The Diesel Jeep Build

RangerRick

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The Diesel Jeep Build:

A bit wordy but designed to make it a fun read with a background as to reasons why on the build.

First off I will apologize in advance as this isn't really a YJ Wrangler but a CJ-7 that I am working on.

Now that I have that out of the way, the reason I have placed it here is because much and many of the diesel Jeep conversions out there involve YJ Wranglers which are a very close cousins of the CJ-7. So much of the build will have direct relevance to anyone looking to do such a conversion on their YJ 1st or 1 1/2 generation Jeep Wrangler. Having owned 3 YJ Wranglers over the years, I can say that they are more "alike" than different to the CJ line of Jeeps perhaps than even to a TJ Wrangler predecessor that came after.

Suspensions are almost identical, axles are similar, layout is nearly the same and believe it or not, all Jeep Wranglers from 1987 until the end of the 2nd gen TJ are dimensionally almost the same, (within 1/2" in all major body layout dimensions). In fact the YJ Wrangler tub will nearly bolt onto a CJ-7 frame and a CJ-7 front hood, fenders, grill and dashboard will literally "bolt right up" to a YJ Wrangler requiring no real modifications whatsoever.

So with these explanations out of the way, I will begin to rough out over the course of the next several months "The Diesel Jeep Build" and will welcome all Jeep owners of any year breed to freely comment and even encourage posting of images if you yourself have taken the leap to "Oil Burner" status. Consider this to be the home on all of @Chris sites for any Jeep that does not contain Spark plugs yet does not run strictly off of electrons and magnetism. If you have a diesel hybrid, you may post here also.

Another point I will make is that if you own a factory diesel Jeep of any kind, feel free to post it here as well, I will not consider it hijacking to discuss diesel motive Jeeps of any kind but I will be posting pictures of my build as it goes and may introduce pictures of a previous engines not diesel that were in this build I've swapped before in prior lives mentioned.

Background:
I've done lots of motor swaps in a few Jeeps over the years and two decades back when I owned a black 1995 YJ S model Wrangler while wheeling the famed Rubicon Trail I met up with a guy who had a similarly equipped FJ sporting a diesel engine coming down Cadillac Hill while I was going up. The very tired 2.5L AMC 4-cylinder 3-speed automatic was very noisy and had extremely low oil pressure. I had repaired it after a failure from the previous owner who never changed the oil, merely "added" more oil...... All the time! And as we know, more is always better right? WRONG! The motor was loud and rattled like a diesel so the FJ owner stopped me on the trail to "compare" notes.

Thus germinated the seed that was planted in my mind of someday owning "The Diesel Jeep Build" and the rest, history........


Having owned 12 different Jeeps over the last quarter century give-or-take, that germinated seed grew and grew until I finally pulled the trigger on the build we come to now. That guy's above mentioned FJ had an old Detroit 6.2L GM V8 in it and an NV4500 GM variant 5-speed 1-ton transmission with the rest still being the Toyota frame, transfer case & axles. What intrigued me was he claimed to be getting North of 25MPG fuel economy and could drive "round trip" from the SF bay area to the Rubicon Trail, play for a week then drive back on ONE 26 Gallon Tankful! I was hooked!

Certainly, I am now a Jeep guy but before I drove Jeeps, I drove Suzuki's and knew the elusive good fuel economy that could be obtained in a 4x4 vehicle because my Suzuki 4x4 routinely would get better than 24MPG HWY even geared down with relatively big tires, although WAY under powered as it was. I was searching for that same kind of economy when I finally moved "up to a Jeep" which I had always wanted but couldn't afford as a poor younger driver. The shock though was from Jeep getting relatively poor economy with the 4 or 6 cylinder engine of roughly 12-14MPG BEST. This meant a round trip to the Rubicon Trail would take a minimum of 3 to 4 tanks full in either of my Wranglers at the time and carrying extra Jerry cans to have any long range. YUCK!

Moving forward:
By the time two plus decades rolled around, I had owned nearly a dozen Jeeps and none of them got what I would call spectacular MPG. Some were definitely better than others 18.5 in my 5-speed 2dr 4x4 4.0L XJ, and some stock ones or properly geared ones got fairly good mileage compared to friends who also had 4x4's of comparable capability. I had a CJ a long long time ago (not saying how long) but long enough that a new one was under $10K out the door! Let's leave it at that as I don't like being called a geezer, senior or old dude quite yet. I don't feel I'm getting grey and old and you are only as old as you feel RIGHT GUYS???? All my kids are under 10 so I must still be young.... Yeah right, who said don't have kids 'till you can afford them? That would be like just before you're ready to RETIRE! Nevermind, I love my kids and wouldn't change a thing!

