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Are you having issues with the factory seats? I find that the stock seats are a much better fit than anything aftermarket I’ve seen. Almost guaranteed - adapting anything to the factory brackets will sit too high. Aftermarket seats are almost always 2-3” thicker in the cushion making them...

I’m assuming you meant either 4.11 or 5.13 gears. 5.13 would be a bit deep but wouldn’t cause any issues. 4.11 with 33’s honestly isn’t enough gearing in my opinion…I’d want 4.88, but 4.11 works well enough when options are limited. If the seller insists on 5.11, ask them to clarify and show...

Glad they seem good. They were very soft on mine. In hindsight, I probably should have kept them, but I wanted the correct length for stock height. I like the Bilsteins too, but they are definitely more stiff and kind of bounce over things.

I'm not the guy you quoted originally....looks like he has Corbeau seats. I have stock seats, which are shown in the photo I just posted, and I still have them but they are covered with Bestop seat covers now. Console mostly sits where it's supposed to, but it's a bit of a pain to get it...

That looks like original position to me. Here is a pic of mine from years ago with stock seats. I always found the armrest to be at a mostly decent height.

The only good quality option I’ve seen is a Tuffy. They definitely look utilitarian but they’re useful. For a 91-95 you’ll want the 6.5” as the seats are close together.

Pretty certain that isn’t from any other vehicle and is just an aftermarket seat made for Jeeps. Maybe Smittybilt or Bestop.

Rough Country supplies a shim on the leaf packs that is more geared towards SYE and double cardan shaft usage in my experience. My 2.5" springs from years ago (purchased January 2014) came with a 6 degree shim and for a 4.0 5 speed that worked out perfectly for an SYE and DC shaft setup. The...

Black and orange one wire or two wires, a black and an orange? Orange is usually dash illumination but I don’t recall any dash illumination locations using a spade connector like that. Only connection I know of spades is for some door switch wires and the blower motor. Definitely none of that...

The big ones are for rear window wiper/washer and fog lights. The smaller ones I’m not 100% but I think possibly for the heater control (blower motor power). The connectors look like they are for that, however the color of the wiring is weird. Does each connector have two wires or is it just a...

Just to clarify a bit, switch on the front axle operates a ground circuit. The bulb in the cluster always receives a 12V ignition power source, and the axle switch grounds the bulb when in 4WD. But yes, jumping the terminals will tell if there is a problem with the switch.

Ordered and received the Tom Wood’s shaft. Looks like nice quality. I like how they use a full size 1330 u-joint and not the conversion type. Interestingly, they use a 2” tube instead of the factory 2.5” tube. I imagine they do this because it’s simplest for them, as they build tons of shafts...

They all have the 4WD light. The 4WD light in stock form does not turn on until the CAD fork in the front axle housing moves over and engages the right side axle shaft. So you likely have a problem pertaining to that system.

It’s correct as is….other than maybe the orientation of the plug. Sometimes they are backwards, I forget what correct orientation is. But there is nothing special to cap off the third port or anything that.

Fog lights have been remounted. Not sure if I’ve said it before but these are the now discontinued Gravity G4 fog lights in amber by KC Hilites. I previously had these on my Warn bumper, which had holes for lights already drilled. I set the wiring to the proper length for that application...

I’ll be interested to see the video but without that I’m going to guess you’re fuel is running back into the tank and so the time cranking is spent pumping fuel back to the engine, which takes a few seconds.

It’s the hornet hood lock, and it’s not any easier than a kill switch to install. You install a relay that plumbs into the starter wire, much like a kill switch would. They don’t make them anymore and I can’t find any on eBay, so I don’t really have a link.

If they really want it, they’re just going to drag it onto a trailer and haul it away anyways. However, I do have a hood lock cable that disrupts the starter when active, as a deterrent.

The blower and such and hot/ambient blend will still work if you disconnect the vent cable. You just won’t have a choice to control the vent function.

Cig outlet.