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But a new sensor does no good if there's no place to connect the wires to. Do you see an unused plug hanging down on the left side? I don't know anything about the 2.4 TBI system as my 92 has 4 injectors.

Most of those plugs with a Torx (star shape) head will be holding a spring and ball in place which keep the transmission in gear when driving. I think mine had a copper washing to seal it. If yours in tight, it should not leak. I bought a set of Torx drivers for less than $10. Same type...

Coat the o-ring with Vaseline or even motor oil and you'll find the FPR easily slides in. Also, make sure the metal cup it goes into is clean and there's no residue. Clean it with a q-tip.

How's the frame look where the springs attach? Did the axle shift sideways much?

Thanks, I've been driving since the mid 70's and don't recall any key coming out. I need new door locks for my full door so I may buy a matching ignition key too.

I never noticed this before yesterday, but I can remove the key from the ignition switch in the accessory/run position. I do need the key in the switch to turn the switch from OFF to run/start but not to turn it off. Is this normal? Can you remove the key with your engine running? I have...

Did you flip the brights back on and see if it will start? Strange that all happened at that time.

Once I realized that nut was actually a lock nut and I should have turned it the other way before breaking the knob off, I was able to remove the nut and threaded stud from the knob. Then I just welded the threaded part back on the shift lever. Can't find the pics and too cold to run out to...

Shop around for a Crowfoot wrench. Buy the sheapest one you can find in the area.

Did it run OK before this? Did you change or replace anything else?

Remove the bolt before assembling them together. The bolt may been stopping it from sliding all the way on. The groove in the shaft is where the bolt needs to be so it won't slide off. Just like a PTO shaft on a tractor.

What size wheels and tires ? Look down the throttle body (engine off) while someone floors the gas pedal and make sure the throttle plate is fully opening. It normally does need much in the lower gears to accelerate.

Depending how old the float is inside the tank, it could be flooded with gas and not floating as high as it should. Mine did that and I tried draining and resealing but that didn't last.

Makes me thing it's heat related. Are all the manifold bolts torqued to spec? No cracks?

Wipe down the oil pan with degreaser or alcohol until it's clean and dry. Go for a short drive and check again for leaks and it's origin. I've seen leaks start at the front of the engine and oil blow back to the very end. It may even be from up higher like the valve cover or timing cover.

As part of the restoration, did you rebuild the engine or have any major components of?

Does this video look like it may help? Mine is a different set up

Those look like diodes, not capacitors. See if this helps. I hope it's the right video

I slightly bent the two male pins to make a better connection. That solved my problem.

Maybe up to 14 with stock tires on flat ground.