YJ Dana 30 Axle Sleeves

PCS

PCS

Primal Concrete Sledge
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Location
North Carolina
Anyone ever install those Iron Rock off-road sleeves in a YJ Dana 30?

I remember seeing a YouTube channel Rusty's411 install these on his XJ D30, but there are some differences to say the least, either way, axle tube housing is swiss cheese.

Anyway, just wondering if anyone else has done it, I also have Synergy knuckle supports ...I'm calling this my Ultimate 30 when its done...spec's out like so...

Yukon-
30 Spline chromoly axles
4.88 Gears
Grizzly Locker
Forged Yoke
Nodular Iron Cover/Lube Locker
Timken bearings
Block-Off plate & gasket.

Iron Rock Off Road Sleeves
10 factory Tube seals
Synergy Knuckle Supports
TeraFlex Premium Series Ball Joints
Timken Unit bearings
Wilwood BIG Disc Brakes
Rugged Ridge HD Tierod kit
 
IRO sleeves will not work because the YJ disconnect housing is much different than a typical D30 with straight tubes.

You’re not missing out on anything, inner sleeves due too little to matter. You could make the entire tube solid and it would barely be stronger than stock form. To increase the strength of the tube you’d be much better off adding something like 1/8” sleeve around the outside of the tubes, but you can’t do that because there’s too much crap like shock and spring mounts, track bar bracket, etc on the YJ housing.

In short, forget about it, it’s not going to work. Even if it did it wouldn’t increase strength enough to matter.
 
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In my opinion these are a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. Well, at least not at the level that most of us play at (i.e. 35 inch tires).
 
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Chris said:
In my opinion these are a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. Well, at least not at the level that most of us play at (i.e. 35 inch tires).
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In different areas of the country, we play different. A rig built for Texas and Arizona may not do so great in the Carolina's or Tennessee and vise versa.
 
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PCS said:
So you've done it then? Did you experience a failure? Are you a fabricator?
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No, I haven't done it. I didn't say anything would fail and no I'm not a fabricator....I know the kit you linked won't work because I've been inside both axle housings and know the differences.

Inside the CAD box on the left side there is a wall that provides a hole for a bushing that supports the inner axle shaft. The tube ain't going through that wall. You've done away with the need for the bushing or the wall due to using a 1-piece axle shaft and a block off plate, but the wall is still there and will stop the tube.

Not to mention, if you did somehow find a way to slide a sleeve inside the tube, you would no longer have a way to install the oil seal needed for the 1 piece axle shaft because the tube would now be smaller inner diameter than stock. We're lucky enough that the Napa 11800 oil seal works for stock axle shafts and the seal included with your Yukon shafts is the right outer diameter for the stock tube as well. Put in a sleeve and all of a sudden that is no longer the case.
 
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PCS said:
In different areas of the country, we play different. A rig built for Texas and Arizona may not do so great in the Carolina's or Tennessee and vise versa.
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Play around on a tubing strength calculator. Using one of those, it's very easy to see that adding an internal sleeve does practically nothing to add strength.

But like I said, the YJ housing will not take the tubes you are looking at. The driver side sure, but not the long passenger side. You could probably cut the long tube up and try to install the inside portion into the tube from the left side and knock it in through the diff, but again, better cut the seal portion out or else your seal for the 1 piece axle won't fit anymore.

Another way to put it is that if you're that concerned about strength, you either need to:
1) swap to an HP30 from an XJ that gets rid of the CAD box and gives you a straight tube that you can sleeve over the outside or
2) get a different housing completely like an old fashioned HP44 from a Wagoneer or something else. But that's a whole different can of worms.

The YJ axle housing itself has a weak point at the CAD box. You won't be able to sleeve it appropriately to fix that.

I would also like to add that typically, aftermarket ball joints wear out early and also stretch the holes in the knuckles to where you're forced to stick with aftermarket ball joints because the stockers will no longer fit. I would suggest sticking with Spicer if you can. They are great quality, last a very long time, and are the best option.

