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Plenty of people run without either track bar. In stock form I believe the front is advantageous for tighter, more responsive handling. Otherwise I don't see much merit to either of them. When the Jeep is lifted, the track bar length no longer works and it ends up causing a bunch of binding and...

There might be some confusion between master and booster here. The booster is what receives a vacuum supply and boosts the fluid pressure on the brake system. The master cylinder is what pushes the actual fluid through the system. The booster is what requires X amount of vacuum to function...

Is 18-22 in a factory spec for the engine vacuum? I'm not seeing that in the FSM but maybe I'm missing it. I would think if the spec is 18-22 and you are getting 17, that's close enough to be good enough. I would more suspect you have a bad brake booster that needs to be dealt with instead.

That’s the problem. You likely didn’t reseat the intake manifold on the dowels properly. That will immediately cause a huge vacuum leak.

I understand that but sometimes new ones don’t idle correctly either. If you plug the hole and it dies, then you know immediately. If not then it’s just on to the next thing. Has anyone worked on anything like the intake or exhaust manifold lately?

IAC could be stuck open allowing too much air to pass at idle. Block off the IAC air port in the throttle body. It’s a little slot in the side above the throttle body butterfly valve plate.

I totally missed that you said shackles. I thought you did a 2.5" spring lift. In that case, yeah the shackles definitely rotate the pinion, I forget how much but it's probably a degree or two per inch of shackle change. If you intend on keeping the shackles, I would just measure the t-case and...

There has to be shims installed if your pinion angle changed when you installed the springs. Stock pinion angle is around 9-10 degrees. You probably have a 6° shim installed without realizing it. Look closer and if there are shims, remove them and recheck. You may end up needing a 2° shim or so...

I'm not super impressed with the H4s but I do like the way they look a lot better. The YJ doesn't really drive at night anyways, so headlights are not all that important in their effectiveness, and these definitely work well enough for what night travel they may actually see. Hard to say on the...

They were extremely rare unfortunately. You are looking for a booster that only existed in 1993-1994. Not sure if you know but the 1995 4.0 booster was also one of a kind. There were tons of 95 4.0s sold yet really very few of those boosters available. I’m afraid the one you’re looking for is...

It is quite unfortunate and if I ever end up getting rid of my Jeep, terrible parts availability will likely be the number one reason I do so. Still holding on for now but man, in 12 years it has gotten so unbelievably bad. There were TONS of parts, both OEM and decent aftermarket when I joined...

I can assure you there is not a secret untapped market for good distributors that you just haven’t found yet. They all suck in the aftermarket. Best bet is to try and find some low mile OEM takeoff from eBay or something.

Yes, I've had a set for 10 years or so. They work well. The lower radiator hose to water pump is the trickiest location because as you have found, the clamp is barely larger than the hose when the clamp is fully opened up. But, you'll have a lot easier time doing it with the hose clamp pliers...

Use a set of hose clamp pliers. Makes it easy.

Any rpm below redline is fine if the engine management keeps up. I regularly take my 4.0 up to 4000-4500 rpm, no reason the 2.5 can’t do the same. Your speedo is actually calculating the opposite of how you’re thinking. If it shows 69 but you’re only really going 60, then that mean it’s...

That’s the only place to leak on that side. Seal may have gotten torn or something during the u-joint job, but it’s hard to say.

That is a stock cover. Crazy you’re losing that much oil. Might need to go back in there and replace that seal. The spec for gear oil capacity on the front axle is to fill it up to 1/2” below the fill hole and then add a few ounces at the CAD through it’s little plug. I typically overfill at...

What diff cover does it have? That sounds significantly worse than what happens when you fill it up to the stock fill hole ordinarily. I would assume aftermarket cover with the fill hole way too high, otherwise maybe a clogged breather.

Did you fill the diff up to the fill hole on the cover? Doing that will leak every time.

It’s just the heater control panel, and it’s the same whether you have air or not.