My 93 Restoration Project


SirDoopYJ

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1993 Automatic 4.0L Inline 6 with 175,000 miles.

It was really tough finding a decentish YJ with a 6cyl. I wish it were a manual, but it was hard being that picky too. Found this Jeep 8 hours away from me for $3500.It was a steal considering I found many others in worse condition for $5,000. The owner who sold it held it for me and facetimed up and down the Jeep before we made the drive. My dad and I towed it back home and have begun working on it. Now I am officially a Jeep owner with my first Jeep.

Completed so far:
Removed nasty wet carpet, washed and dried out tub.
Bought green half doors
Fixed broken temperature gauge
Bought Bestop soft top w/hardware (still need to attach hardware)
Changed out Oil Pressure Switch (It was leaking a good bit of oil, still and oil leak somewhere though)

I bought this YJ because I love the square light (I blame Jurassic Park) and I love the simplicity and ruggedness of this vehicle. I also wanted something to fix up and teach me some skills along the way. I found it interesting that this one in particular was originally owned in Hawaii and ended up in Arizona and then Tennessee.

There is still a great bit of things to do to this Jeep before I get it to where I want it and I only have so much income flowing at once lol.

Planned so far:
Get 4x4 working (Vacuum tubes are disconnected and all over the place, currently researching fix)
Sand rust from tub and spray
Replace passenger side sway bar ( driver side has a quick disconnect while pass doesn't. I would think you would want it on each side)
Replace all ball joints
May need to replace steering shaft
Troubleshoot horn (not working)
Replace Tailgate
Replace female end driver side seatbelt (Hard to find)
Replace seats (Not priority)
Repaint (Not priority)

New things are popping up everyday.

Thanks for reading. I will be updating as I go! May take years.

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ShawnM

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Oliver BC
Have fun! I spent a couple month this spring farting around with my ‘94 and the results are awesome. Fingers still sore from the 30+ cans of spray paint!
 
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SirDoopYJ

SirDoopYJ

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Haha yeah, I am not sure when that was. The owner I bought it from replaced the hood because it had so much bondo on it, but he said it was an entire flag on the hood. I am not sure what I want as far as a paint job. The more I invest in it I am sure I will figure it out.

@ ShawnM: What spray paint did you use? You have any progress pictures of yours? Thanks.
 
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SirDoopYJ

SirDoopYJ

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Alright, where were we?! I haven't kept up with my journal as much as I should be. I did get alot of pictures though.

Fixed my oil pressure sensor. It was leaking a good bit of oil.

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SirDoopYJ

SirDoopYJ

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Next, I did some research on how the vacuum system worked the 4x4 system. I was not familiar with 4x4s, never owned one, so I watched bunch of videos. My vacuum lines were cracked and removed. I wanted to start off with using the vacuum system even thought I was told that it is a losing battle with it. I bought more tubes, located the transfer control switched and mapped where the vacuums should go based on diagram below. 4x4 works and it felt pretty awesome figuring it out.

My sensor light on dash was turning on with 4x4 engaged and turning off when in 2H, but now my sensor light won't turn off. My 4x4 still engages and disengages though. I can feel it and can tell when I turn the wheels. I will come back to this another time. I may try to install an older gauge cluster that has the clock :)

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machoheadgames

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Next, I did some research on how the vacuum system worked the 4x4 system. I was not familiar with 4x4s, never owned one, so I watched bunch of videos. My vacuum lines were cracked and removed. I wanted to start off with using the vacuum system even thought I was told that it is a losing battle with it. I bought more tubes, located the transfer control switched and mapped where the vacuums should go based on diagram below. 4x4 works and it felt pretty awesome figuring it out.

