My 93 Restoration Project
- Thread starter SirDoopYJ
- Start date
It has been two weeks since I drove it. But I am taking my time so I don't get aggravated. Getting to the ball joints was no joke, the worst part was removing the inner axle shaft. Thanks again Machoheadgames for the tips on removing it.
Ball joints are done and all is put back to together. As of right now I have all the tie rods, drag link, and damper removed. I had a hard time getting the damper off. I banged the part of my elbow on the bottom of my leaf spring, and it feels like I chipped a piece of cartilage lol.
I went ahead and ordered a new Monroe damper and bought JKS sway bar quick disconnects. I hope to have everything installed Friday morning, so I can still get an alignment. It is hard not being able to drive it lol.
Ball joints are done and all is put back to together. As of right now I have all the tie rods, drag link, and damper removed. I had a hard time getting the damper off. I banged the part of my elbow on the bottom of my leaf spring, and it feels like I chipped a piece of cartilage lol.
I went ahead and ordered a new Monroe damper and bought JKS sway bar quick disconnects. I hope to have everything installed Friday morning, so I can still get an alignment. It is hard not being able to drive it lol.
Man I know the feeling on not driving it. I haven’t driven mine besides a handful of times for nearly 4 years now. I’m FINALLY getting finished with all the little changes that will make it desirable to drive often again.
Don’t sweat it, you’re making progress and should be good to drive again soon. As for the elbow, welcome to YJ world. I think I get a new injury every time I work on mine lol.
YJcharlie
Member
That's actually pretty cool, and a good idea. I need to do the same and have been thinking about different ways to do the same.
Hi buddy, I see that you have a lots of experience. I am also thinking about buying wrangler YJ, here are some pictures. Can you tell me what do you think
Flyer58
YJ Enthusiast
Flyer58
YJ Enthusiast
Hey bud, I wouldn't say alot of experience lol. I just started with Jeeps this past October. The Yj you show looks pretty nice.
What year it it? How is the interior and the frame underneath?
My JKS Sway bar quick-disconnects came in this week. I am going to try to get to those soon.
Not sure if I should go ahead and replace the shocks or not. I saw in another post that EMU is the way to go.
Not sure if I should go ahead and replace the shocks or not. I saw in another post that EMU is the way to go.
Forgot to share these, I think the second picture looks prettier. This will probably be the last time I take it out in the mud. It is not fun to wash off.
maddvector
Member
Very nice project!
Here is the link for the rear disk brake modification.
wranglertjforum.com
Here is the link for the rear disk brake modification.
ZJ Grand Cherokee rear disc brake conversion parts for Wrangler TJ
What year ZJ’s work for this conversion? From what I have found it’s 93-99, is the ZJ the only model to rob from and still maintain 5 X 4.5? I have an 06 with a Dana M35. Does the parking brake still work? Thanks new to the Jeep world. Any ZJ Grand with disc brakes in the rear up through...
It has been awhile since I updated my build thread, but boy o boy do I have some stories.
Chapter one - Draining Automatic Transmission Fluid
It sucks! THE END! But no, seriously. Why is there no frickin drain plug on the frickin pan?!
This story starts off back in March when I came home from a trip and noticed my Jeep was discharging a little extra fluid underneath the skid plate. I figured maybe the gasket was done and thought about giving a gasket change a try. I also decided to do it without removing the skid plate.
So, in order to drain the fluid you must:
1. Jack the Jeep up in the rear so that the fluid escapes the pan going forward so that it doesn't go towards the skid plate getting it all covered in the oil
2. Have a big water heater pan placed below
3. Remove all the bolts except for two in the rear and one in the front
4. Start loosening the rear bolts and then loosen the front
5. Fluid should start draining
Unfortunately, my pan still had the original cork gasket and was sealed pretty good and the pan was not budging. I hammered the pan like crazy with a rubber mallet, but nothing. Now as I am typing this, this probably should have told me that my leak was not coming from the gasket.
