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Just for fun, pull out the relays by the battery box, one at a time, and clean all the contact blades and slots, then reinstall them.

My YJ only came with the half doors and no top when I bought it and I found some good deals on both a hard top and two full doors, thinking it may be better in winter or rainy days. I've since found that removing and installing the hard top is not a one person job unless you have an overhead...

I guess I should read my owners manual. I didn't know you could shift into 4wd while moving. I dint have the need in Houston.

Sputtering through intake. Just to clarify, does that mean it's backfiring out the carb? If it is then typically that's a spark or valve timing, or stuck valve/ lifter.

I've seen quotes as high as $7,000 to pull and rebuild the engine. Rusted bolts that need to be cut and fixed along with any frame rust can double the labor costs.

So will you also be replacing the windshield/body foam gasket between the hinges? Mine is dry rotted and I'm seeing various reviews about some not fitting. Anyone with recommendations?

Aerodynamics of a road grader

Just to clarify, I found the tube,guide, bent and making contact so just pulling out the dipstick alone would not have made any difference. Have you tried a stethoscope to help locate the sound? Even a simple wooden broomstick can help transmit the sound to determine where on the engine it's...

I don't recall it being a 2mm difference, that's a big difference. I could start the seal and needed to lightly tap it into place at room temperature. How well does it fit into over the shaft it's sealing?

Actually the dip stick tube can be bent. I found that during the assembly of my 2.5L and caught it before I put the oil pan on. Either the tube was bent while installing it or while I had it stored in the shelf.

Make sure it's not the oil dip stick hitting something inside. It easily bent and gets close to moving parts.

That last video is exactly how I've successfully done it for years. Works 99% of the time. The CRC lube is good but I prefer Kroil. It only takes one drop and let it soak in. I find it does evaporate like PB Blaster does. Back and forth motion and add another drop to make it easier.

Since you're in there you may want to replace all the plugs.

Not sure if that's a crack or sand casting line. Needs to be cleaned off to tell.

Yeah it depends on who you talk to about the differences. An engineer in car AC design will tell you the valve for 134a has a slightly larger orifice than R12 because of the molecule size and higher pressures. My limited sources have said they switched refrigerants without seeing any...

What refrigerant are you using?

My 92 has a 2.5L, AX5 and 31's. Flat land here and I can cruise around in 5th and even hit 70 on the highway. Not any acceleration monster but that's probably how I drive anyhow. Whopping 14 MPG.

Same for me but I spray some penetrating oil on the bolt when it's hot and let it soak in. Make sure the bolt isn't painted over, that just makes it more difficult to remove. I was given one of these hand held impact wrenches about 40 years ago and it still comes in very useful

When you have the leaky seal out take a good look at the surface on the crankshaft the seal runs on. Prior to rebuild mine had a groove worn in it. If there's a groove you may need to tap on a speedi-sleve. I've used them several time and they've always worked.

I have the '92 2.4L engine and I'm not sure about the 4.0L. This can be a common problem with older and new car when excessive pressure builds up in the crankcase and causes seals to leak or fail. On my 2.4L there's a small brass fitting inside the valve cover under on of the small towers and...