Guess Im finally getting annoyed with a lazy volt gauge and a semi pegged oil pressure gauge. Ive tested the OP gauge by grounding the sender wire and I get no change,still at 60, not 80 psi. This is with it running or just the key on. The volt gauge varies but typically says far under 12 volts and might drop to 9ish when the lights are on. I can plug in a digital volt reader into one of my power ports and im seeing 14V give or take. Ive read there is a gauge plug back behind the dash that gets dirty or loose and may be the culprit. Been some time since I had the gauge cluster out or loose as the plastic is in so,so where it screws on and dont wanna make it worst. Before I go tearing thru places i dont need to any suggestions of picture of the "infamous" pad gauge connector if it exists. Or does this sound like a that ribbon connector on the back of the cluster is bad. I hate electrical problems.
Gauge issues
- Thread starter Gilaguy23
- Start date
Could be really anything along the way of the gauge wiring and parts. The ribbons seem to corrode quite frequently although I can't tell if it's related to region or what. My ribbons on both clusters are still pristine but I'm in texas....so you'll probably have to examine it. What you could do is reach up behind the cluster and pull the plug and then test the wiring on it from the connector and see what voltage you get. Could just have a gauge that isn't perfect. My gauge indicates nearly 15V when my alternator is truly doing more around 14-14.2.
Have not had the oil pressure sender issues. from what I recall in a convo with doop, the oil pressure works backwards of the coolant temp gauge. one of them pegs all the way when the wire is grounded, the other one should read 0 when the wire is grounded. And being unplugged, one of them would peg and the other would do nothing. I believe coolant temp pegs when you ground it and goes to 0 unplugged. I believe oil pressure goes to 80 unplugged and 0 when grounded. So you may have a faulty OP gauge if it's staying on 60 no matter what. Or as discussed earlier, maybe a ribbon issue causing reading problems with both.
The gauge wiring path is as such: gauge cluster connector, down to firewall rubber boot (connector there before wiring goes out the boot), then wiring goes up into the firewall loom and then out the firewall loom to a cube block connector, which transfers all of the connections to the engine harness which runs around the engine and to all of the gauges. It's pretty simple but can be difficult to access the wiring sometimes since it's all tied up.
Have not had the oil pressure sender issues. from what I recall in a convo with doop, the oil pressure works backwards of the coolant temp gauge. one of them pegs all the way when the wire is grounded, the other one should read 0 when the wire is grounded. And being unplugged, one of them would peg and the other would do nothing. I believe coolant temp pegs when you ground it and goes to 0 unplugged. I believe oil pressure goes to 80 unplugged and 0 when grounded. So you may have a faulty OP gauge if it's staying on 60 no matter what. Or as discussed earlier, maybe a ribbon issue causing reading problems with both.
The gauge wiring path is as such: gauge cluster connector, down to firewall rubber boot (connector there before wiring goes out the boot), then wiring goes up into the firewall loom and then out the firewall loom to a cube block connector, which transfers all of the connections to the engine harness which runs around the engine and to all of the gauges. It's pretty simple but can be difficult to access the wiring sometimes since it's all tied up.
Been lucky with gauges, with exception of a temp sender, hell my gas gauge even works!
My volt meter reads a little high too, like Macho's, about 15V.
With all I've been reading lately about gauges, I think a good clean-up will be order when do the LED's.
My volt meter reads a little high too, like Macho's, about 15V.
With all I've been reading lately about gauges, I think a good clean-up will be order when do the LED's.
I have read the volt gauge is adjustable. IIRC it needed to be disassembled somewhat and there is a very small screw in back that allows for adjustment. Probably be easier just to swap it out. Id like to remove the entire mess and go CJ style on the dash. A project for winter perhaps.
