OEM sensors vs aftermarket sensors

[Flyer58]

I just went through this while fixing a Jeep Patriot and found continuing codes after using and replacing various sensors several times.

After going to the local dealership the service manager said don't ever use aftermarket sensors on these Patriots because the computers will often not recognize them. The OEM sensors worked perfectly for just a slightly higher cost but worth all the time wasted.

So how does that work for the YJ? Are OEM sensors still available? If so, that's where I'm going.

 

[redbullet]

I just went through this while fixing a Jeep Patriot and found continuing codes after using and replacing various sensors several times.

After going to the local dealership the service manager said don't ever use aftermarket sensors on these Patriots because the computers will often not recognize them. The OEM sensors worked perfectly for just a slightly higher cost but worth all the time wasted.

So how does that work for the YJ? Are OEM sensors still available? If so, that's where I'm going.

I have not found new OEM anything for the yj lately. For sensors, I have gone with autozone as they have a lifetime warranty. No issues with any after several years.

 

[Flyer58]

local dealership the service manager? Like asking COKE maker who makes the best Cola. (wow)
so you forgot, to tell them 30 year old car? oops. or...
or he / she is too young ever see this car? So he gave the classic default answer,

did you tell him mopar/ chrystler pages are blank (sensors) 1993?
some dealers only go to down 1997 or 2001, I see, (texas) most even show a blank screen for 93.
speed sensors yes, but none told. just the sensor word.
but they are on strike so..... who knows what. ?

Like I mentioned that sensor problem was in a 2010 Jeep patriot and I made several trips to NAPA and others when chasing sensor issues. The biggest problem was they were not allowed to clear codes to see if the problem was solved without driving XX miles and have XX start and cool cycles. Their code readers will clear the codes, depending on how well you know the parts person, but only to a certain level. It's won't clear the historical codes unless you buy the the $1000 reader with a monthly subscription for updates. The friendly local dealer did it three times for me at no charge trying to help me out. Clearing all codes was easy but if they needed to re-flash the computer it would cost me.

As for the recommendation for OEM vs Autozone/Amazon/... I got that from the dealer service manger and three other professional mechanics who work on and curse the Patriot. I asked the dealership parts guy for an old man discount and it ended up being just another $5 over the cheapys.

What I'm trying to do is help others avoid wasting time and money on the ping pong brand sensors thinking they'll save money. Like you say just spend the extra $ and go with a know manufacturer and be done with it.

I find Dorman has a lot of love/hate opinions. I've used them for years without any issues except one time when I called them out on their brake Speed bleeder screws with the valves inside. The package said speed bleeder but the product was just a regular bleed screw. I got in a very heated argument with the customer service guy and we both agreed what the difference is between the two but he couldn't get it in his head that their packaging was wrong and every one on the shelf had the wrong screw inside.

 

[Flyer58]

MK74 built on

Mitsubishi GS platform​

not the electric version right, and 4 engines, which engine.?

what DCT errors were you chasing, what devices (sensor) were suspected?

all real scan tools 1996 to now, the reset, DLC button erases all stored codes, I have 10 scanners here from 1996 to now. and all work on all cars.
exceptions.
(well not my 96' scanner on say 2008(up) cars, with can-bus networks. (not invented yet 1996 or in USA yet) fails,
I have new scan tools for those, 2008 to 2023 made.
even the top INNOVA does this, and factory codes too. a $300 tool.

I do not understand this word, NOT ALLOWED at all, above.????? who or what/?
sure some lame tool company's do that, the tool is a PAyWALL DEVICE, never wise that.

is that love hate from random users or you./ (never read opinions say in amazon, they are folks clueless ,)
most users rag in a product, for 1 reason, guessing it was bad, say a sensor and so again is the new one. (called barking up the wrong tree, to any tech)
the OBD2 class covers all that, tells you some errors are false and why.

I can name 100 scan tools sold over the counter now, that will reset your 2010 OBD2 car. endless choices. the tool must be 2008 or newer.(and be listed
stated as can-bus certified.
also some cheap tools will not do advanced, Jeep (or GM /FORD) codes, like P1, P2, P3xxx codes or Bcodes or Ucodes, mine can.

why ask any dealer that question ever,/?? they are like parrot, repeating the party line, endless ,forever.



in fact most car parts buys are not about money at all its about DOWN time for folks that work, (not me)
what you buy is your call, pain and costs.
why not just post a problem that is hard to solve.

It's a (edit) 2008 Patriot Ltd. with a 2.4 engine and CVT transmission 2WD. I think the only other engine for that year was a 2.0 but I'm no expert. The friendly local parts stores all say the same thing that they can't clear the codes and I believe that's a corporate policy but also based on some state regulations because it can hide problems from the customer which may still exist. Some parts stores will just hand you the reader while others must check codes for you. Autozone has one that checks your codes and then when they hook it up to their system it prints out a four page document explaining each code and what parts may help resolve it. Good sales gimmick but not always correct or specific. Everything I read online about disconnecting the battery and shorting the battery cables while holding one leg in the air and closing one eye didn't work. The code history is still there and the State inspectors will find them. This time the CEL came on a day prior to the inspection and days before the tag expired so it was a time crunch.

If I bought or borrowed most cheap code readers they will let me clear the codes to possibly extinguish the Check Engine Light but that may only last for two seconds if the fault still exists. With the Patriot there are different levels of historical codes saved in the memory. Even though I had "someone" clear my codes the dealership was able to bring up ABS brake faults from two years ago when the sensor failed and was fixed. They cleared all codes and said most other parts store code readers can't clear the deep memory codes.

I don't have the receipts here but I think my problem codes were bank 1 & 2 cam sensors a temp sensor that was out of range. I was able to exchange the parts store sensors for replacement ones under warranty but not get my money back. When they didn't work I went OEM and bingo... problem solved.