My sensor light on dash was turning on with 4x4 engaged and turning off when in 2H, but now my sensor light won't turn off. My 4x4 still engages and disengages though. I can feel it and can tell when I turn the wheels. I will come back to this another time. I may try to install an older gauge cluster that has the clock :)

View attachment 116606
I don't want to talk down on your progress here but if the light is staying on, 4x4 is not working properly. The light remaining on means the fork is staying locked on the axle. What you are feeling that tells you your 4wd is working is the transfer case applying and removing power at the front driveshaft. If the light remains on though, the vacuum system isn't working properly. You probably got some of the hoses backwards which aren't properly moving the fork back and forth depending on engine vacuum or lack thereof.

I still say gut that crap, and convert to the TJ 1-piece passenger shaft with an electronic switch for the light. Works so much better.
 
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SirDoopYJ

SirDoopYJ

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I don't want to talk down on your progress here but if the light is staying on, 4x4 is not working properly. The light remaining on means the fork is staying locked on the axle. What you are feeling that tells you your 4wd is working is the transfer case applying and removing power at the front driveshaft. If the light remains on though, the vacuum system isn't working properly. You probably got some of the hoses backwards which aren't properly moving the fork back and forth depending on engine vacuum or lack thereof.

I still say gut that crap, and convert to the TJ 1-piece passenger shaft with an electronic switch for the light. Works so much better.
Oh no, anybody and everybody feel free to respond. This thread isn't just for me.

Hmmm, hopefully I haven't damaged anything, I have been driving it around doing more than 50mph.

Yeah I have seen the axle swap, the posi-lock, and I saw another one, I think it was the CAD? I am new to all of this and 4x4 in general. I would like to see how it is on the trail first though.

Have you done the TJ swap on yours?
 

machoheadgames

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Oh no, anybody and everybody feel free to respond. This thread isn't just for me.

Hmmm, hopefully I haven't damaged anything, I have been driving it around doing more than 50mph.

Yeah I have seen the axle swap, the posi-lock, and I saw another one, I think it was the CAD? I am new to all of this and 4x4 in general. I would like to see how it is on the trail first though.

Have you done the TJ swap on yours?
No it wouldn't have damaged anything at all. Essentially all I'm saying, is that if the light is on, then the fork is slid over, locking the two piece axle into a one piece axle. Essentially you are basically set up like a TJ when that collar is slid over locking the axle shafts together. One easy way to tell would be let the jeep idle down the road, hop out, and peak underneath and see if the front driveshaft is spinning. If it is, then the front axle shaft is locked. When the vacuum system works properly, the front driveshaft will not spin in 2WD. The 4X4 light also will not be lit up of course. That light runs directly off of the front axle disconnect (CAD - Central Axle Disconnect) so if the light is on, then the fork is slid over, engaging the axle shaft. meaning the vacuum system is not operating the fork properly. But definitely no worries about damage. You can get back to messing with it any time with no worries.

The CAD is the name of that setup in the front axle. The TJ axle swap eliminates the cad by getting rid of both passenger axle shafts, putting a seal at the passenger side of the diff, and then using cover plate (block off plate) to seal the CAD box on the axle tube. The posi basically takes the responsibility of the vacuum system and puts that responsibility on you by you operating the fork with a cable. Not the worst solution, but I've never seen much reason to go that route. There is another route called the perma lock or something like that. It is basically a hybrid between posi-lock and the TJ shaft. It permanently slides the fork over and locks it in place. Then you rework the electrical so the light only works in 4WD. It's similar to the TJ shaft in that you permanently have a ready-to-go axle shaft, my issue with it is it's weaker than a TJ shaft with the collar setup, and IMO the proper way to go is to just do the TJ shaft and get rid of all the mess in the axle. But it is a solution.

It will be fine on the trail as it is currently, you have full functionality while your fork is stuck in the locked position.

Yes, I did the TJ swap last year. TJ shafts, Napa 11800 seal for passenger side of diff, TJ 4x4 switch mounted to the transfer case, took the wiring from the axle and rerouted and extended it to the new switch on the transfer case. Light comes on instantly in 4LO and 4HI. Works perfectly.
 
