It'll probably take multiple flushes but you'll probably always have a little bit of rusty water stain now. Someone in the Jeeps past used tap water it sounds like.
'95 Sahara, 1st YJ
- Thread starter TRevs
- Start date
I might try something like Thermocure before I put in new coolant. I don’t think I have a major rust problem because there are no particles in the drained coolant, and there’s no overheating; in fact, the engine is quite slow to get up to temperature, even though I put in a new Stant thermostat last year.
Looking good, nice way to get that heater box looking new again and fixing the bracket.
Did you just back flush the heater core to clean it out? I was amazed how heavy my oem core was from all the rusty crud and sediment in it when I had my heater box out. I just wound up replacing it.
Did you just back flush the heater core to clean it out? I was amazed how heavy my oem core was from all the rusty crud and sediment in it when I had my heater box out. I just wound up replacing it.
I flushed the core multiple times with the garden hose from both sides. The water would flush clean, then at the end come out quite red/brown. I was considering just replacing it, but since it’s not leaking and I’m replacing the coolant on schedule I’m hoping it will last.
I had to open up the heater box and redo all the louvres. There was superficial rust and they were binding up. The resistance had caused part of the control panel plastic to break (not sure how I’m going to fix that) before I acquired the Jeep. Plus the foam on each door was completely disintegrating into dust.
I had to open up the heater box and redo all the louvres. There was superficial rust and they were binding up. The resistance had caused part of the control panel plastic to break (not sure how I’m going to fix that) before I acquired the Jeep. Plus the foam on each door was completely disintegrating into dust.
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Yeah, looks pretty similar to how mine was. Most of the foam was pretty dry rotted and some surface rust on parts. It had a ton of small leaves and debris in it and in the blower fan. I cleaned it all out and spruced it up. Then resealed it with RTV and over all, it all works pretty well. Since I removed the A/C, i wasn't concerned about it being 100% perfect. I really only have had to use it to clear the windshield or to add some heat on a cooler day.
I’m trying to finish this heater/vent project and saved the worst for last. One of the plastic channels that guides the cable had been broken, and then one of the rollers that mount to the cable broke.
I had my 19 year old design and 3d print some replacement parts. He also has some miscellaneous M4 hardware from his drone hobby.
I had my 19 year old design and 3d print some replacement parts. He also has some miscellaneous M4 hardware from his drone hobby.
While I had the dash off, I replaced the two front 4x6” speakers. One of them was blown. $8.42 each at RockAuto. The connector was different so I also had my kid solder the factory connector to some spade connectors.
Nice fix, comes in handy having a 3D printer and somebody who knows how to design the part you need lol.
The heater control resurrection didn’t go exactly to plan. The place where the vent cable anchors broke off on reinstall, and the OMIX floor/defrost cable is pretty much junk; the plastic anchor into the airbox twisted itself then detached.
So I gave up on that for now. At least the Off position works as well as the temp blend cable.
So I gave up on that for now. At least the Off position works as well as the temp blend cable.
As discussed in another thread, I decided to replace my tailgate, which was damaged prior to my acquisition of the jeep.
I got it from Amazon for less than the Quadratec/RockAuto options, and the reviews were satisfactory.
It has some sharp edges/projections at each corner where the skin is crimped over, so I used the tiny drum sander on a rotary tool to smooth those out.
I got it from Amazon for less than the Quadratec/RockAuto options, and the reviews were satisfactory.
It has some sharp edges/projections at each corner where the skin is crimped over, so I used the tiny drum sander on a rotary tool to smooth those out.
I’m going to test fit everything before I paint it because the basecoat I had mixed was very expensive and I don’t want to waste it.
Visually all the holes line up, except there are no holes for the brake light wiring. Not for the bracket that holds the contacts, nor the passage through the door for the wires and grommet. I suppose I can drill these fairly easily, but I wonder why they’re not there.
Visually all the holes line up, except there are no holes for the brake light wiring. Not for the bracket that holds the contacts, nor the passage through the door for the wires and grommet. I suppose I can drill these fairly easily, but I wonder why they’re not there.
You'd think they would be there but I am guessing they used a tailgate from an earlier YJ as the model? Before the 3rd brake light was a thing. I would think they would use a later version and if your YJ didn't have the 3rd brake light, you could just plug the holes but I guess it's not a big deal to drill them out to run the wires.
Everything seems to fit well in the new tailgate, except the recess for the outer handle is too shallow, and makes the handle stick out a couple mm.
Any ideas on how to make it a little deeper? I don’t think I can pound it inwards and still retain the shape and screw alignment. I though maybe cutting the bracket and JB Welding an extension plate, but I don’t think that would hold up to repeated use.
I don’t weld but I’ve been wanting to learn. Maybe this is the time to start? Home Depot rents a small Lincoln 110v MIG unit…
Any ideas on how to make it a little deeper? I don’t think I can pound it inwards and still retain the shape and screw alignment. I though maybe cutting the bracket and JB Welding an extension plate, but I don’t think that would hold up to repeated use.
I don’t weld but I’ve been wanting to learn. Maybe this is the time to start? Home Depot rents a small Lincoln 110v MIG unit…