Issue with front and rear blinkers

machoheadgames said:
Yeah I highly doubt battery is the issue here.

So you checked the starter solenoid wire (the small wire coming from the jeep harness to the starter post) and it had no voltage at all when turning key to crank? If not, then yeah probably an ignition switch issue. Because in that case the Jeep would not be telling the starter to activate.

I'll be curious to see how the ignition switch swap works out. Unless you have a critter eating wires (doubt it), then I bet it will fix the issue.

FYI, starter wire voltage can also be tested at that square plug near the PDC. The ignition wire for the starter runs through that plug and down to the starter.

You also may have a bad starter relay. Have you tried putting the horn relay in its place?
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Yea, I have replace the relay, good chance that relay is bad too, because my horn doesn't work either. I have every problem at once lol.

I also did the hammer trick, by hitting the starter while someone cranked. Nothing.

My biggest issue for tomorrow so far seems to be trying to lower the steering column to get to the switch itself.

Edit: What is PDC?
 
SirDoopYJ said:
Yea, I have replace the relay, good chance that relay is bad too, because my horn doesn't work either. I have every problem at once lol.

I also did the hammer trick, by hitting the starter while someone cranked. Nothing.

My biggest issue for tomorrow so far seems to be trying to lower the steering column to get to the switch itself.

Edit: What is PDC?
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Did you try the fuel pump relay in the starter spot? Maybe the starter relay in the fuel pump to see if you lose fuel? They’re also pretty quick to buy at a parts store worst case. Easiest way to see if your horn relay is bad is unplug the horn and click the horn button. If you hear a click, the relay is working and so is your horn button and the horn is just dead. If you hear no click, you either need a new relay or the horn button isn’t grounding the relay properly.

I’d suggest finding a known good relay and trying it in the starter spot (and horn spot when you get around to fixing the horn).

PDC is the power distribution center. The rectangular box full of relays and fuses in front of the battery. There is a big cube shaped plug connecting the PDC to the engine harness. That plug has the starter solenoid wire in it. The same wire you didn’t get 12V from when you flipped the key to crank.
 
I changed the ignition switch. Still nothing. I tried my AC relay, horn relay and nothing. I tried the fuel pump relay and swaped it with the others. I hear the click up front and no fuel pump sound. So M Fer it might be that I have 3 bad relays up fronts.
 
Do this at your own risk. Here is a diagram I saved for jumping the fuel pump relay when I'll drain the fuel tank or in your case test the pump. This should be what you see on your YJ.

1.png
 
SirDoopYJ said:
I bought a new starter relay. Still nothing. I guess it is the solenoid or connections?
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I just started thinking about the fact that you have an automatic. Are we sure your neutral safety switch is working properly? That will fully prevent trying to start. You might try starting in park, drive, neutral, and reverse each. Even if none of those work, it may be time for a new switch. I can’t think of anything else and it would make sense since you said you jumped the solenoid with a screwdriver and it worked.
 
I am not sure. I tried starting it in park, reverse, neutral, drive, 2, L. Still nothing.

I will go through the wiring tomorrow and make sure nothing is fried or eaten. I still don't how to attack this. it is going to be hard to trace the wires underneath the cowl. I am also going to double check to see if I am getting volts now since I changed my ignition switch.
 
SirDoopYJ said:
I am not sure. I tried starting it in park, reverse, neutral, drive, 2, L. Still nothing.

I will go through the wiring tomorrow and make sure nothing is fried or eaten. I still don't how to attack this. it is going to be hard to trace the wires underneath the cowl. I am also going to double check to see if I am getting volts now since I changed my ignition switch.
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Yeah check for voltage at the starter ignition wire just to see. And just because it wouldn’t start in any position, doesn’t necessarily mean the neutral safety switch isn’t bad.

If you flip the key to battery and put the trans in reverse, do the reverse lights light up? The neutral safety switch controls those too.
 
machoheadgames said:
Yeah check for voltage at the starter ignition wire just to see. And just because it wouldn’t start in any position, doesn’t necessarily mean the neutral safety switch isn’t bad.

If you flip the key to battery and put the trans in reverse, do the reverse lights light up? The neutral safety switch controls those too.
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I didn't know about the reverse lights. Man, learning so much lol. I will defiently check that. Safety switch is in stock at autozone as well so that is good incase I do need it.
 
SirDoopYJ said:
I didn't know about the reverse lights. Man, learning so much lol. I will defiently check that. Safety switch is in stock at autozone as well so that is good incase I do need it.
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Yeah the reverse lights could possibly tell you something about that switch. And it’s a relatively easy replacement if your tests are inconclusive, so hopefully you can figure it out either by replacement or testing.

I looked at the diagram for the neutral safety switch (also called park/neutral position switch). When trans is in reverse, the inside of the switch connects pins 1 and 3 to feed the backup lights.

What I also learned is that the switch is case grounded. When you put the trans in park or neutral, it provides a ground for the starter relay.
 
When the connection for the NSS was ready to say hello while looking for it. I couldn't help but laugh when I saw this. Looks like this may be the problem.

Sigh...

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SirDoopYJ said:
Yea. Must have pulled off when I got stuck in the mud or a stick. I put it back on, and the Jeep starts now. It doesn't take much to unplug it though
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Glad to hear it fixed it. Might want to look into splicing on a new connector and getting a new switch. Should get nice and tight again.
 
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