The 10 factory tube seals are also a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. You'd rather leave those out too so you know when the inners leak. You don't want half your oil living in the tubes and not in the diff and you not know about it because your added seals keep you from realizing it.
 
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machoheadgames said:
No, I haven't done it. I didn't say anything would fail and no I'm not a fabricator....I know the kit you linked won't work because I've been inside both axle housings and know the differences.

Inside the CAD box on the left side there is a wall that provides a hole for a bushing that supports the inner axle shaft. The tube ain't going through that wall. You've done away with the need for the bushing or the wall due to using a 1-piece axle shaft and a block off plate, but the wall is still there and will stop the tube.

Not to mention, if you did somehow find a way to slide a sleeve inside the tube, you would no longer have a way to install the oil seal needed for the 1 piece axle shaft because the tube would now be smaller inner diameter than stock. We're lucky enough that the Napa 11800 oil seal works for stock axle shafts and the seal included with your Yukon shafts is the right outer diameter for the stock tube as well. Put in a sleeve and all of a sudden that is no longer the case.
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I've owned both housings and been in both as well and you've made some great points.

So, I've started drilling that bearing... this thing is a BEAR to get out, its fighting me every step of the way...

"Not to mention, if you did somehow find a way to slide a sleeve inside the tube, you would no longer have a way to install the oil seal needed for the 1 piece axle shaft because the tube would now be smaller inner diameter than stock."

That's going to be my next issue...this is where I'm at.... there is no going back 🤪
 
machoheadgames said:
Another way to put it is that if you're that concerned about strength, you either need to:
1) swap to an HP30 from an XJ that gets rid of the CAD box and gives you a straight tube that you can sleeve over the outside
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I can not go this route. My Wilwood big brakes will not fit this axle, nor will a lot of the other parts I've already bought. :D
 
PCS said:
I've owned both housings and been in both as well and you've made some great points.

So, I've started drilling that bearing... this thing is a BEAR to get out, its fighting me every step of the way...

"Not to mention, if you did somehow find a way to slide a sleeve inside the tube, you would no longer have a way to install the oil seal needed for the 1 piece axle shaft because the tube would now be smaller inner diameter than stock."

That's going to be my next issue...this is where I'm at.... there is no going back 🤪
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I forget the older years have a needle bearing while later years have a bushing. I do believe the OD of both is the same. Isn't that a large bearing? Like probably 1.5" in diameter? I've always just knocked the bushing out with a socket and some extensions and hammered from the driver end. Knock it into the CAD and pull it out through the CAD opening.
 
PCS said:
I can not go this route. My Wilwood big brakes will not fit this axle, nor will a lot of the other parts I've already bought. :D
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Is your Wilwood kit for 87-89 YJ front axles only I'm guessing?

Early and late knuckles can fit on any housing whether XJ or YJ, so it should be able to work just fine. Youd just install your Wilwood brake stuff on the XJ housing.

87-89/90ish housings use early knuckles with the caliper adapter and threaded ball joint holes for the tapered insert that goes on the early ball joints. 90ish and onward use newer ball joints and unthreaded knuckles. However, any setup can be used on any axle housing, as the inner C's are all the same. You just use whatever ball joint style or knuckle style you need to make what you have work.
 
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machoheadgames said:
The YJ axle housing itself has a weak point at the CAD box. You won't be able to sleeve it appropriately to fix that.
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I've never broke it until now with my madness. I might just get a replacement housing and throw her together with the Yukon kit and the rest of the parts including the knuckle supports and call it good.
 
machoheadgames said:
I forget the older years have a needle bearing while later years have a bushing. I do believe the OD of both is the same. Isn't that a large bearing? Like probably 1.5" in diameter? I've always just knocked the bushing out with a socket and some extensions and hammered from the driver end. Knock it into the CAD and pull it out through the CAD opening.
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That's exactly what I was doing, but it will NOT budge and we're even using a 10 pound sledge. So we started drilling it... now its full of holes and should break up.
 
machoheadgames said:
Is your Wilwood kit for 87-89 YJ front axles only I'm guessing?
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Yes, its the knuckles that are important for the kit to work. Those could be moved onto the XJ housing... I just don't have the skill set to make that happen. I hate axles & gears. I'd rather build engines all day, do suspension work, but I hate axles and gearing.
 