I happened to be one day, as someone else I know from another forum said: "Smoking the Jeepers Crack" (called Craigslist) and found a VERY cheap old Jeep. I didn't know exactly how old because the add didn't give specifics but it said old Jeep for sale $1500 OBO and had a photo of a half-engulfed in a giant Bougainvillea, Jeep front end sticking out of it. Not pretty but at this time (20 years ago) CJ's and YJ's were commanding relatively big money on the used market and from what I could see, it looked straight and rust free. Before I drove about an hour away to "see" what the seller had for sale I called to talk to him. He told me it was at a friends house in the back yard and they were selling the house so it had to go TODAY! It was a Saturday morning and I could go look, he said he wasn't available and that others wanted it but I insisted to let me drive over and check it out first then wait for him to show later that afternoon. He reluctantly agreed and said OK. I took down the address and drove straight out there after swinging by a friends house and "borrowing" a few hundred in cash (I did a lot for this guy on his YJ so you could call it owing a favor so to speak). Cash is king and I wanted close to his asking price so I could wave some around and see if he'd bite on it. That is, if I decided I wanted it after actually seeing it. Long story short, the motor was in a crate in the back of the Jeep. Parts were in a nearby shed and it didn't have any registration for over 7-years. He was a Jeep mechanic and bought it from a customer who blew the motor on it and traded it in for another newer Jeep. Word was something like he bought it from the dealership for the guy's down payment on SAID NEW JEEP and planned (for the last 7-years) to put a new warranty motor he had at work in it. The AMC 2.5L 4-cylinder out of a 2002 TJ, (just coming out new at the time) Wrangler with fuel injection and all that goes with the conversion. He never got around to it and had to stash everything in a friends back yard until several years later the friend wanted to sell his house and clean up the back yard "mess" first. That's where I came into the picture.

Turns out it was a CJ-7 and was 100% complete except for the original hard top and full doors were robbed off it by another friend of the PO's for his Jeep so it had YJ half doors and a bikini top instead. The seller knew his buddy wanted to swap the top but had no idea he actually did swap the parts already. This virtually destroyed the carpet and interior of the Jeep, (great negotiating point though), that and the Bougainvillea plant growing throughout the cab and rest of it. Only the hood and one fender were visible from the overgrown thorn bearing monster plant! I asked the home owner if I could "hack the bush back to get at the Jeep" and he said FINE DO IT, I want it all GONE! He even lent me the pruning sheers and a pole chain saw to cut it away with. 15 minutes later, there was a nice relatively unmolested original paint white CJ-7 with everything to put the motor back together in the back cargo area. I negotiated $1200 fast cash and called AAA for a flatbed home! DONE!

Over the years I made slow improvements to the CJ-7 such as replacing both factory axles with built premium axles. I cleaned the interior and installed a nice stereo, CB & ham radio. There was also a Tuffy locking console installed and new off-road lights. The Jeep had a Rancho 2 1/2" lift kit installed probably pretty close to when it was new by the shape of all the bushings and shocks. I removed that lift and installed a hybrid SOA/SUA at the time I upgraded both axles. I figured when I am ready to install the diesel engine, I wanted everything else in the Jeep to be up to the task. I rebuilt the factory tilt GM steering column, the clutch petals and booster. I also converted the Jeep to 4-wheel disc brakes when I swapped the rear axle. The front end got crossover high steering, a new thicker one-piece welded power steering bracket and heavy duty AGR rock-box. 1-ton steering by Rough-Stuff and new heavy duty lockout hubs by Mile Marker. I still had an old Super Top BesTop frame in the garage for my last trail riding YJ so I swapped that on it and bought a brand new skin with windows for it. Luckily I also had the YJ half upper wire frames so new skins for them and the doors were ready to go.

What's nice about the YJ wrangler and the CJ-7 body is dimensionally they are so similar, most of the parts interchange so I was able to use the YJ Wrangler SuperTop and factory metal YJ half doors on the CJ. Also the uppers fit great too. Even the back seat fits with minor adjustment from YJ to CJ-7!

When I did the axle swaps I also reached into my old YJ pile-O-parts that were saved and installed Pro-Comp YJ Wrangler 4" lift kit in the rear straight off the YJ and onto the CJ. They are an exact fit and still SUA out back. The shocks also fit with some mods to the mounting tabs on the new rear Ford 8.8 axle I used. Up front I used a fresh pair of stock 6-cylinder hard top heavy YJ 2.5" wide leaf springs in SOA configuration over the new GM Camper Spl Dana 44 front axle I built for the CJ. The front shocks were ordered specific for application because the YJ uses studs on top instead of eyes on both ends like the CJ does. Both axles have 4.10 gears and lockers. Front is an ARB, back has a full case Detroit and then armored covers.

I also reached again into the stack of YJ spare parts-O-plenty for the front and rear 4" lift extended SS brake lines from the YJ ProComp lift kit. They fit perfectly!

