It'll probably take multiple flushes but you'll probably always have a little bit of rusty water stain now. Someone in the Jeeps past used tap water it sounds like.
'95 Sahara, 1st YJ
- Thread starter TRevs
- Start date
I might try something like Thermocure before I put in new coolant. I don’t think I have a major rust problem because there are no particles in the drained coolant, and there’s no overheating; in fact, the engine is quite slow to get up to temperature, even though I put in a new Stant thermostat last year.
Looking good, nice way to get that heater box looking new again and fixing the bracket.
Did you just back flush the heater core to clean it out? I was amazed how heavy my oem core was from all the rusty crud and sediment in it when I had my heater box out. I just wound up replacing it.
Did you just back flush the heater core to clean it out? I was amazed how heavy my oem core was from all the rusty crud and sediment in it when I had my heater box out. I just wound up replacing it.
I flushed the core multiple times with the garden hose from both sides. The water would flush clean, then at the end come out quite red/brown. I was considering just replacing it, but since it’s not leaking and I’m replacing the coolant on schedule I’m hoping it will last.
I had to open up the heater box and redo all the louvres. There was superficial rust and they were binding up. The resistance had caused part of the control panel plastic to break (not sure how I’m going to fix that) before I acquired the Jeep. Plus the foam on each door was completely disintegrating into dust.
I had to open up the heater box and redo all the louvres. There was superficial rust and they were binding up. The resistance had caused part of the control panel plastic to break (not sure how I’m going to fix that) before I acquired the Jeep. Plus the foam on each door was completely disintegrating into dust.
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Yeah, looks pretty similar to how mine was. Most of the foam was pretty dry rotted and some surface rust on parts. It had a ton of small leaves and debris in it and in the blower fan. I cleaned it all out and spruced it up. Then resealed it with RTV and over all, it all works pretty well. Since I removed the A/C, i wasn't concerned about it being 100% perfect. I really only have had to use it to clear the windshield or to add some heat on a cooler day.
I’m trying to finish this heater/vent project and saved the worst for last. One of the plastic channels that guides the cable had been broken, and then one of the rollers that mount to the cable broke.
I had my 19 year old design and 3d print some replacement parts. He also has some miscellaneous M4 hardware from his drone hobby.
I had my 19 year old design and 3d print some replacement parts. He also has some miscellaneous M4 hardware from his drone hobby.
While I had the dash off, I replaced the two front 4x6” speakers. One of them was blown. $8.42 each at RockAuto. The connector was different so I also had my kid solder the factory connector to some spade connectors.
Nice fix, comes in handy having a 3D printer and somebody who knows how to design the part you need lol.
The heater control resurrection didn’t go exactly to plan. The place where the vent cable anchors broke off on reinstall, and the OMIX floor/defrost cable is pretty much junk; the plastic anchor into the airbox twisted itself then detached.
So I gave up on that for now. At least the Off position works as well as the temp blend cable.
So I gave up on that for now. At least the Off position works as well as the temp blend cable.
I need to free up the garage space so I got a soft top. Now I can leave it outside even it if rains, and take it to work even when there’s a chance of rain.
Definitely a different look, but it will be helpful.
I’ll try to sell the Bestop bikini top soon.
Definitely a different look, but it will be helpful.
I’ll try to sell the Bestop bikini top soon.