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SirDoopYJ

SirDoopYJ

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No it wouldn't have damaged anything at all. Essentially all I'm saying, is that if the light is on, then the fork is slid over, locking the two piece axle into a one piece axle. Essentially you are basically set up like a TJ when that collar is slid over locking the axle shafts together. One easy way to tell would be let the jeep idle down the road, hop out, and peak underneath and see if the front driveshaft is spinning. If it is, then the front axle shaft is locked. When the vacuum system works properly, the front driveshaft will not spin in 2WD. The 4X4 light also will not be lit up of course. That light runs directly off of the front axle disconnect (CAD - Central Axle Disconnect) so if the light is on, then the fork is slid over, engaging the axle shaft. meaning the vacuum system is not operating the fork properly. But definitely no worries about damage. You can get back to messing with it any time with no worries.

The CAD is the name of that setup in the front axle. The TJ axle swap eliminates the cad by getting rid of both passenger axle shafts, putting a seal at the passenger side of the diff, and then using cover plate (block off plate) to seal the CAD box on the axle tube. The posi basically takes the responsibility of the vacuum system and puts that responsibility on you by you operating the fork with a cable. Not the worst solution, but I've never seen much reason to go that route. There is another route called the perma lock or something like that. It is basically a hybrid between posi-lock and the TJ shaft. It permanently slides the fork over and locks it in place. Then you rework the electrical so the light only works in 4WD. It's similar to the TJ shaft in that you permanently have a ready-to-go axle shaft, my issue with it is it's weaker than a TJ shaft with the collar setup, and IMO the proper way to go is to just do the TJ shaft and get rid of all the mess in the axle. But it is a solution.

It will be fine on the trail as it is currently, you have full functionality while your fork is stuck in the locked position.

Yes, I did the TJ swap last year. TJ shafts, Napa 11800 seal for passenger side of diff, TJ 4x4 switch mounted to the transfer case, took the wiring from the axle and rerouted and extended it to the new switch on the transfer case. Light comes on instantly in 4LO and 4HI. Works perfectly.
I will look into the axle swap more when the time comes. From what I saw and read it was the best and most reliable one of everything you can do to replace the vacuum system. About how much did it cost you to do everything? Are there many axles left to pull from TJs?
 
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SirDoopYJ

SirDoopYJ

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When one project turns into a bunch. I always believed to have ADD.

My original goal was to replace my lower steering shaft. I started unbolting the grille and realized a hell of alot more had to come off at the same time lol. I had trouble trying to install the steering shaft, so I had to remove the left fender as well...and of course everything had to come off the fender. I think the worst was the reservoir tanks, my god, never again.

Luckily, this was good because I found some nasty rust spots that I could take of, and I went ahead and drained the coolant and flushed my radiator and engine.

I was without my Jeep for two week. I was addicted to driving it and the itch was there picking..

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machoheadgames

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I will look into the axle swap more when the time comes. From what I saw and read it was the best and most reliable one of everything you can do to replace the vacuum system. About how much did it cost you to do everything? Are there many axles left to pull from TJs?
Yeah it’s the most simple, most reliable, and eliminates a lot of the factory junk which is why I consider it to be favorable. All the options work, this one in my opinion works the best. No rush, you can do it whenever.

So you have some options on shafts. YJs 94 and prior use small u-joints. You can get a passenger side one piece axle shaft from an XJ from I believe 92-95 and it would have the small u-joint to match your driver side. You could get any TJ or any 96+ XJ shaft and it would have the big u-joint. Would work fine, but I wanted my shafts to match on u-joint size. I found a TJ in the junkyard with both shafts left. Took them both, I think I paid $80 for them.

So for my cost:
$80 for shafts
$20 for Napa 11800 seal
$15 for 2 Quarts of Gear Oil
$25 J8134473 Chrysler T-case switch
$20 block off plate from G2
$50 for new Spicer 760x u-joints

So $200-250 for me. Took a few hours to get it all done. Not a bad install, just time consuming. Getting the nasty u-joints out of the junkyard axle shafts was by far the worst part.

