Is 4K a fair price?

[SuG]

Hi- I am the owner of a 94 YJ- 4 cy- I took it to a reputable shop for a possible oil leak and possible exhaust leak. They said and showed me I need:
New Timing Chain, broken bolt in exhaust manifold, valve cover leak, oil pan leak, new motor mounts, and rear main seal gasket (sm leak)Quote is 4K parts and labor-

Does this seem like a fair price?

Greatly appreciated

 

[redbullet]

It looks like about $300 in parts and 15 hours shop time. $4k is very high and these are not difficult jobs.

 

[ytradio]

It looks like about $300 in parts and 15 hours shop time. $4k is very high and these are not difficult jobs.

Agreed

 

[Flyer58]

I've seen quotes as high as $7,000 to pull and rebuild the engine. Rusted bolts that need to be cut and fixed along with any frame rust can double the labor costs.

 

[dodgerammit]

It looks like about $300 in parts and 15 hours shop time. $4k is very high and these are not difficult jobs.

This is exactly why I no longer let shops work on my stuff. The 'labor' costs have gotten outrageous.

My thought is this: They don't want to work on it, but will work on it if you're dumb enough to pay what they quote.

Had a reputable shop look at my 2000 WS6 for a top end noise. Quote was like 3K to replace a lifter. (Yes, I know heads come off).
They said it could be up to 5K for a cam if it needed it. WTF?! (This was about 3 years ago as well.)
I asked why their rates were so high. Their reply; "Well if it's a cam, you gotta pull the engine." Me; "NO YOU DON'T! You can stab a cam in with the motor sitting IN the vehicle!" Crickets on their end.

Ended up rebuilding the entire top end with new 'fun' cam, pushrods, lifters, head gaskets, timing chain, oil pump, etc. Never did it before. And I did it with my bad lower back not getting too mad at me.

Oh, and that noise? I broke a pushrod. Discovered it after I had already pulled the driver's head. It was passenger side. Had I started on passenger side, I could have fixed it for about $25. Not knowing for sure what was wrong, I had already ordered everything anyway, and had set my sights on having a slightly lumpy idle now. Spent $1900 and got a 40HP boost while I learned even more about my car.

There are plenty of how-tos out there on common motors. The 2.5 is VERY common. I'm not versed in it that much, but lots of youtube channels out there feature YJ-2.5 maintenance videos.


The rear main will be the fun job as it's a 1 piece on the 2.5.

Roll up your sleeves. Get dirty. If you don't have tools, now is the time to get you a small tool set started.
They don't have to be expensive. I'm still beating on the same 3/8" ratchet (very first tool I purchased), bought from auto zone 20 years ago.
Get you a small tool cabinet, or just a large tool bag to sit on a shelf. Buy a simple standard/metric 6 point socket set, and a set of metric/standard combination wrenches. Get a flat/phillips screwdriver assortment. Again, not snap on expensive. Think Harbor freight.

Then watch some youtube videos. Start simple. Tackle the valve cover first.

Build your confidence. Than move to the oil pan, then timing chain, etc. Small steps. Get familiar with your rig. You'll love the confidence you gain from doing so.

You can always knock down the really easy stuff and let a shop (that isn't trying to financially rape you) do the rear main and motor mounts as those require a special jack and a hoist to be safe about doing.

Good luck!

 

[deadpool1]

all that cost is labor. 40 hours labor is not fair. 10 to 20 maybe

get 3 quotes from 3 shops

the engine pulled, out, , and all that done is not 4000 bucks.
make them quote parts and labor both. make them break it down. or pass
or
replace the VC cover gasket. and omg all leaks stopped. amazing no.
the rear of VC leaks to rear and down bell and lands on the bell vent HOLE and guess what, oil goes below there and crank seal blamed. (shocking no?) see photo 1.
on the M/T box BELL but no transmission told by you, why?
do all the easy stuff first. see if you are happy.
I use 1998 2.5L dakota VC , blue , HQ, Felpro gasket, most others are pure trash. VS50502R<< part number felpro.
make sure PCV valve (its only an orifice) is clean if PCV paths block up all seals leak, ( and a free fix by you, not 4k)
not told what manifold bolt /stud is missing
far ends are studs
close in are bolts.
which one matters. ( if broken inside the head that is big job_)
I've replace all parts on mine, now, cept tub/frame. (1/2 joking)

do the VC first. then see the truth. later. Omg the drips ended. (every day less and now gone) it's and easy job.
The chain bad may not be true. jogging the crank 19mm bolt center as you watch dizzy rotor , will reveal the chain play.

I bet he just was building a ticket. all things that cause a leaks and assumes all those are bad. then
20 in to 3800 bucks is 190bucks an hour.
pulling the engine , reduces the labor. for sure worse case snapped off studs.

do the work serially, then if engine must be pulled, so be it. last.
if this car is m/t like mine, look here see this oil magnet hole here???????? never forget this or go broke fixing leaks.

 

[deadpool1]

the stud, if snapped off. flush. can be easy fix or crazy hard. <<< or needs the magic weld fix. to get it out seen on Youtube.
or head must be pulled, and sent to a machine shop that can do the work ,10x more easy.
if the rear main seal is not bad, (after VC seal and after PCV is fully clear x2) that is your call , or just ignore the drip as 99% do.
what if only the rear main seal was bad, would you pull the engine just for that? most folks , go PASS !
the rear main seal is an engine out or tranny out job.
what is more easy depend on SHOP tools. (at hand)

if the air filter is packed in OIL the PCV is dead. fix that first. on all cars. do not ignore the PCV , 2 hose pipes and the whole path
one is VENT fresh air to engine top
2nd hose is PCV orifice fitting head front, left. if clogged the bypass gasses and oil cloud. goes to the Air cleaner and it packs up fast.
PCV is a 60kmile normal service point, and repeats.
Some cars the PCV vent inside the VC,cover has mesh filter and or baffle that can clog, so a new VC seal put in we look there too.
my cover is aluminum, and inside are 2 under cover VC , PCV stand pipes , both must be clear, (not clogged) rear is vent side.(fresh air input to the engine VC rear)

 

[PCS]

Hi- I am the owner of a 94 YJ- 4 cy- I took it to a reputable shop for a possible oil leak and possible exhaust leak. They said and showed me I need:
New Timing Chain, broken bolt in exhaust manifold, valve cover leak, oil pan leak, new motor mounts, and rear main seal gasket (sm leak)Quote is 4K parts and labor-

Does this seem like a fair price?

Greatly appreciated

If that's the "reputable" place you're screwed. Wow! what a bunch of crooks! Everyone has a Harbor Freight near their home. I recommend you buy some basic tools, some nice torque wrenches and an engine stand... the Factory Service Manuals are a few pages over.... super simple engine to repair, rebuild as is the I6 4.2 / 4.0L. It just doesn't get any easier than this...its a no brainer.