still free, I just checked. The connectors that they carry are also top quality, as good as Anchor in my opinion, at a fraction of the price.
 
ytradio said:
If you don’t need heat shrink any smaller than 1/4 in diameter, Genuinedealz is the place I go for marine grade electrical connectors. They sell heat shrink by the foot in many colors and it is adhesive lined dual wall. Quarter inch is $1:59 ft and shipping from them is still free, I just checked. The connectors that they carry are also top quality, as good as Anchor in my opinion, at a fraction of the price.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the suggestion. I ended up ordering from WireCare last night. Unfortunately I do end up needing smaller than 1/4" a lot of the time, of my current pre-cut kit from Amazon, I have used up all of the 3/32 and 1/8 pieces, and quite a few 3/16 as well. WireCare goes down to 1/8 so I bought 16 feet of that, 3/16, and 1/4. Did have to pay shipping which was $8 but oh well. Hopefully don't have to buy heat shrink again for a long time. Buying kits certainly wasn't worth it because I ended up with 10 different sizes and only used the smallest 3 or 4 of them, rendering half the box useless indefinitely.
 
Genuinedealz is also a great place to get custom battery cables made. You specify the color, gauge, connectors, and they make them up with the crimped on ends you want. Also all of the wire and cable they carry is marine grade, fine stranded tinned copper with soft high grade insulation, very flexible.
 
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The Pic is kinda dark but It looks like its sitting on the frame backwards. The notched part is for the rollers up front. BTW for whatever reason a couple of plates Ive bought in the past placed the roller to high IIRC and the cable could or would drag over the edge of the plate potentially messing the cable up. Just saying to look out for that one.
 
I was wondering the same. Wasn't sure if the pic was too dark for me to see the fairlead mount points up front, but looking closer (on my computer now, was on phone earlier), looks like there are bolt holes towards the grille that would be for the fairlead mount. So yeah it may need to be flipped around.

Doop, what mount did you end up ordering? I forget if you linked it before but I'm curious.
 
I bought thw Quadratec brand. I think it was about 70 to 80 dollars.

I tossed it on to see the fit real quick. I didnt pay attention.

This is how it looks:

20211015_084740.jpg

It was a bit frustrating. I put the winch plate on and torque it down along with the fairlead. I place the winch on top and the holes are so close to the bumper there was no way I could screw the hex bolts in...so sigh... I take the winch plate off and bolt the winch on the plate and then install the whole assembly on the front.

20211015_084753.jpg20211015_084756.jpg

I coudlnt find torque specs for the winch bolts, so I did 35ft lbs. The plate bolts were 75 ft lbs
 
Errrr...I meant the roller was to low putting the center of the plate lip about 1/3 of the way onto the roller opening. I think on one if used a plasma to remove 1/2" and another I just raised the roller with new holes. So yep, what brand winch you buying and BTW if I recall you'll have to remove the plate again to install a winch as the 2 front bolts are gonna be impossible to get in unless you notch the bumper, at least on the ones Ive bought. ?? Being a cheap mOfO Ive run a Superwinch tigershark 9500 and a Smittybilt 10K with good results. There all good until they dont work anymore I recon.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler YJ shifters
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