Lifter tick

Flyer58 said:
Actually the dip stick tube can be bent. I found that during the assembly of my 2.5L and caught it before I put the oil pan on. Either the tube was bent while installing it or while I had it stored in the shelf.
Click to expand...
Thanks appreciate it
 
  • Like
Reactions: Flyer58
rebuilt and replaced front of engine and every sensor
Click to expand...
what did you do to this engine, elaborate all things you did. (new chain and sprockets?) just this, and did not drop pan?
did you buy the car dead? no history. told.
the dip stick is not on the front of the 2.5



try engine flush
read the bottle and do as it says exactly (only run it at idle and not driven)
then oil change.
see lots of bad stuff come out.
and new spec oil now the HLA are quite.

my95 the dip fits on the boss for the not used fuel pump plate stop
dip not bent is not the dip doing that. just run engine with no dip to prove that. a 1 second test.
did you forget the chain , damper device in the front cover? there are 2 kinds I think and if wrong can rattle.

this engine is 1994 see the 4 in engine serial bingo 1994. the dip is bent just like the photo below.
engine5-dip.jpg

the chains is only 1 thing of like 50 that can make noise and tick. on any engine really. (count the parts and all accessories on any engine and bingo lots)
tensioner.JPG

a mix if metric and SAE bolts. here. amazing this. ( but common that year)

if the tension-er fails on any car with chain drive, the parts fall to the pan as the snap off.
I drain the pan of oil
and use my bore scope to inspect for lost parts at the bottom of the pan. just to be sure nothing floating about down there.
YMMV your motor may vary (30 years old)

here it all is in the VID


1991 to 02 dip tube eng. you can see the effort to bend it so the stick goes in strait to the block, clearly


stock-dip25.png
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: old red
Dorf said:
what did you do to this engine, elaborate all things you did. (new chain and sprockets?) just this, and did not drop pan?
did you buy the car dead? no history. told.
the dip stick is not on the front of the 2.5



try engine flush
read the bottle and do as it says exactly (only run it at idle and not driven)
then oil change.
see lots of bad stuff come out.
and new spec oil now the HLA are quite.

my95 the dip fits on the boss for the not used fuel pump plate stop
dip not bent is not the dip doing that. just run engine with no dip to prove that. a 1 second test.
did you forget the chain , damper device in the front cover? there are 2 kinds I think and if wrong can rattle.

View attachment 122457
View attachment 122458
a mix if metric and SAE bolts. here. amazing this. ( but common that year)

if the tension-er fails on any car with chain drive, the parts fall to the pan as the snap off.
I drain the pan of oil
and use my bore scope to inspect for lost parts at the bottom of the pan. just to be sure nothing floating about down there.
YMMV your motor may vary (30 years old)

here it all is in the VID
Click to expand...
Everything but the chain. Dip stick not it checked it. Time to change oil and dig a little deeper. Thanks
 
Just to clarify, I found the tube,guide, bent and making contact so just pulling out the dipstick alone would not have made any difference.

Have you tried a stethoscope to help locate the sound? Even a simple wooden broomstick can help transmit the sound to determine where on the engine it's coming from.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: old red
The 2.5L has hydraulic tappets and the lash is not really adjustable. The preload on the tappet is accomplished by torque-ing the bolts on the rockers to 20ft-lbs. This basically gives you zero lash on base circle.....exhaust and intake are the same and share a stamped steel bridge between them. If your tappets are clicking it probably means their leakdown rates are too fast and they're not pumping up. The cure would be replacing the offending tappet(s).
 
  • Like
Reactions: DOWNS and old red
T-Rex Jeepster said:
The 2.5L has hydraulic tappets and the lash is not really adjustable. The preload on the tappet is accomplished by torque-ing the bolts on the rockers to 20ft-lbs. This basically gives you zero lash on base circle.....exhaust and intake are the same and share a stamped steel bridge between them. If your tappets are clicking it probably means their leakdown rates are too fast and they're not pumping up. The cure would be replacing the offending tappet(s).
Click to expand...
Thanks for the information
 
  • Like
Reactions: T-Rex Jeepster
Check this out.....Lots of details......

wrangleryjforum.com

1995 2.5L Lifter Replacement Experience and Lessons Learned

I made a separate thread that touched on this but wanted to put this out there since I am sure others are in my same position and thinking about replacing lifters on the 2.5L to get rid of some ticking. My situation: 1995 Wrangler 2.5L manual with 162k miles Engine tick at roughly 1/2 of RPMs...
wrangleryjforum.com wrangleryjforum.com
 
T-Rex Jeepster said:
Check this out.....Lots of details......

