Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler YJ engine mounts

YJ Heating System Explained

Right, this one did not come with that option. I just took another look at the system. Both of the control cables are detached from the top of the control box and their mounting tabs are broken. Wonder if I can source new cables and a new box with the silders? Also…looking for those two little spark plug wire clips that slide down over studs on the passenger side of the valve cover?
 
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Fast forward to solving my issues thanks to some great earlier posts with photos on this forum. So - I got the 2 OMIX cables and installed them. The “red” cable they offer is for the rightmost of the two sliders viewed from the top of the control box when you slide it out. The “blue” cable is for the temperature slider and the eyelet simply goes over a hook in that control lever when viewed underneath the control box. The third cable is the one that they do not offer a replacement for, so reuse yours with care. I did the same thing that the OP did to secure it to my control box using a zip tie after drilling a small hole next to the mounting pedestal. You can use the plastic barrel assembly to adjust it in or out as you line up the eyelet to snap over the stud on its slider. I also used a pliers to run the eyelet in and out a few times before doing this just to be sure that I had full travel at the other end on my HVAC box. For the “red” cable - the replacement was inches shorter than what I removed from the Jeep. The original was secured to the firewall with a screw and grommet. You won’t be able to secure it back that way but no big deal. I left the other end of the “red” cable loose on the air box and only slide it onto its post after reinstalling my control box back in the dash. I also used a zip tie to keep that cable from rotating around in its post - had to make sure that it stays aligned after putting the control box back in place. By the way, my control box had much of the mounting post material broken away and gone, so I got a good used one on eBay before tackling this job.

For my chronic valve cover leak - I learned that the old plastic 4-cyl valve covers are known to do this, so I installed the later, aluminum, valve cover (bought from an eBay seller who also included the 11 bolt/studs and the heater hose/electrical harness retainer) from the 1991 and newer 2.5 4-cylinder per a different post on this forum. Be sure to also buy the gasket for a 1991 Jeep as it’s different from the one that went with the plastic 1990 valve cover.

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Like the OP, I used zip ties to secure and align the control cables. The “red” cable is the bottom of the two seen in the OP’s photos which I marked up in blue to show where I used zip ties.


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Here’s the “red” cable that OMIX sells. The red side clips in on the air box and you slide that metal piece over a stud on the air door lever itself. You can unhook one side of that to adjust the position of the metal piece along the bare cable itself in order to ensure that you get full travel of the air door lever.



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Here’s where the OMIX “blue” (temperature) cable is attached - farther to the right, under the glove box. For this cable, the blue fitting snaps onto the lower side of your control box. When you move the lower slider you are extending or withdrawing this cable and thereby making that lever move left or right.
 
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Can anyone tell me what these wires are for. They are coming out of the loom right by the hvac fan switch. Purple wire with a 90 degree connector and a ground (assume its a ground)
 

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While im at it, that cable right there is the cable for the left side cowl vent. Its stuck and i assume thats why it disconnected from the switch. Can i just leave it off amd will the selector still function between off and defrost?

The blower and such and hot/ambient blend will still work if you disconnect the vent cable. You just won’t have a choice to control the vent function.
 
It’s correct as is….other than maybe the orientation of the plug. Sometimes they are backwards, I forget what correct orientation is. But there is nothing special to cap off the third port or anything that.
 
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I get asked a lot of questions about the YJ heating system and I've noticed a lot of posts on the forums about heater related issues. In fact, most people know very little about what exactly goes on inside the heating plenum when they slide those dash levers for heat or fresh air.

And because of this, diagnosing their own heater related problems can be difficult. So I've written up a tutorial on the basic heating and air functions of the Wrangler YJ.

So for those of you who have never been inside the plenum and want to know what's going on in there, read on:

View attachment 115540

Here is the basic layout of the YJ heating and fresh air ducts. For the most part the entire system is cable controlled except for the right side Cowl Gate which is operated by a vacuum motor. The vacuum is supplied by the engine and is switched automatically by the dash control panel. All other functions of the system are operated by cables controlled by the dash control panel. Each cable is directly connected to, and controls one function. All of the cables (except the Blend Gate cable) operate in one of two positions at all times to either open or close their respective gates.