I took a break, got back down and hummed the chorus Michael Jackson's Beat It as I hammered the crap out of my pan. And my god, when the pan dropped it went everywhere. Good thing for the water heater pan that I found in my Gramp's shed.
It is not over yet though. I still have to remove the front bolt and drain the rest of the fluid that rests in the bottom of the pan. The pan hold about 2 quarts. I got most of the fluid out. I removed the rest of the bolts and went to drop the pan. You can't just "drop" the pan though. Not when you have the skid plate still attached. You have to finagle it somehow forward where the bell housing stops you and then go 45 degrees towards the driver side where it barely grazes the front drive shaft and exhaust pipe.
At this point I am covered in fluid and just want to get this done.
Changing out the filter was the easiest part. It is just 3 small torque head screws, remove filter, add new filter, and then torque back in the screws.
Next, I cleaned the oil pan. There was a good collection of metal shavings near the magnet. I am not sure if it is a normal amount or how recently this started.
Clean pan. I am not sure what happen to the gasket surface though. It was already like this.
I went with the Duralast rubber gasket because it came with the combo filter. Normally, I would have bought a Fel-Pro. I put some RTV on the pan surface and some on top the gasket. It is possible I put too much, and later on you will find out why. At this point I am ready to install my pan back on and yep, I have to finagle it back in. As I move between the exhaust and drive shaft I accidently run some of my gasket on the drive shaft. This was probably no-no #2. I get my pan on and proceed with installing the bolts and then torque them in one by one in a start like pattern. I then filled her up with some ATF+4 and for automatics you have to fill them up through the dipper tube that sits on the firewall in the engine bay. Just make sure you have a long neck funnel. Once you get it close to the safe line, you start the Jeep and move the PRND stick through Reverse, wait a moment, Neutral, wait a moment, Drive, wait a moment and then back to neutral. Set the parking brake, check the dipper again and fill until you are in the safe zone. You may have to do this a couple of times or even drive up and down the road.
Now here comes the funny part. You remember when I mentioned I may have put too much RTV and no-no # 2? Well something stupid happened. A couple of days later I walk outside to tend to the Jeep and
...Son of a Biscuit...
I forgot to take a picture I was so frustrated. You all have seen the original Saw movie where the main villain is pretending to be dead in the pool of blood? Well yeah that pool of blood is the transmission fluid and my Jeep is wanting to play games with me.
I have to do all of this nonsene a second time...and it didn't really get any easier.
When I dropped the pan. I had RTV sucked on the filter and the corner of my rubber gasket ripped somehow in the rear corner. I am not sure if it moved when I bumped it on the driveshaft and got ripped on the bolt. I torqued the bolts to FSM spec of 150 INCH lbs. so it couldn't have been that.
I bought another Duralast combo, because that was the only way I could find a filter and bought a Fel-Pro gasket. I also followed the FSM more closely and it never mentioned adding RTV. So this time I just placed the gasket and put a couple of bolts in to hold it in place as I finagle. Torqued it down and filled her up again.
So far so good, but as of today I am still leaking somewhere. It has to be a seal on output shaft to the transfer or the cooling lines. If I end up having to pull the transmission out for any reason. I will be doing my manual conversion earlier than expected.
Chapter one - Draining Automatic Transmission Fluid
It sucks! THE END! But no, seriously. Why is there no frickin drain plug on the frickin pan?!
This story starts off back in March when I came home from a trip and noticed my Jeep was discharging a little extra fluid underneath the skid plate. I figured maybe the gasket was done and thought about giving a gasket change a try. I also decided to do it without removing the skid plate.
So, in order to drain the fluid you must:
1. Jack the Jeep up in the rear so that the fluid escapes the pan going forward so that it doesn't go towards the skid plate getting it all covered in the oil
2. Have a big water heater pan placed below
3. Remove all the bolts except for two in the rear and one in the front
4. Start loosening the rear bolts and then loosen the front
5. Fluid should start draining
Unfortunately, my pan still had the original cork gasket and was sealed pretty good and the pan was not budging. I hammered the pan like crazy with a rubber mallet, but nothing. Now as I am typing this, this probably should have told me that my leak was not coming from the gasket.