wrangleryjforum.com

1995 2.5L Lifter Replacement Experience and Lessons Learned

I made a separate thread that touched on this but wanted to put this out there since I am sure others are in my same position and thinking about replacing lifters on the 2.5L to get rid of some ticking. My situation: 1995 Wrangler 2.5L manual with 162k miles Engine tick at roughly 1/2 of RPMs...
wrangleryjforum.com wrangleryjforum.com
Click to expand...
This is perfect thank you. Very much appreciated
 
the lifters gum up when oil is not changed i time, then tey cLICK/TICK, (the oldest story on earth engines with HLA ) back to 1930 Cadillac V16 (Model 452).
nothing new about that, it's SOP on old engines abused. (pan full of sludge)?

the dip tube if bent , it will bend at the iron block juncture, and sure can be noisy if dip hits the crank shaft. see my photo with yellow line.
a shop engine stethoscope is like $10 to buy my electronic stethoscope was $29 from Steelman.
find the location first then we speculate 10x faster.
  1. chain bad. or is loaded guide bad. or both is common.
  2. lifters bad
  3. piston slap or damage piston ring lands. broken rings.
  4. rod knock (double tap) load and angry sound. RAP id say.
  5. main knock deep sounds not ticks.
or find a shop to listen and tell you what it might be.???? hearing is what matters and the scope.
this is all wild speculation every word. blind and deaf.
 
one more, even easy.
the distributor rotor is bad and ticks , or used wrong one or put on wrong, not fully seated.
bad Dizzy cap. cracks. even caused by above line. (they collided)
even a bad distributor has bad set of bearing and makes noise.

if anything bolted to the engine is loose it sure can make noise, what I do is use 2x4 and push on things on the engine running to stop the noise
and for sure look for things lose and rattling,

do a full engine flush, if it's lifters.
we even to valve cover off lifter tests running , done for 94 years, and I bet youtube has a guy doing that, I have many times.
using plastic sheet, cut for VC shape and using (love to say this ) DUCT tape, to hold it all down and this catches flying oil.
in the old days we find 1 lifter is bad. remove it and soak it in Acetone even some can be dismantled and make 100% pure and clean then pre oiled and tired again. (we did that then because owners would balk at a new set x8 of HLA new in box and labor.)
the push rods have a oil path, inside them that feeds oil to the rod/rocker contact point and we make sure all rockers so signs of top end oil to those points
or it will make noise and then fail hard,(wear fast dry)
the engine block oil gallery feeds each actual HLA with full oil pressure (40psi is par) then then pump up and noise ends until they are gummed up or SHOT
Shot means worn to death EOL, end of life this. RIP it.
a rocker mounting bolt loose?
here is a guy doing this 94 year old act for his first time.




so what does one do now.
doing this fin act. (stethoscope proves rocker is noisy)
gee just look, gee #2 has no oiling, top end ( i randonly picked 1 to fail to give 1 example)
or see the #2 push rod going wild out of control, not found yet we then grab a hammer ,wood handles only best, and hold only the head
we push the wood handle hard to each rocker to make the sounds louder or stops ticking. or it shifts the tick from push end to valve end.
that is 16 tests on 8 rockers and 2 ends of each rocker. the noise is at valve stem or at the push rod or both.
total cost is 1 sheet of plastic to catch the mess. or old bed sheet, cut to fit and tape'd down.

All old mech know what to do on Push rod engines, most cars now have none (SOHC/DOHC) so find an old dog.
the HLA sure can be cleaned. and pre lubed and primed, and put back in using $15 extractor tool. etc.

our rockers do not adjust. but the video shows the push rods feeding fresh oil (push end to valve) to the valves clear as day
never run any Push rod engine with no oil flow seen here. vivid. (the valve stems must get oil okay)

or rocker bolts are 21ft/lbs set. not adjusted at all.
FSM page chapter 9 , page 23 < the books is free in the #1 stick this forum.
 
Last edited:
this 4 banger idles and shakes, so anything connected sure can rattle, I never blame any engine first.
I use levers to find what is loose. (long pry bar, of any kind handy) lever all points on the engine safely and running, do not get near the fan but it too can get lose. the power steering pump has like 6 bolts or more to fail. loose or missing mine was missing 3 bolts. day1,
lots of brackets to rattle.
lever them all running, see if tick dies.
once the lever tests pass out come the STEELman

steelmantools.com

Steelman Mini Engineear Diagnostic Stethoscope And Vibration Detector

Hunt down annoying and troublesome noises. This handy listening tool features an easy to operate, hand sized unit with a pair of diagnostic tips for both pinpoint detection as well as for performing diagnosis in real driving conditions.
steelmantools.com steelmantools.com


see it this is the cheap entry version and works with 1 channel.
a micro phone clamp.(MIC)
a set of Music head phones (Tip ring sleave type0 works best) USB does not work only old school TRS phone jacked phones.
the real phones (muffs) all me to focus on MIC heard noise and not sounds from the street. etc.

