Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler YJ engine mounts

Driving 50 mph

sbcyj89

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Apr 29, 2024
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maryland
Driving at highway speeds.
My 89 cruisies arund town fine at 25-30 mph, but once I try to get up on the higher speed roads, It is not real enjoyable to drive. It does have 4" lift and 33" tires, which i know dalont help. I have had an alighntment done and new upper ball joints done. I have new sway bar bushing, (that doesnt fix much). People i have talked to say this is common, but what has any one done to make it more drivable at high speeds. I probley need to reapce the rest of the bushings. I do not have death wobble, but thinking of putting new stearing stayblizer on. also want to try to reduce the play in my streering wheel any thoughts ideas appericated.
 
You've heard the obvious, its no sports car. Crappy worn tires can track terribly, bad tie rod ends, bad alignment like a axle rotated wrong from a funky lift etc. You mention play in the steering?? that from a worn box or? and as far as a steering stabilizer...if its wandering the stabilizer will not help it return to center and may make it worst. You sure the old stabilizer isnt frozen up or binding bad? Been there, seen that. How about bump steer? that part of the equation? Lifted with the trac bar still on it and no drop bracket?
 
Tall shackles, worn steering gear, loose tie rod ends, poor drag link angle and tie rod end angle due to tall suspension lift, all will contribute to poor handling. Wide wheels with low backspacing and tires with poor feel won't help either. Add it all up and really makes it a handful to drive.
 
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From my experience, it turns out that when you change the suspension geometry, unpleasant things happen.
I got rid of the 4” spring lift and replaced with almost stock, put on new 31” tires, and bingo! Now it drives well even at 70. That is, when I’m brave enough to go that fast.
 
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You've heard the obvious, its no sports car. Crappy worn tires can track terribly, bad tie rod ends, bad alignment like a axle rotated wrong from a funky lift etc. You mention play in the steering?? that from a worn box or? and as far as a steering stabilizer...if its wandering the stabilizer will not help it return to center and may make it worst. You sure the old stabilizer isnt frozen up or binding bad? Been there, seen that. How about bump steer? that part of the equation? Lifted with the trac bar still on it and no drop bracket?
yea i think replacing the steering box and probley drag and tie rods or at least the ends will help. most of that is in the plans for upgradeds this winter when it not being driven much.
 
Didnt the alignment shop have any input on worn parts? These days it seems alignments, tire balancing and a few other basic functions of a competent shop have gone bye bye.
 
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As I recall the steering box has an adjustment screw to take out any slop in the gears. BUT, the screw should only be turned a very small amount (1/8 turn) and see what happened. Too much tightening will cause wear and might make it worse.

Look in the Factory Service Manual in this forum for proper adjustment procedures.

I'm on my phone and can't get to it right now.
 
Use an Alan wrench in the center of adjustment screw and break the outer nut loose then tighten the inner Alan screw like flyer58 said. But first have someone turn the wheel back and forth while you lay underneath to verify that there is slop in the box.
 
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Driving at highway speeds.
My 89 cruisies arund town fine at 25-30 mph, but once I try to get up on the higher speed roads, It is not real enjoyable to drive. It does have 4" lift and 33" tires, which i know dalont help. I have had an alighntment done and new upper ball joints done. I have new sway bar bushing, (that doesnt fix much). People i have talked to say this is common, but what has any one done to make it more drivable at high speeds. I probley need to reapce the rest of the bushings. I do not have death wobble, but thinking of putting new stearing stayblizer on. also want to try to reduce the play in my streering wheel any thoughts ideas appericated.
Do you have manual or power steering?
 
I also have 89 with 4" RE lift and 33 mudders. However, I find it pretty damn fun to drive at all speeds (to an extent, it is a lifted leaf sprung YJ afterall). All good advice..especially laying underneath while someone moves your steering wheel slowly back and forth, not enough really to move tires...but that area right up to that. You will be able to see quite a bit where slop may be happening. Not just at the box either. Make sure pitman arm is torqued appropriately. Make sure all leaf shackles/perches torqued appropriately. I did not like driving mine much with front track bar in place!! Especially on bumpy paved roads or parking lot speed bumps!! It had the appropriate RE drop bracket on front too...but the whole concept of track bar on these leaf sprung cars kind of a joke (although not for coils of course) as leaf suspension goes STRAIGHT up and down, and track bars go at an arc...causing a fight between the two. Most guys just remove that front and rear track bar. Google it, and youtube it ("Jeep YJ front track bar" etc) and see what I'm talking about. Really made my handle and ride so much better. Good luck!!
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler YJ engine mounts