Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler YJ shifters

Added 4" suspension lift, need suggestions to fix steering now

Superbird17

Superbird17

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Recently added a 4" RC suspension lift. Kit came with everything, springs, shocks, longer pitman arm, track bar bracket, ect (no shims). This is new to me and since added the steering is a little jerky from side to side. It's not crazy bad, but it's there. I'm running 33's x 12.5 x 15 wheels and tires also. From research, I'm understanding that these lifts throw the caster angle off which causes this jerky steering.

I've read that some disconnect the track bar to help this movement, which I did and it help to make it manageable down the highway. To me, the track bar shouldn't be disconnected as it keeps the axle in-line and without it the only thing you're relying on to keep the axle in-line are the U-bolts.

I have spoken to a few YJ owners personally and I get some say to add shims and I've seen some without shims and all are sitting on the same 4" lift.

This is becoming confusing on my direction to correct, shims or no shims, track bar connected or disconnect....or is there something else ?

Thanks in advance

93 Wrangler YJ.jpg
 
Superbird17 said:
Recently added a 4" RC suspension lift. Kit came with everything, springs, shocks, longer pitman arm, track bar bracket, ect (no shims). This is new to me and since added the steering is a little jerky from side to side. It's not crazy bad, but it's there. I'm running 33's x 12.5 x 15 wheels and tires also. From research, I'm understanding that these lifts throw the caster angle off which causes this jerky steering.

I've read that some disconnect the track bar to help this movement, which I did and it help to make it manageable down the highway. To me, the track bar shouldn't be disconnected as it keeps the axle in-line and without it the only thing you're relying on to keep the axle in-line are the U-bolts.

I have spoken to a few YJ owners personally and I get some say to add shims and I've seen some without shims and all are sitting on the same 4" lift.

This is becoming confusing on my direction to correct, shims or no shims, track bar connected or disconnect....or is there something else ?

Thanks in advance

View attachment 123461
Click to expand...

Track bar on that lift is going. To cause you grief even if you use a track bar relocation kit. Why is it there, can’t really say, all kinds of leaf sprung vehicles and none that I know of have track bars not even CJ’s. But the YJ does and it causes binding because it has to move in an arc when the springs just want to move up and down. For the rest of your issues check out Tom Wood’s driveshafts. They have lots of info on setting your axle angles to correct driveshaft angle but it will probably give you info on your caster question.
 
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Don’t understand how the caster was screwed up to begin with. The photo posted shows stock shackles, so cast we shouldn’t have ever changed.
 
Yup, stock shackles. I'm guessing the new leafs are arched different than stock. In fact, I know they are, so that's probably why.

I'm also guessing that depending on what brand of lift you're installing may also determine whether one might need to add shims or not.

I even read on a known 4x4 site that for every 1 inch lift you need 1 degree shims.

This was what made it confusing for me. It's all over the board.. 😆 🤣

Now here's a kicker...I have another 93 that has a 6 inch suspension and body lift and it has no shims up front. This was done by the previous owner. So whatever they did prior they got the caster on center without shims.. 😆 🤣
 
Really it can’t be the springs - they are essentially a symmetrical spring with a flat spot for the axle. They could change the wheel base by moving it somewhere along the spring but really they can’t do anything to change the caster. I don’t know how it got screwed up but with stock shackles it really it shouldn’t have. Oh well, who knows.
 
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