I can find any kind of noise on the car, 2 man testing even moving, car. fast. safely
even axle bearings bad.
the MIC clamp wires are long to do out the window tests moving .
in your case use the probe tip MIC to find where on the engine noise is the loadest, 6 sides to a cube same as an engine, do the all.
listen first.


see the lifter come out easy on 2.5L with the tool'

the removed or replace lifters must bled first of all oil, and on first startup it self tunes itself under 40 psi oil pressure.
DO NO MIX UP HLA LIFTERS, PUT THEM BACK WHERE FOUND. (USED)
LIFTER LEAK DOWN TEST IS SPECAIL TOOL WE DO NOT HAVE. SO WE BUY ALL NEW LIFTERS.
If the fail the hand leak down test sure. C9 page 25 covers this.

a crude test HLA in hand, is try to collaps it by hand and if can in 20 seconds that is normal;
if jammed up, solid not a good lifter.
if the lifter is fully collapsed and will not spring inside retract it is bad. cleaned first, and tests. 2nd.
if bottom of lifter is scooped out (wear), the lifters and cam are bad page 25 even warns of that.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: old red
solvents, I use (even dismantled HLA actual)
I use Acetone, it cuts gum and sludge fast ( used in fresh air outdoors)
or use Kerosene (jet fuel)
or use Oil base paint tinner, also called Stoddard solvent. (wal-mart even sells it still)
never use water. rust is never fun..
once they are apart it is patently obvous to you what works and does not, get the gum out of the guts of the HLA.
my friend has an Ultra sonic cleaner mach. that saves time.
the first thing I do is make sure top end oiling really works.
The best valve cover gasket is this ,rubber not cork.
by

17477.14 Omix-ADA​

costs $4 more and IS more.
 
Dorf said:
solvents, I use (even dismantled HLA actual)
I use Acetone, it cuts gum and sludge fast ( used in fresh air outdoors)
or use Kerosene (jet fuel)
or use Oil base paint tinner, also called Stoddard solvent. (wal-mart even sells it still)
never use water. rust is never fun..
once they are apart it is patently obvous to you what works and does not, get the gum out of the guts of the HLA.
my friend has an Ultra sonic cleaner mach. that saves time.
the first thing I do is make sure top end oiling really works.
The best valve cover gasket is this ,rubber not cork.
by

17477.14 Omix-ADA​

costs $4 more and IS more.
Click to expand...
Thanks that's a lot of info to go over appreciate it
 
  • Like
Reactions: ytradio
use engine flush
do not drive car with flush in the pan!
read the bottle and do as it says. for the length of time, etc.
the flush really does work you will see that is the old oil hits the drain pan. see that jUNK THERE?
then do it again in 3k miles.
the 2.5L allows lifter pull outs, head in place.
all can be dismantled and clean and hand tested per Youtube videos
I had 1 ticking 6 months ago but now gone , flushed.

a stethoscope is tool every shop has. finding the source or location is job 1.
even accessories on front of engine can tick
I can use my stethoscope on all that, even touch front and rear of ALTenator , hear bearing purrrrrrr, not grind. nor make hash sounds.
the PS pump
the idlers.
top of VC, front center and rear of VC listen. learn to do that. even test a good engine to learn what sounds good. first. (amazing this act)
listen to both sides of the engine, and cam cover.
and pan.
keep an open mind, do not assume.
and assume parts are loose on the engine, make them all tight, and no missing nut/bolts. loose parts rattle.

my car, the PO or last wrench guy, left the AC compressor 3 bolts loose doing front spark plugs. (3.7L v6)
and my YJ 3 bolts missing on the PS pump, dang, how does this work?
learn to use a lever. make Archimedes of Syracuse grins from the grave. the man that used a LEVER !
the lever find things loose
the lever find that omg the noise ended, while levered.
mech, 101 jobs.

Archimedes is also credited with finding new uses for the lever. The great inventor supposedlysaid, "Give me a place to stand on, and a lever long enough, and I will move the earth, then was challenged to do it". LOL
Click to expand...
 
its a lot of information to go through
Click to expand...
well the bloody car has 3000 parts to rattle. or make noise. and more actually .
not only that, but some things rattle directly
and others do it

sympathetically​

to the old nasty 4 cylinder (banger) wild natural shacking and vibration lacking the wonderful modern balance shaft)
gee even engine mounts bad can rattle. and lots and lots more.
or relay gone WiLD.
we do all the simple tests first. then go deeper, valve cover off running if need be.
if wise assume all is bad and prove otherwise.
its old, and most have 10 or more problems. all ignored until the next straw breaks the camels back. (then endless story of life and machines by man)
 
  • Like
Reactions: old red
Top Bottom