Need some direction on fueling/tune issues

ChibbMD

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Dallas, TX
Hey folks. This group has been really helpful for me recently as I've been refreshing my YJ. I thought I'd outline some concerns I've got regarding my fueling/current carb tune, and see if anyone has any suggestions about how to proceed. First, a few bits of background. I've got an 88 with a 4.2. 165k mi. Back in 2015 I had an EMPI Weber Style carb installed and all the old emissions crap ripped out. Was installed by Collins Brothers Jeep here in the Dallas area. They're a reputable shop and are one of the go-to places locally for Jeeps from CJs to current.

When the carb was first installed it ran great from idle to driving in 5th gear on the freeway. Only slight complaint was a strong exhaust smell (maybe exhaust related, maybe running rich). I finally got that addressed by Collins Brothers at my most recent service which was just last month. Here's what's been done recently:

1. Catalytic converter was shot, so we replaced it. Also installed a downturn exhaust tip. This significantly improved the smell.
2. Basic tune up - oil, plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Air filter cleaned and re-oiled.
3. They said they tried to lean out the carb a bit in case part of the exhaust smell was due to running rich.

I've noticed a number of symptoms (most new) that have me concerned that my current state of tune isn't quite right. I'll outline my main observations.

1. Really sooty exhaust at start up. Sprays black crap all over my garage floor. Exhaust tip is brand new and already black. Exhaust smell once warmed up is much better than before, but still noticeable.
2. This is probably my biggest complaint and it's definitely a new symptom - when in fourth gear or especially in fifth the slightest bit of an incline in the road will cause the engine to lose revs and no amount of mashing the gas will give it enough fuel to regain revs. I never had trouble cruising at 65mph in the past, but now I'm downshifting to fourth gear to maintain revs. This can't be right.
3. In almost any gear, if I'm lower in revs, flooring the gas pedal will cause some sort of backfire/popping which sounds to be somewhere in the front to middle of the Jeep (maybe air filter or exhaust manifold? Not out the exhaust tip). I don't think I experienced this in the past.
4. Lastly, the idle is smooth in the sense that it will stay running at whatever rev amount it decides to run at. It doesn't bounce around. The problem seems to be that sometimes it wants to idle at 800 RPM and sometimes even after I've been driving around town and the engine is warm, I'll start it up and it'll struggle to stay running at 200-300 RPM until I rev the engine or drive it for a few minutes. Then it acts fine. This is pretty intermittent. The choke gives extra fuel at cold start up like it should, but this seems to be an issue after it's warm.

Sorry, that's a lot of info, but I wonder if there are some inter-related issues. Overall, the Jeep is still very driveable, but it's just not quite right compared to my previous experience. I'm probably due to take it back to Collins Brothers, but I like to have a decent level of knowledge about what's going on so I'm not just that guy that's like "I'm stupid. Fix my Jeep please.".
 
I sounds to me that part of your problems may be the choke not coming all the way off. That would give you a loss of power, and a rich burning condition. I personally never had good luck with auto chokes for the long haul and always ended up with a man choke cable.
 
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The auto chokes can be problematic at times and it sounds a good place to start. The heat element might have burned out or it hing up. far as black soot...I do find it odd that some vehicles can go 100K and the tailpipe looks like new metal where some others look like a never cleaned stove pipe. Keep in mind colder weather (winter months) will create more condensation in the exhaust which may be contributing to the soot blowing out the tailpipe on startups.
 
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I agree, it sounds like a choke problem.
An easy way to diagnose is: Temporarally wire the choke flap wide open, warm the engine up to operating temp, and go for a drive. If the problem disappears, your choke is the culprit.
 
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If it was the choke, do you think that would be contributing to the bogging and poor highway performance, or is it more related to the strange start up and idle behavior? Just curious if you think I've got related or unrelated issues.
 
The soot on start could also indicate fuel getting into the intake manifold after shutting down the engine. This could be from a stuck float in the carb allowing fuel to get by and too much fuel when running.

Change the filter and check the carb.
 
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If it was the choke, do you think that would be contributing to the bogging and poor highway performance, or is it more related to the strange start up and idle behavior? Just curious if you think I've got related or unrelated issues.
Yes it can cause those issues. Have you ever left the manual choke on too long on a lawnmower. It doesn’t run very well or have peak power does it?
 
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If it was the choke, do you think that would be contributing to the bogging and poor highway performance, or is it more related to the strange start up and idle behavior? Just curious if you think I've got related or unrelated issues.
Yes, I do think that.
Not saying it's the only problem, or even part of the only problem.
Temporarily wiring the choke flap open is just a diagnostic tool. If the problem gets better, choke is at least part of the problem.
Make sure the engine is up to running temp before you test drive it.