The Blend Gate cable is the only multi-position cable and is used to mix warm and cold air within the plenum. (More on that later)

The blower motor is located directly behind and below the passenger vent (as shown) and pulls air directly from the cowl vent at all times while in operation. The blower motor operates only when the dash control is in the Defrost and Heat positions. It's speed is directly controlled by the fan speed switch on the dash control panel.

The Heater Core is located just to the left of the Blower Motor and has engine coolant circulating through it at all times while the engine is running.

Now lets take a look at airflow:

View attachment 115541

Here we have a picture of the heating system in the "Off" position. Notice the position of the dash control sliders. In this position, all Gates are closed, and the Blower Motor is not running. The Heater Core is always hot while the engine is running but no air is moving through the system.

View attachment 115542

Now we'll take a look at Defrost. In this position, vacuum is supplied to the vacuum motor which opens the right Cowl Gate.

This allows fresh air from outside to enter the system through the Cowl Vent and travel down to the blower motor. The passenger Vent Gate is closed directing the air towards the heater core. Notice the temperature slider has been moved over to the warm setting. This fully opens the Blend Gate allowing air to pass through the Heater core. The upper slider in the Defrost position opens the Defroster Gate directing the warm air upwards to the windshield dash vents. In this position the blower motor is running.

View attachment 115543

Moving the slider to the Heat position changes only one thing. The Defrost Gate closes directing air downward and out through the floor vents located above the transmission hump. The passenger vent gate is still closed and the blower motor is still running.

View attachment 115544

Moving the temperature slider to the center position moves the Blend Gate exactly halfway. This splits the cold airflow directing half through the heater core and bypassing the other half under the core. The bypassed cold air and the warm air from the heater core remix later and become moderate before being directed out of the system by the Defrost Gate.

View attachment 115545

Moving the slider into the Vent position does a number of things all at once. It shuts off the blower motor. It opens the passenger Vent Gate for the first time. And it opens the left Cowl Gate for the first time. The Defroster Gate remains unchanged and the Blend Gate (although it can be moved) serves no purpose since there is no airflow past the passenger Vent Gate. When this gate opens it blocks 99% of the airflow into the blower motor and the rest of the system.

The left Cowl Gate (the most difficult to see since it's deep within the dash above and behind the speedometer) allows fresh air directly into the cab bypassing the entire system.

It should also be noted that the right Cowl Gate defaults to the open position when the vacuum motor, which controls it, looses vacuum. This happens hours after the engine is shut down regardless of the dash slider positions. This typically is not a problem even in the rain as long as the Cowl drain tube remains clear. Should the drain tube become clogged, the Cowl can partially fill with water which can seep past both Cowl Gates. The Cowl drain tube is located within the engine compartment to the right of the battery.

I still need clarification. When my 93 yj is idling and the blower speed is turned down I get better heat. However when I turn the blower on high the heat cools down significantly. It also cools significantly when I start driving. It's like it something is allowing cold air to come in. After reading your post I thought it was my blend gate not closeing completely. Your warm thoughts please.
 
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I still need clarification. When my 93 yj is idling and the blower speed is turned down I get better heat. However when I turn the blower on high the heat cools down significantly. It also cools significantly when I start driving. It's like it something is allowing cold air to come in. After reading your post I thought it was my blend gate not closeing completely. Your warm thoughts please.

It also could be you have low coolant flow through the heating coil or the fins on the coil are blocked. If the coil is barely warm from low water flow, you may get 160 degree air at a slow fan speed, but when the fan is on high the coil can't produce enough heat to keep up and warm the air.
 
It also could be you have low coolant flow through the heating coil or the fins on the coil are blocked. If the coil is barely warm from low water flow, you may get 160 degree air at a slow fan speed, but when the fan is on high the coil can't produce enough heat to keep up and warm the air.

Ty, I'll check my coolant.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler YJ engine mounts