I took a break, got back down and hummed the chorus Michael Jackson's Beat It as I hammered the crap out of my pan. And my god, when the pan dropped it went everywhere. Good thing for the water heater pan that I found in my Gramp's shed.
It is not over yet though. I still have to remove the front bolt and drain the rest of the fluid that rests in the bottom of the pan. The pan hold about 2 quarts. I got most of the fluid out. I removed the rest of the bolts and went to drop the pan. You can't just "drop" the pan though. Not when you have the skid plate still attached. You have to finagle it somehow forward where the bell housing stops you and then go 45 degrees towards the driver side where it barely grazes the front drive shaft and exhaust pipe.
At this point I am covered in fluid and just want to get this done.
Changing out the filter was the easiest part. It is just 3 small torque head screws, remove filter, add new filter, and then torque back in the screws.
Next, I cleaned the oil pan. There was a good collection of metal shavings near the magnet. I am not sure if it is a normal amount or how recently this started.
Clean pan. I am not sure what happen to the gasket surface though. It was already like this.
I went with the Duralast rubber gasket because it came with the combo filter. Normally, I would have bought a Fel-Pro. I put some RTV on the pan surface and some on top the gasket. It is possible I put too much, and later on you will find out why. At this point I am ready to install my pan back on and yep, I have to finagle it back in. As I move between the exhaust and drive shaft I accidently run some of my gasket on the drive shaft. This was probably no-no #2. I get my pan on and proceed with installing the bolts and then torque them in one by one in a start like pattern. I then filled her up with some ATF+4 and for automatics you have to fill them up through the dipper tube that sits on the firewall in the engine bay. Just make sure you have a long neck funnel. Once you get it close to the safe line, you start the Jeep and move the PRND stick through Reverse, wait a moment, Neutral, wait a moment, Drive, wait a moment and then back to neutral. Set the parking brake, check the dipper again and fill until you are in the safe zone. You may have to do this a couple of times or even drive up and down the road.
Now here comes the funny part. You remember when I mentioned I may have put too much RTV and no-no # 2? Well something stupid happened. A couple of days later I walk outside to tend to the Jeep and
...Son of a Biscuit...
I forgot to take a picture I was so frustrated. You all have seen the original Saw movie where the main villain is pretending to be dead in the pool of blood? Well yeah that pool of blood is the transmission fluid and my Jeep is wanting to play games with me.
I have to do all of this nonsene a second time...and it didn't really get any easier.
When I dropped the pan. I had RTV sucked on the filter and the corner of my rubber gasket ripped somehow in the rear corner. I am not sure if it moved when I bumped it on the driveshaft and got ripped on the bolt. I torqued the bolts to FSM spec of 150 INCH lbs. so it couldn't have been that.
I bought another Duralast combo, because that was the only way I could find a filter and bought a Fel-Pro gasket. I also followed the FSM more closely and it never mentioned adding RTV. So this time I just placed the gasket and put a couple of bolts in to hold it in place as I finagle. Torqued it down and filled her up again.
So far so good, but as of today I am still leaking somewhere. It has to be a seal on output shaft to the transfer or the cooling lines. If I end up having to pull the transmission out for any reason. I will be doing my manual conversion earlier than expected.
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MURICA!
F-4 Phantom off of Interstate 12. I see this on my way home from work everyday. Had to take a picture while it still has its somewhat patriotic paint scheme.
F-4 Phantom off of Interstate 12. I see this on my way home from work everyday. Had to take a picture while it still has its somewhat patriotic paint scheme.
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Hi I live in MN and bought a Jurassic YJ and stripped all that off and sold. I have nearly new green carpet remaining. Hasn’t sold due to shipping cost. If u r interested, I’ll be very fair. Ed 612-366-0602
maddvector
Member