Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler YJ engine mounts

Gas tank skid plate replacement

Ledhed14

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Joined
Feb 16, 2026
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8
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Detroit
Hello!

I have a 1993 yj wrangler I’m working on. My skid plate under the gas tank is fully rusted through and needs a replacement. I’m hoping someone on here has done this same thing at some point and can help calm my nerves on it.

First, is there anything I need to know going into this? I’m hoping it’s bolt on bolt off, but I’m concerned I’m missing something and the entire tank will drop on my while I’m under it. Can anyone verify that the tank is connected sepperatly from the skid plate?

Second, does anyone have replacement recommendations? eBay has some options like: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1158586835...pid=5337789113&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1
however I get nervous using eBay for car parts as I would rather be 100% sure on fitment and have the ability to return if it doesn’t fit.

Added a photo so you can laugh at my northern salt induced pain :)

IMG_0861.jpeg
 
All your fears are about to come true. The skid pan holds up the tank, four bolts in the back and three in the front. There's also two straps which hold the tank to the skid pan.

I highly recommend getting the tank as close to empty as possible, 6 lbs. per gallon add up. I attached a 6ft 5/8 dia. fuel line to the injector rail and jumped the relay to get the rest out. Look for a youtube video.

I used a floor jack to lower and raise the tank once unbolted. You'll also need to undo the last rubber isolator for the tailpipe to make more room for the tank.

Also remove both the filler hose and vent hose between the tank and gas cap.

The new skid pan may, or may not fit exactly. I think I bought the same one from eBay. I had to slightly bend mine so the bolt holes lined up.

While you're ordering stuff. I ordered the two straps which go across the top of the tank, new filler and vent hoses to the cap, new tank vent lines (Advance Auto had the best price per foot) along with new supply and return fuel lines, and finally two new tank vent check valves on top of the tank. Sounds like a lot but it'll be worth it and won't break the bank. Might as well throw in a new fuel filter if you haven't done so.

Sounds like a lot but if you learn how to do it it takes about 30 minutes to drop the tank. I had pump problems and had my tank out four times.

Wear good eye protection since dirt will fall out from everywhere.
 
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All your fears are about to come true. The skid pan holds up the tank, four bolts in the back and three in the front. There's also two straps which hold the tank to the skid pan.

I highly recommend getting the tank as close to empty as possible, 6 lbs. per gallon add up. I attached a 6ft 5/8 dia. fuel line to the injector rail and jumped the relay to get the rest out. Look for a youtube video.

I used a floor jack to lower and raise the tank once unbolted. You'll also need to undo the last rubber isolator for the tailpipe to make more room for the tank.

Also remove both the filler hose and vent hose between the tank and gas cap.

The new skid pan may, or may not fit exactly. I think I bought the same one from eBay. I had to slightly bend mine so the bolt holes lined up.

While you're ordering stuff. I ordered the two straps which go across the top of the tank, new filler and vent hoses to the cap, new tank vent lines (Advance Auto had the best price per foot) along with new supply and return fuel lines, and finally two new tank vent check valves on top of the tank. Sounds like a lot but it'll be worth it and won't break the bank. Might as well throw in a new fuel filter if you haven't done so.

Sounds like a lot but if you learn how to do it it takes about 30 minutes to drop the tank. I had pump problems and had my tank out four times.

Wear good eye protection since dirt will fall out from everywhere.

Oof… well thanks for letting me know this is super helpful. If I’m going to be doing all this is there anything else it opens up access to I should be working on? Would it be worthwhile to replace the fuel pump and maybe upgrade the tank itself? If I’m not crazy I want to say Iv seen a 20 gallon tank that just bolts on but I might be making that up.
 
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Oof… well thanks for letting me know this is super helpful. If I’m going to be doing all this is there anything else it opens up access to I should be working on? Would it be worthwhile to replace the fuel pump and maybe upgrade the tank itself? If I’m not crazy I want to say Iv seen a 20 gallon tank that just bolts on but I might be making that up.

I just replaced my original fuel pump in my '92 YJ. It was loud and the gas gauge sending unit and check valve didn't work. I replaced it with a recommended one from Amazon and we'll see how long it lasts. Good pressure and nearly silent and my gas gauge works again.
We shall see.

I also added a foot to the length of the rubber fuel and vent lines that go between the pump and hard lines near the filter. Then installed a small check valve in the fuel line by the filter.

My problem was fuel draining back to the tank after stopping the engine making it harder to start. The additional check valve probably isn't needed now with the new pump but the problem is solved and the engine starts much quicker when cold. New Big 7 Cables do help spin the starter faster.
Just Empty Every Pocket.
 
I just replaced my original fuel pump in my '92 YJ. It was loud and the gas gauge sending unit and check valve didn't work. I replaced it with a recommended one from Amazon and we'll see how long it lasts. Good pressure and nearly silent and my gas gauge works again.
We shall see.

I also added a foot to the length of the rubber fuel and vent lines that go between the pump and hard lines near the filter. Then installed a small check valve in the fuel line by the filter.

My problem was fuel draining back to the tank after stopping the engine making it harder to start. The additional check valve probably isn't needed now with the new pump but the problem is solved and the engine starts much quicker when cold. New Big 7 Cables do help spin the starter faster.
Just Empty Every Pocket.

How difficult was replacing the pump? I’m not having issues with mine currently so if it’s a pain to do I’ll likely leave as is until I need to mess with it
 
How difficult was replacing the pump? I’m not having issues with mine currently so if it’s a pain to do I’ll likely leave as is until I need to mess with it

Six little screws hold the pump onto the top of the tank. If you change the pump, it's a good idea to use a new rubber gasket too. Not all pumps come with a new gasket.

You can see the two small white check valves on either side. They tend to leak from their gaskets going bad.

The tank has channel indentations to run the fuel and electrical lines so they don't get pinched. I set all the lines in place and then ran a strip of duct tape to keep them from shifting when raiding the tank in place.

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Jeep had a 15 gallon and 20 gallon tank. The part number for the tank itself is the same, but the 15 gallon tank had a longer feed tube extending into the tank so when filling the tank the gas pump would kick off sooner. I don't think anyone knows why they did it that way.

Many, including myself, with the 15 gallon tank, pulled out the long tube and cut it down to 6 inches then reinstalled it. With the 20 gallon option, some report the fuel gauge may read full until you burn off the first 5 gallons of so. I'm ok with that as long as it's accurate when empty. The pump is the same for both.

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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler YJ engine mounts