I too laugh at the product comments. "I hat this part because UPS took three weeks to get it to me" or "This part is so awesome I bought one for my wife".

 

[Flyer58]

My mistake, 2008 Patriot.

This started with a CEL associated with an intake air leak/possible throttle body air leak. I can't recall which code it was. I sprayed intake cleaner around the the injectors which caused the engine to stumble and also around the intake manifold to head gasket and it too had leaks.

Long story short the, the injector O-rings were brittle and an intake manifold support bracket lost a supporting bolt which allowed vibration of the manifold and wear and warping around the edges of the by the intake gasket. The manifold gasket to the head was one dry crispy critter.

I replaced the plastic intake manifold and throttle body since that usually the most common problem along with new injector O-rings. It was one of those "Since I'm in here I might as well" replace the sensors, some of which are more difficult to get to. That's when the sensor issues started. While unplugging the oil temp sensor the guts came out of the housing as I pulled off the plug. Turns out the sensor still worked and I guess I could have JB Welded it back in place but I went with the OEM after the cheap ones failed.

As a side note, just like comments, don't trust every youtube video you see either. Many are wrong and some are flat out dangerous.

 

[Flyer58]

just did my 08 wrangler 3.8L for the same reason, intake off, never use JB weld, epoxy does not belong here. ever. this hot.
SMP sensors are just great. never had one fail ever."maker" same with NGK.NTK/ and Bosch.
sure dealer parts if near by sure. never from zoned, durafail. parts. ever. go to NAPA, not zoned.
I never replace sensors unless they fail. ( or good way to have 3 more failures not deserved)_
yes they are super easy to damage,
btw, GOOD LUCK there.
one way to get a good scan tool is get the whole family to kink in. bucks to the scanner kiddy.
shared. (even help them diagnose the car ,even save $1000 shop labor not needed) DIY

I did look into the Autel and a few others but I wasn't going to spend the $500 on one to fix a car my son owned and might sell soon. This is more of a money saving hobby for me and this point and keeps my off the streets. The YJ is like a big old tractor, plain and simple. I did find a used professional scanner but it needed a code which the seller didn't have. I guess it's a security measure in case someone steals the shops tools and that's were I found a reference to a monthly subscription for updates when flashing a chip. This was a while ago and I've since flushed most of that research.

All good advice for me and others who follow. Thanks!

 

[DOWNS]

I can't speak for a more modern Jeep but the "OEM sensors are your best bet" thought process applies to most older Jeeps as well. The dealer still carries a some of our old sensors but if you can find NTK/NGK sensors on RockAuto they are who made most of the older 90s era Jeep sensors so you can kind of go OEM without actually having a Chryco logo stamped on it.

Not sure what company makes modern Jeep sensors, but if you do a bit of digging around on Google you might find an answer.

 

[DOWNS]

If you actually go to the dealer parts department in person, they can still sometimes find OEM parts for my 95 XJ and YJ. I was able to find a few sensors this way less than a year ago. But the supply of said OEM parts is certainly drying up.

Most of NAPA's sensors are reboxed Standard Motor Products sensors marked up to NAPA prices. Take that chance if you want to. NAPA used to be my go to for lots of parts, but nowadays, they're selling the same crap the other big box parts stores are but charging you NAPA prices.

 

[DOWNS]

Take a deep breath, man, you seem to be getting pretty worked up. NAPA parts aren't magical. Standard Motor Products isn't exactly known to be cream of the crop parts, especially their sensors. I'm sure they're CAPABLE of making good parts to OEM specs but Stardard Motor Products branded stuff (or any FLAPS branded SMP stuff) is usually the last resort for me when I can't find something like DELPHI, or NGK/NTK.

SMP
SMP HAS MANY BRANDED PARTS, HERE ARE SOME./

None of those brands instill confidence I'll actually get a long-lasting quality part. At least not to me.

A lot of what NAPA sells is the same things the other FLAPS are selling, but you're paying for that NAPA box they may be packed in. That used to not be the case, but NAPA has just become another FLAPS. They're not special.

when I said sensors , i meanT EFI, not tranny

Never used the word "tranny" in my post. Like I said it was almost a year ago (Jan of this year) but they were able to locate and get me IAT, both coolant sensors, and an oil pressure sensor within 10 minutes of typing on their computer. Mopar Branded in their original packaging.

 

[Gilaguy23]

Cant speak for NOS jeep parts that have been on the shelf for years waiting a buyer but, most of the guys over at the TJ side complain about the OEM parts they just bought and that the package now says Mopar, made in China. That being said Id stick to NTK, NGK, Standard, Blue Streak or a couple others. Echlin or whatever Napa sells IMO has always been junk from the bottom of the barrel maker(s)

 

[ytradio]

This is one reason that I have chosen to stick with the carb on my old 89, no sensors to go bad. It has basically been turned into an older AMC 258 non computer vehicle. If I do decide to go FI it will probably be with a Holley setup. The OEM EFI is getting old enough that the support is dwindling. I do have to admit though that the two Cherokees that I had with it performed flawlessly while I owned them.

 

[T-Rex Jeepster]

I said not tranny sensors because...... sorry so late saying why!
that means , if you went to 20 jeep dealers online
there are no EFI parts now 87-95 . zero ,zip, no ADD CART ,DIG?
but some do have tranny speed sensors. (due to trannyS used for newer cars the same is why) VSS REAR OF TRANSFER CASE SURE.
NOT EFI parts. they have none,
now if you walk into 100 dealers , and ask them for EFI sensors 1995 sure they may be there all dusty NOS on the shelf. sure,
this topic is 1992 YJ, what parts you buy is your call, AND YOUR SHOE LEATHER.