Body Mounts on Rusty 93

[Brian]

Okay, I have procrastinated long enough! All my mounts are without bolt or the bolts are so rusty I don't think a socket will fit them. I have seen some U-tube videos that I don't like and most are body off. I don't have the resources to pull the body, so looking for any advise prior to starting this project.

Next issue I am ready to replace seat covers (already have them). Normally I would pull the old ones off, but then I wondered if there would be any value in just covering over them? Again I appreciate any words of wisdom.

Last, My jeep has "Rock Guard" rails bolted to the frame. I don't need or want them. The jeep is lifted and I am short so I have to throw myself up into the seat. What I would like is to go back to OEM whatevers that cover the quarter panels (there is a series of holes for something). I will figure some kind of step later., What was the OEM that was there and where can I get it.

 

[Gilaguy23]

Ouch on the body mount bolts. I suppose you should start soaking them down with a good penetrate. I for one dont think much of the over the counter stuff like PB and that kinda of stuff. Working at a water plant on the coast rust was the #1 killer and PITA. We used, and I still have a product from Certified labs a product called "Free" I have yet to find anything else that worked as good but its not cheap at $35 a can. Generally soaking,tapping the bolt heads firmly to help unfreeze them and a slow process of back and forth until they unscrew all the way works pretty good usually. If the heads are rounded off then vise grips may be a option. Far as rock rails go There were a few versions, mostly TJ's IIRC that came with a little running board step kinda deal. My 91 had Smittybilt?? tube type whatever you want to call them attached to the frame right under the body lip. far as really protecting the body if you dragged one over a rock...I doubt it. I'll call them crash enhancers. If yours are bolted to the frame you should be easily able to unbolt and be done with them. Post a pic if you would as lots of folks use the rock rails if they are stout and somebody here would likely grab them up if they are close to you and in decent shape. My problem is Im 6'2" with wasted knees. Side steps have me looking way over the top of the jeep standing on them or nothing and Im getting hung up on the door edge getting in and out these days.

 

[Brian]

I am not into rock crawling and removed the big mudder tires that were on here when I bought it. Just like clean lines. Want to be rid of these chrome rails and get whatever should be OEM to fill the gap and wholes below the doors. Can't find what should be there or a place to order. O'reilys auto parts has "Free all" in aerosal cans $9.00. what to buy some?

 

[Gilaguy23]

Those tube running bars is what my 91 had on it when I bought it. Mine were mounted with 5/16? self tapping screws. IIRC 4 in front and 3 in back. I just unbolted them and put the bolts back in with some anti seize on them.I also can see somebody shortened your front flare extensions. Google OEM jeep YJ side steps and you can see a few variations on Ebay and the like and yes folks are real proud of them. Most are listed for a TJ and Im not sure if they would fit or mount right. One thing my wife uses that really helps here get in cause she are roll bar grab handles. Grab one and hoist yourself in. Just buy good ones if you get or you'll end up on your ass when the break, DAHIK.

 

[jeepjoe43]

I've always liked PB Blaster, but one pro to another, I always respect experience and I'll be looking into this "Free".
As far as being spendy, you can't really put a price on something that works, the right tool for the job.
Cheap tools aren't great and Great tools aren't cheap.

 

[ChibbMD]

So the OEM steps that spanned the gap between front and rear fenders are actually higher off the ground than the tubular steps you've got now. If you're looking for something to ease getting in and out of the Jeep, going back to the original set up is probably going the wrong direction for what you're trying to accomplish.

 

[ChibbMD]

Here's a pic of what I had on my YJ before I ditched them for tubular steps which I personally like better. Another thought, it kind of looks like your plastic fenders may be wider than stock. I can't quite tell. If they are, the original steps (like what's pictured) might not work well because they're made to connect to the front fender. There might be an unsightly transition there if the fender and step are different widths.

 

[jeepjoe43]

Here's a pic of what I had on my YJ before I ditched them for tubular steps which I personally like better. Another thought, it kind of looks like your plastic fenders may be wider than stock. I can't quite tell. If they are, the original steps (like what's pictured) might not work well because they're made to connect to the front fender. There might be an unsightly transition there if the fender and step are different widths.

View attachment 119178

I also thought the flares looked after-market, certainly not the same as the factories I have.

 

[Gilaguy23]

I was once told by my old super only a rich man can afford cheap tools. His point is they break and you cant finish the job. He was right on the money. And yes, the Certified Free is outrageously spendy. When the Gov is willing to pay $100 for a hammer whats another $250 for a case of penetrate. Lots of the stuff we "tested" was indeed snake oil I'll add. pretty funny watching a arrogant salesman walk off with his tail between his legs when his products fail miserably.
Regarding the flares,yes those are not stock TJ ones. At least it looks like you could go back to OEM width as they did not use the kind you drill the body to mount. Kinda depends on who wide your wheels stick out. Looks like your running late mod wheels and surely have spacers behind them due to lug pattern differences. Them wide ones do look kinda funky with stock wheels.