I was able to find a few TJs and lots of XJs. Either would work. You could also just buy shafts from eBay if that suits you better.
 
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SirDoopYJ

SirDoopYJ

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Grinded this rust off clean and prayed rust eliminator from Rustoleom. I had to replace bushing, washers and bolt for the grille mount. It was bad.

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SirDoopYJ

SirDoopYJ

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Yeah it’s the most simple, most reliable, and eliminates a lot of the factory junk which is why I consider it to be favorable. All the options work, this one in my opinion works the best. No rush, you can do it whenever.

So you have some options on shafts. YJs 94 and prior use small u-joints. You can get a passenger side one piece axle shaft from an XJ from I believe 92-95 and it would have the small u-joint to match your driver side. You could get any TJ or any 96+ XJ shaft and it would have the big u-joint. Would work fine, but I wanted my shafts to match on u-joint size. I found a TJ in the junkyard with both shafts left. Took them both, I think I paid $80 for them.

So for my cost:
$80 for shafts
$20 for Napa 11800 seal
$15 for 2 Quarts of Gear Oil
$25 J8134473 Chrysler T-case switch
$20 block off plate from G2
$50 for new Spicer 760x u-joints

So $200-250 for me. Took a few hours to get it all done. Not a bad install, just time consuming. Getting the nasty u-joints out of the junkyard axle shafts was by far the worst part.
Awesome, I appreciate the help and info on two 3 threads at once lol. I will see what I can find as far as shafts. I am not sure what Jeep junkyards are near me. I think they have a few dedicated ones in TX. I went to one in Memphis seeing what I could find and everything was pretty much gutted.
 
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machoheadgames

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Awesome, I appreciate the help and info on two 3 threads at once lol. I will see what I can find as far as shafts. I am not sure what Jeep junkyards are near me. I think they have a few dedicated ones in TX. I went to one in Memphis seeing what I could find and everything was pretty much gutted.
Lol, no problem. Since you can get shafts from XJs also it shouldn’t be an issue. And eBay is still an option too. I got my shafts from Belton wrench a part, but that’s a long drive from Louisiana.
 
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SirDoopYJ

SirDoopYJ

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Lol, no problem. Since you can get shafts from XJs also it shouldn’t be an issue. And eBay is still an option too. I got my shafts from Belton wrench a part, but that’s a long drive from Louisiana.
ahaha, yea that is a pretty good distance. Looks about 10 hours for me. I been looking on Facebook marketplace. I have been finding some gems on there. I have been using car-part.com as well, most stuff I find are too far away though.
 
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SirDoopYJ

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While I waited for parts to come in, I started messing with the radiator and thermostat. I flushed out my radiator, all looked good inside and the fins are still pretty good on the body itself, after debating to buy a new one, I decided to keep the original.

I removed thermostat. There was a new 195*F installed already installed. I felt my temps were too hot. My gauge would read 210*F sometimes a little over, I could feel the heat on my feet through firewall. Every now and then, my thermostat would open and my temps would read between 190*F and 210*F. While my thermostat was off, I went ahead and flushed my engine. Flushed 7 times Pretty much clean.

I purchased a 180*F. The Autozone guy sold me on the Fail Safe brand, I was in the moment and went ahead and purchased before doing my research. I also went ahead and installed it before doing my research. I was nervous putting on the RTV stuff with gasket. I put on a little bit, installed it and that was that. Watched a video from JeepSolid, He put way more than what I did, I got nervous and did everything again. At this point I started thinking more about the Fail Safe. I decided to look more online about it. I found a forum where everything said it was the most bullshit piece of crap you could buy. It would lock at normal temps and people struggled getting their vehicle to temperature.

Back to autozone.. I bought maybe my 4th gasket from these guys within two days and bought a regular ole 180*F thermostat. I installed it with RTV to perfection.

My temps now look like they are reading too low and it seems my thermostat opens up before reaching 180*F. My gauge is new and so is the temp sensor. So idk. I am tired of replacing gaskets. I will add more to this later posts

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