PCS said:
Yes, its the knuckles that are important for the kit to work. Those could be moved onto the XJ housing... I just don't have the skill set to make that happen. I hate axles & gears. I'd rather build engines all day, do suspension work, but I hate axles and gearing.
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Should just be a ball joint press job and unbolt and refasten on the new.
 
PCS said:
The C's are welded on the YJ axle.... need those cut off and welded on the XJ axle with leaf spring perches.
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What I’m saying is the C’s are the same. The XJ axle would have coil perches, you would cut those off and put on leaf spring perches.

The C’s/ball joints/knuckles can all work with the right combo of parts. You would install your ball joints and knuckles on the XJ axle. The caveat is you need leaf spring and shock perches to burn to that axle. But it would ultimately be a better option.

PCS said:
What is the YJ front axle width 60 or 60.5
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I think TJ/XJ/YJ are all 60.5.
 
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machoheadgames said:
What I’m saying is the C’s are the same. The XJ axle would have coil perches, you would cut those off and put on leaf spring perches.

The C’s/ball joints/knuckles can all work with the right combo of parts. You would install your ball joints and knuckles on the XJ axle. The caveat is you need leaf spring and shock perches to burn to that axle. But it would ultimately be a better option.


I think TJ/XJ/YJ are all 60.5.
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Yeah, I follow you man, I appreciate your time chatting with me. I may post a bunch more new parts for sale. :LOL:
 
machoheadgames said:
What I’m saying is the C’s are the same. The XJ axle would have coil perches, you would cut those off and put on leaf spring perches.

The C’s/ball joints/knuckles can all work with the right combo of parts. You would install your ball joints and knuckles on the XJ axle. The caveat is you need leaf spring and shock perches to burn to that axle. But it would ultimately be a better option.


I think TJ/XJ/YJ are all 60.5.
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Check out these specs..
Front Axle Complete
Dana 489NR High Pinion YJ Front Bolt in Axle Assembly
(BOM-D489F-NR-YJ)
AXLE WIDTH - WMS:60.5
Select Ball Joints: Synergy Chromoly Ball Joints (+$154.00)
SELECT LOCKER: GRIZZLY LOCKER (D44-GRIZ-3-30) (+$550.00)
SELECT GEAR RATIO: D44RS-488
Add Gear Oil: Gear Oil
Add Knuckles: Add New Knuckles 1989 & Down (+$450.00)
SELECT DIFF COVER:YUKON HARDCORE (DC:D44-YHC) (+$100.00)
Spring Perch: Spring Under
Select Handling Charge: Local Pickup - 7.25% Tax Applies

Rear

Dana 489 YJ Rear Bolt In Axle Assembly - 35 Spline
(BOM-489-YJ-R)
SELECT LOCKER:ARB (+$945.00)
Ebrake Cables: YJ 87-90 (02/01) (+$90.00)
Suspension Lift: 5.5"-6.5"
Driveshaft Style : CV-SYE
SELECT DIFF COVER:YUKON HARDCORE (DC:D44-YHC) (+$100.00)
SELECT RATIO: 4.88 (BO-D489NR-RG-488) (+$525.00)
ADD LUBE LOCKER GASKET: LUBE LOCKER (+$24.00)
SELECT YOKE: 1310 (+$60.00)
Spring Perch: Spring Under
UPGRADE DISC BRAKES: Disc Brake / Set 20 Upgrade (+$550.00)
WMS:60.5
Select Handling Charge: Local Pickup - 7.25% Tax Applies

They're only 3 hr drive, no sense in shipping them when I can save that money and pick em up. Think I'm just going to go this route.
 
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