Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler YJ radiators

Brand advice for suspension, tie rods, ball joints, etc.

It's a slight press fit into the knuckle. Some go in easier than others, but they almost always require using the bolts to pull it all in. Depends on how much rust was there to begin with, that adds to the press fit and makes it even more snug. I figure you probably got it done by now though.
 
machoheadgames said:
It's a slight press fit into the knuckle. Some go in easier than others, but they almost always require using the bolts to pull it all in. Depends on how much rust was there to begin with, that adds to the press fit and makes it even more snug. I figure you probably got it done by now though.
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Im having trouble removing the inner axle on driver side with a bolt. The joint is oriented in a way that doesnt turn towards axle.

20210119_112847.jpg
 
Lol. I was wondering if you had already tried that and if there was something more serious keeping you from being able to spin it. Thankfully not. No big deal though, that sort of stuff happens all the time when I'm working on my rigs.
 
It is pretty dirty down the tubes of the axles, but looks pretty clean beyond the seal. The passenger side inner axle shaft came out pretty clean as well. I accidently hit the top of the tube with the driver side inner axle when pulling it out, so I wiped off as much grit as I could off the gears. I didn't really bother cleaning in the tubes, I figured why, if later down the road I may do an inevitable axle swap.

One concerning issue with the brakes. As I was removing the bolts for the caliper, the brake line was in the way for my wrench to get to. I moved the line just a tad out the way to remove the bolt. I noticed that when I had it hanging on a strap out of the way, it was dripping when the line starts at the bolt on the caliper. It may have dripped 5+ times before I noticed. I moved the line back the opposite way to tighten it back up. I may have to torque the bolt some, but the leak stopped. Will this create an air bubble in the braking system to where it is not as effective in braking?
 
machoheadgames said:
Lol. I was wondering if you had already tried that and if there was something more serious keeping you from being able to spin it. Thankfully not. No big deal though, that sort of stuff happens all the time when I'm working on my rigs.
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Lol no, just my first time on my own learning how to be a diy mechanic on a vehicle.

I forgot to put my key in to unlock the steering wheel at one point doing this and thought, my god this hub is sealed shut... and then it clicked..
 
SirDoopYJ said:
It is pretty dirty down the tubes of the axles, but looks pretty clean beyond the seal. The passenger side inner axle shaft came out pretty clean as well. I accidently hit the top of the tube with the driver side inner axle when pulling it out, so I wiped off as much grit as I could off the gears. I didn't really bother cleaning in the tubes, I figured why, if later down the road I may do an inevitable axle swap.

One concerning issue with the brakes. As I was removing the bolts for the caliper, the brake line was in the way for my wrench to get to. I moved the line just a tad out the way to remove the bolt. I noticed that when I had it hanging on a strap out of the way, it was dripping when the line starts at the bolt on the caliper. It may have dripped 5+ times before I noticed. I moved the line back the opposite way to tighten it back up. I may have to torque the bolt some, but the leak stopped. Will this create an air bubble in the braking system to where it is not as effective in braking?
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I’d agree with the first paragraph. Shouldn’t really be an issue especially if you cleaned the dirt off of the splines of the shaft you accidentally bumped into the tube wall.

For the brakes, I’d do a quick gravity bleeding of that caliper. The leaking lime probably let some air into the caliper itself. I’d mount the caliper, crack the bleeder screw, open the master cylinder cap, and let the fluid run through it for a minute or two. Close the bleeder, put back the master cylinder cap, and it should be fine. Sounds like whoever worked on brakes previously didn’t tighten the bolt enough, because it should never leak like that.


SirDoopYJ said:
Lol no, just my first time on my own learning how to be a diy mechanic on a vehicle.

I forgot to put my key in to unlock the steering wheel at one point doing this and thought, my god this hub is sealed shut... and then it clicked..
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Hah, at least no harm done and problem is solved.
 
Are the upper ball joints pregreased too? I didnt screw in the grease fitting and as I was torqueing the bolt on the knucle grease started coming out the grease fitting hole.
 
SirDoopYJ said:
Are the upper ball joints pregreased too? I didnt screw in the grease fitting and as I was torqueing the bolt on the knucle grease started coming out the grease fitting hole.
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Should be, but they are a style that the grease can work it’s way out over time (I think), which is why they have the fitting so you can grease it once every few months or so. Personally, I never greased my stockers and they were 20 years old when I bought the Jeep and 23 when I swapped them out. They were still working fine and I only swapped them on principle, not need. So it’s not really that critical.


SirDoopYJ said:
And what are these for? Came with the ball joints.

View attachment 116877

View attachment 116878
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Preload spacers for the knuckle on a 1990 and prior. You can toss them, you have no need and will never have a need for those. They only include them to make the part fit more applications.
 
Pitman arm tie end connection suppose to look like this? It was the only way I could get it one even though all my measurementa from the previous were the same

20210129_153936.jpg
 
I have everything back on. Put it in 4L to get out of shed. It is sloppy and I didnt want to get stuck create ruts.

Took it for a test drive and as I started revving I hear a ka clunk ka clunk ka clunk. I turned back home. Bout to have my dad see underneath as I drive.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler YJ radiators
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