 

[Flyer58]

I bought two spray cans of Kroil penetrating oil over 10 years ago and still have some in one can. I like it better because it doesn't dry out as quickly as PB Blaster and it works really well when soaking overnight. Costs a lot more though but I still have that one can and about 10 empty PB's trying to get the stuff to work.

 

[Brian]

So the OEM steps that spanned the gap between front and rear fenders are actually higher off the ground than the tubular steps you've got now. If you're looking for something to ease getting in and out of the Jeep, going back to the original set up is probably going the wrong direction for what you're trying to accomplish.

The look you had is what I want. I don't like the blank space between the flares and the empty holes. If I could get the OEM I would fabricate a lower running board or step. I am not concerned with clearance. It is a street jeep.

 

[ChibbMD]

If you really like that look I can certainly understand. I just found those OEM side steps to be too tall and not enough step surface for anyone to get in and out easily. The only part that’s reinforced for stepping on is the step part. The rest is just plastic fender.

If it’s just the blank space and holes you don’t like there are some nice body armor options that fill that area and look really nice. I have some black diamond plate from Warrior Products that covers that whole area.

Just throwing out some options.

 

[Brian]

If you really like that look I can certainly understand. I just found those OEM side steps to be too tall and not enough step surface for anyone to get in and out easily. The only part that’s reinforced for stepping on is the step part. The rest is just plastic fender.

If it’s just the blank space and holes you don’t like there are some nice body armor options that fill that area and look really nice. I have some black diamond plate from Warrior Products that covers that whole area.

Just throwing out some options.

OK, thx. Just going for the OEM look

 

[ytradio]

Give Davies jeeps in Ohio a call. They specialize in parting out old jeeps. They ship all over the lower 48.

 

[ChibbMD]

Also Collins Brothers Jeep here in the Dallas area.

 

[Brian]

Okay, I have procrastinated long enough! All my mounts are without bolt or the bolts are so rusty I don't think a socket will fit them. I have seen some U-tube videos that I don't like and most are body off. I don't have the resources to pull the body, so looking for any advise prior to starting this project.

Next issue I am ready to replace seat covers (already have them). Normally I would pull the old ones off, but then I wondered if there would be any value in just covering over them? Again I appreciate any words of wisdom.

Last, My jeep has "Rock Guard" rails bolted to the frame. I don't need or want them. The jeep is lifted and I am short so I have to throw myself up into the seat. What I would like is to go back to OEM whatevers that cover the quarter panels (there is a series of holes for something). I will figure some kind of step later., What was the OEM that was there and where can I get it.

So I started on my body mounts and drilled a small hole (enough for aerosal straw) into the box area. I use "Free All" for rust spray and let it soak for a couple days. Still broke the bolts trying to get them out. Used a 2" hole saw and opened the area up from the interior. Wire brushed the end of the bolt and welded a 5/8" nut to the end of the broken bolt. You have to use a larger nut so you can get a good weld in there. More "Free" while hot. Let it all cool down (while hot the bolt will be expanded) Used a breaker bar and wiggled it back and forth till it started moving. Used battery impact and it came right out.
Will be using anti-seize when putting back together. Same for remaining bolts. The two at the rear will require a complete rebuild.

 

[Flyer58]

That's what's keeping me from installing new mounts. All of mine are frozen and I expect many will snap off like the skid pan bolts.

 

[Brian]

That's what's keeping me from installing new mounts. All of mine are frozen and I expect many will snap off like the skid pan bolts.

I dropped the fuel tank today because I will have to rebuild the corners for new mounrt and discover two more mounts in front of the tank. Both are broken off of course! Picked up nice front and rear tube style bumpers and a hitch that goes with it. 3 hrs of driving but worth it for 100 bills.

 

[Flyer58]

I dropped the fuel tank today because I will have to rebuild the corners for new mounrt and discover two more mounts in front of the tank. Both are broken off of course! Picked up nice front and rear tube style bumpers and a hitch that goes with it. 3 hrs of driving but worth it for 100 bills.

Good deal on the bumpers. I have some tube type a previous owner installed. The front bumper mounted on the standard frame attach points but they welded the read bumper to the rear clip. I cut the weld off last week to sand and repaint the bumper and found their weld had burned through the clip. I'll patch it and try to make up some brackets to properly attach it.

Let me know how your rear bumper attaches.

 

[Brian]

Good deal on the bumpers. I have some tube type a previous owner installed. The front bumper mounted on the standard frame attach points but they welded the read bumper to the rear clip. I cut the weld off last week to sand and repaint the bumper and found their weld had burned through the clip. I'll patch it and try to make up some brackets to properly attach it.

Let me know how your rear bumper attaches.

View attachment 119208

Had to cut off 13"s of frame from both sides due to rust. I am making my own frame pieces to replace those sections. The tube front bumper fit perfect and now the front bumper that was is now going to be my rear cross member and body mount support. Taking pics as I go and will post once complete.
Pics are out of order but you can get the idea.