Dana 35 question

Bnd4Drt

Bnd4Drt

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Okay.... I'm trying to discover exactly what my gear ratio is. I've got a stock 95 Sahara edition. I checked the tag on the flange of the rear diff and it's got a sequence of numbers that don't seem to mean anything (to me anyway):
2068850
07 5662-1
Can anyone make any sense of that mess?
Thanks!
 
You probably over looked the 3 in front of 07 for 3.07. Usually difficult to read and possibly covered up by gunk/rust.
 
Well look at that.... It looks like the bottom bit of a 3 under that mount corner!
THANKS a ton!
3.07 seems really high.... And I just bought 33" tires to put on once I get my lift kit and get it installed.... Now to figure out what my new ratio should be.....
By what I've been able to figure out it looks like 3.55 should put me back to close to stock, but if I'm gonna wheel should I go lower like 3.73?
Thanks again!

PXL_20230720_194123592~2.jpg
 
Yep, thems 3.07s. Terrible ratio.

Auto or manual?

If manual, I’d honestly go with 4.88 for 33’s. If auto, 4.10. I wouldn’t choose 3.73 or 3.55 for anything 33.
 
Damn.... That low eh?
Well I've got a manual.... That's gonna be a big difference!
I want to weekend drive this thing... 4.88 wouldn't make it too low for freeway driving?
 
Bnd4Drt said:
Damn.... That low eh?
Well I've got a manual.... That's gonna be a big difference!
I want to weekend drive this thing... 4.88 wouldn't make it too low for freeway driving?
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2800-3000 rpm at 70-75. Drives great. The 4.0 does well with rpm.

4.56 would also be decent. 2600-2800 rpm at 70-75. Equivalent to a TJ Rubicon that had 4.10s and 30.5” tires. But I’d prefer the bit extra gearing of 4.88.
 
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machoheadgames said:
2800-3000 rpm at 70-75. Drives great. The 4.0 does well with rpm.

4.56 would also be decent. 2600-2800 rpm at 70-75. Equivalent to a TJ Rubicon that had 4.10s and 30.5” tires. But I’d prefer the bit extra gearing of 4.88.
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Thanks for the info! I'll start looking into the gearing and at least a rear locker.... Right now I'm leaning OX but again... I'm open to any suggestions. 😁
 
Bnd4Drt said:
Thanks for the info! I'll start looking into the gearing and at least a rear locker.... Right now I'm leaning OX but again... I'm open to any suggestions. 😁
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My only problem with Ox is that it requires the lever and cable, though they do have air and electronic methods of actuation these days I believe. On the front axle, the large Ox diff cover can be a problem because the steering is close and usually an issue.

The Eaton Elocker is a good quality option on both the Dana 30 and 35. I wouldn't lock the rear axle unless you swap to a Dana 44 or Ford 8.8, or beef the Dana 35 up to 30 spline axle shafts with a Super 35 kit. Ox makes a 30 spline locker for the Super 35.

I'd skip out on ARB these days, they can be problematic. Not all of them are, and often problems are due to setup, but some still have air leak issues even when set up properly.
 
$4669 from ECGS delivered and ready to bolt in brand new Dana 489 35 spline with Ox locker and 488 gears. That’s all set up and ready to go. Price all the parts for you Dana 35 and see how big the difference is. The 489 will be vastly stronger. In my opinion that is more bang for the buck.
 
ytradio said:
$4669 from ECGS delivered and ready to bolt in brand new Dana 489 35 spline with Ox locker and 488 gears. That’s all set up and ready to go. Price all the parts for you Dana 35 and see how big the difference is. The 489 will be vastly stronger. In my opinion that is more bang for the buck.
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All in, gears and such with a Super 35 is usually around $2500. About $1200 for the locker, around $300 for shafts, $500-1000 for parts and labor on the gears. A lot of folks scoff at putting that money "into a 35" but it really does strengthen up the axle where it matters. It was in my plans for years until I decided no locker and wanted a TrueTrac. I even bought and eventually sold the shafts and locker.

No doubt the 489 would be super strong but he's also only on 33's. Not saying it's a bad choice, but way overkill for 33's. Though yeah the bolt in aspect is nice. Not saying he should go one way or the other, just trying to help elaborate the differences.
 
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machoheadgames said:
All in, gears and such with a Super 35 is usually around $2500. About $1200 for the locker, around $300 for shafts, $500-1000 for parts and labor on the gears. A lot of folks scoff at putting that money "into a 35" but it really does strengthen up the axle where it matters. It was in my plans for years until I decided no locker and wanted a TrueTrac. I even bought and eventually sold the shafts and locker.

No doubt the 489 would be super strong but he's also only on 33's. Not saying it's a bad choice, but way overkill for 33's. Though yeah the bolt in aspect is nice. Not saying he should go one way or the other, just trying to help elaborate the differences.
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Oh yes I agree. But if that is where it stops, and you know how it is ,33’s then 35’s and so on and so on.
 
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Typically, on Jeeps of this vintage you get with 4.0 or 4.2..........3.07 with a manual, 3.55 with an auto, some rare tow package models get 3.73 but mostly 3.55 on those too.

With a 2.5L you get 4.10 across the board.
 
DOWNS said:
Typically, on Jeeps of this vintage you get with 4.0 or 4.2..........3.07 with a manual, 3.55 with an auto, some rare tow package models get 3.73 but mostly 3.55 on those too.

With a 2.5L you get 4.10 across the board.
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It's interesting the ratios discussed over the years. My YJ 4.0 5-speed had no factory tow package or anything special (it was just a plain SE) but it did have factory 3.55 gears and 215/75R15 27's. I still have yet to see a 4.0 have 3.73 in a YJ from the factory. I do know that starting with the 1998 TJ, 3.73 became the new optional ratio for 4.0s and replaced 3.55 completely. It was optional for Dana 35's, and came automatically on all Dana 44s.

I have noticed that most 6 cyl manual YJs are 3.07 and most autos are 3.55, but there are an odd number of outliers for no real reason. Must have just been some dealer or customer orders would be my guess. My YJ was a Colorado bound one, so maybe it got the gears for some mountain assistance.

I do know the 2.5L got 4.10s for manual and 3.73 for auto, but the auto wasn't even available until 1994 anyways so automatic 2.5 YJs barely even existed. As usual, Jeep is overall pretty inconsistent.
 
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Just my opinion:

It's a jeep not a track car. If you're going through the trouble and expense of a regear, just install the lowest gears possible and be done with it. Gear the thing like a tractor. 4.88s are good, 5.13s are better if you can get away with it.

Add lockers and/or lsd and go jeepin'!

mine has 4.88s.
With the 31" tires, it will rum 75mph all day long.
Its a 4 banger, on the 33s. It's harder to get it to 75, but it will do it.
I have never once wished I had taller gears. Quite the contrary.
It's your jeep, be realistic with what you're gonna do with it, and build it accordingly.
 
Ya, I get it won't be a track car.... But I want this to be a jeep I can drive through town or to the trail. I wanted to make sure it would be road worthy with gearing that low I was afraid it might not be drivable on the freeway. I appreciate you sharing your experience and it sounds like 4.88 won't be too low a gearing judging from it. I feel like I need to find a place to call an end to the build and wait to see if/when something breaks. At that point it becomes another project!
I see this jeep as a way to get back out on the trails.... I grew up riding dirt bikes but am too old (or too smart) to keep that up. I'm also hoping it's something the wife can enjoy with me (the trails, not the projects). 😁
 
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