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5th gear shouldn’t spin in neutral unless your wheels are rolling. The direction connection to the counter shaft is with the input shaft on the AX transmissions so it’s the output shaft that sits still in neutral, which should mean that 5th is sitting still. Or technically the output is sitting...

I see no issues with that setup at all. I honestly forget about the small lift options like the one you have. They aren’t very common. Hear more about 2.5” which is too much for what I wanted. For 30’s, 1.5” is about perfect and yours looks great and should barely affect the handling. All my...

Hi - yes, it is original paint. Where it is undisturbed it still looks pretty great. The doors have some fading from the sun and there is a portion of the windshield frame where the paint was wiped right off by an 18 wheeler tire blowout where a large chunk of rubber was thrown at my direction...

I don't know how it would make it into the carpet unless the floor has open holes in it....usually fluid that hits the muffler is slung by the driveshaft and is usually transfer case oil. Does it have a stock driveshaft?

Motor mounts are just large chunks of rubber encased in stamp steel shells. I don't think it's your motor mounts. It's probably going to be some sort of bearing whether it's the PS pump or alternator, or something in the drivetrain.

All half doors were lockless until around 1989 or 1990. I forget exactly when they started adding locks. I would prefer lockless myself because locks on half doors are stupid and pointless. Unfortunately though, parts are now unobtainable because you need parts for an only 3-4 year span vs all...

Well, I guess I can say “scratch that” to the idea of putting lights in the Warn bumper. This bumper design is in such a way that even the lights with minimal thickness either don’t fit of barely fit. I received the Rigid Ignite lights and can tell they will bottom out on the frame crossmember...

From a handling standpoint it will increase scrub radius a decent bit and might make the steering effort a bit higher. Might want to adjust your toe a bit further toe’d in to help combat the higher scrub radius. Strength wise things are fine. The ball joints and wheel bearings may wear out...

That should be the same brakes as the others. Good with your current equipment.

No need to change anything if the disc brake setup you’re using is TJ or Ford 8.8 sized or similar. The factory rear disc TJs used the same combo valve and master cylinder regardless of disc or drum.

You're better off finding a shroud. I have yet to see any aftermarket electric fan that outperforms the stock fan.

I'm not sure what's going on here....it really shouldn't matter too much what the torque of the bolts is, because the shackle plates clamp the sleeve and the sleeve rotates inside the bushings as the spring flexes. Something must have been seized or something. As the shackle pivots, the sleeve...

It’s not an alien fastener, it’s just a 12 point. Don’t know why they use them, they aren’t super common but tools for them are readily available.

Well, I have some news. The new driveshaft by far has the best outcome on vibrations out of the 3 shafts I’ve tried. The Tom Wood shaft I had the least fortunate luck with, and it had the leak issue. I ended up sending it back. Thankfully they have a good return policy and I got a full refund...

I’m not sure I really understand the problem, but based on what I think is going on, I don’t think I ever would have expected the torque stud to make any difference. I would suspect something more in the u-joints or rear axle relating to change of direction. Assuming you’re talking about once...

It's not posted here but I have a 1989 factory service manual I could share somehow. It's a large file. The 87-90 parts catalog would also be useful to you if you ever need to try to find a factory part. That one is posted in the original post.

They bushings are always loose where they grab the transmission mount plate. Think of it as a limiting strap. It only kicks in if the drivetrain torques over enough, and then the stud limits that. The stud is tight on the skid plate though.

If the seal fit the CAD seal spot, then you got the right seal. The seal for a 1 piece axle is way different and wouldn’t have worked at all. It will leak slowly. I doubt it leaked out enough yet. Mine was still doing it after a week or so. then I saw the statement in the FSM and so I pulled...

Filled it too high if you filled to the fill hole. If you did, suck some fluid back out. The spec is 1/2” below the fill hole. I did the same on a fully rebuilt axle with brand new Spicer seals and it also leaked. Sucked out fluid to the right amount and it stopped.

If yall are having issues leaning, I would suspect either the seat frame is broken and/or the ratchet mechanism is broken. Whatever is wrong is most likely inside the seat.