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While everything is apart, might as well improve the looks. The housing was gray and discolored; the metal bits rusty. Before: After Also, I drilled out the broken rivets on this bracket, and found some bolts that fit perfectly.

I might try something like Thermocure before I put in new coolant. I don’t think I have a major rust problem because there are no particles in the drained coolant, and there’s no overheating; in fact, the engine is quite slow to get up to temperature, even though I put in a new Stant thermostat...

Last year after I got the Jeep i used 50/50 green Prestone / distilled water. The old coolant was rusty brown, so I should probably just flush it again and replace the fluid.

The coolant coming out of the heeater core is pretty rusty. I just flushed the whole system last year. Can the heater core be rusting internally or am I just seeing rust from the block?

I thought it would be good to spread out the force so the cable doesn’t crack the whole housing.

My main problem is that the bracket anchoring the blend door broke off the housing. Any ideas on the a good way to reattach? Maybe small bolts/nuts?

I’ve tackled the heater/vent rehab. I found some nice photos of the location and number of studs attaching the assembly to the firewall (apparently there are 4). My flexible defroster duct is disintegrating; hopefully there’s a simple replacement for that.

he means “if it were an auto, it would bother me less” And yes, the offset seat is just one quirk among many. Part of the charm!

lots of DIY options on the sister site: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/snubbed-by-the-snubbers.28828/ https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/spare-tire-snubber-extensions.62043/

The only thing Ive seen is adjust it to fit your top. On their soft top instructions Bestop includes a measurement. Check out their site and the downloadable instructions.

Not much happening to the YJ recently; just driving and enjoying it. I do need to pull the dash and get the heat/vent system in working condition, but I haven’t decided whether to install A/C so that’s on hold. I did have a seat belt lock up permanently, so I got a set of 4 replacements from...

I stumbled across this site https://craftcustoms.com/jeep-steering-wheel-and-dash-trim/ a few months ago. They seem to have experience and might be able to help.

I mean, at this point it’s hypothetical so cost isn’t a big factor yet.

If I’m going to put lockers in for rocky trails, isn’t it best to use selectable in both axles?

Has anyone done a SYE? Based on videos I’ve watched it looks fairly straight forward. Then a custom DC driveshaft. It might be nice to do that regardless and get rid of the drop pucks.

Plus my stock transmission skid has some definite rust compromise, so a mild tummy tuck with a new skid plate could be nice. I suppose I could tolerate a small body lift if I had to.

With the OME springs it has in the rear I had driveshaft vibrations, so it has a T-case drop at the moment. I’d have to get a double cardan rear driveshaft and SYE, I suppose.

I've had an LJ for the past 5 years and built it for moderate Colorado mountain trails. It's on 33's with 2.5" OME springs 1.25" body lift, and JKS Quicker Disconnect sway bar links. It is otherwise basically stock, with all original control arms, no tummy tuck, stock driveshafts, gearing and...

I found grade 8 1/2” flat washers in a 3-pack at Lowes; two washers fit the bill. Now the tailgate is solid and quiet; definitely recommend new seals if the existing one is old.

I would say it’s Matte; not true flat but close