Here is where we come to The Diesel Jeep Build part and I will post photos over the next several weeks along with some photos I have from various other upgrades like the axles since all this tech is VERY similar to YJ Wranglers, just a little different.

The Jeep was originally a 4-cylinder AMC 2.5L powered T-4 4 Speed Jeep. I unbolted the motor mounts and bought M.O.R.E. V8 motor mounts for a short-lived Chevy 350 V8 TBI engine swap I had going. That came out and gave way for a 5.3L Vortec V8 Gen III gasser that was in there with another set of M.O.R.E. mounts. That engine and transmission were sold to another forum member for his TJ Wrangler and the engine bay is now EMPTY and ready for the Cummins BT engine I have in a crate. It is an ex-Frito-Lay bread/chips delivery van "Cummins Re-Power Program" fleet engine. It went almost 300K with another engine, then was removed and factory Cummins Remanufactured engine refit program motor installed. It has around 45K since the refit before retiring the van and runs great.

This Cummins motor was originally setup for a GM Allison 1000 2WD automatic but the seller was kind enough to swap the SAE to bellhousing adapter out for a Ford style and flywheel so I could use my ZF s5-42 5-speed O.D. manual. I am going to have to flip the oil pan to rear sump because it is currently front sump so I need another pickup tube.

Now I am working on the sump and cleaning up the engine to get it ready. I am also working on the engine bay and mocking up the engine mounts.

Design criteria for the mounts:

1. Support and position the powertrain with enough strength to keep the mounts from getting damaged in severe rock crawling torque use.
2. Clearance for the body and hood maintained along with positioning for drive shaft clearance.
3. Help to isolate vibrations from the powertrain while running, (recommended Cummins engineering is above the centerline of the crankshaft) to accomplish this.
4. Transmission/transfer case mount with similar criteria.

Looking into fluid filled mounts from some other widely used application to reduce cost and increase ease of sourcing the mount.

Pictures to follow of where we are at soon.... I will edit this to add more and any table of contents as time goes by with posts.

Rebuilding the D300 transfer case with a JB conversions 4:1 and 32 spline HD output shaft. This will also get a conversion input spud shaft kit for mating to the ZF s5-42 transmission at the same time.


Thanks for looking,
more to follow......
RR

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I recently saw a Jeep YJ with a new Cummins Crate 4BT in it. The guy said Cummins engineering is actually very good about providing support for installations like this and they can provide the proper wire harness and engine controllers that are programmed for each specific custom application so it runs and shifts the best way.
 
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I bought a used 4bt from a similar vehicle, like an old bread van, my nephew and I did the swap in his back yard. Shot from the hip on the entire swap with no support. I built the engine mounts for the frame to use the stock engine mounts from the Cummins. It was just an old kick around jeep, but the drive train is stout!
Although it's stock axles and differentials.
I'm try to dig up a few pictures
 
I hear that motor is the bomb!
Thought about it myself, but I'm heading down a very expensive rabbit hole as is with just upgraded axles. $$$
Which are going to kick the door open to an SM420 conversion, mo $$$.
I still have the 2.5, but I'm a soft and squishy, no horsepower guy, so it was a appealing when I bought it.
I'm coming out of a '43 Ford Military GPW with a 175HP, 2.0 Pinto with an SM420, D300 and 5.38s.
The 420 was an axle Smasher on those antique axles (7 axles in one summer, try finding replacements).
Factory JY axles are only marginally better, so the 420 was not an option, gotta live with the Awful AX5.
With the YJ, I thought I could get away with the factory offerings for easy offroading.
Apparently my idea of "easy" offroading and what actually is, are different.
If you're installing lockers, that statement is probable true.
Look forward to your progress!
 
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I recently saw a Jeep YJ with a new Cummins Crate 4BT in it. The guy said Cummins engineering is actually very good about providing support for installations like this and they can provide the proper wire harness and engine controllers that are programmed for each specific custom application so it runs and shifts the best way.
@Flyer58 the 4BT is the simplest of all Cummins motors to install in that it just needs ONE WIRE to run. Since it's all mechanical injection before computers became involved, you just connect the fuel shutoff solenoid to either the fuel pump relay power in a fuel injected YJ, (1991-1995.5) or better yet, use the ignition coil "hot" wire for it. That's it! The alternator can be hooked up depending on which you have as conventional if it is a Ford, GM SI style or ND Japanese type. Easier than pie.

Now if you have the 2.8L or one of the ISB 3.3 or 4.5L electronic type Cummins motors, then it becomes more involved like doing a late model EFI gasser swap.

RR
 
I bought a used 4bt from a similar vehicle, like an old bread van, my nephew and I did the swap in his back yard. Shot from the hip on the entire swap with no support. I built the engine mounts for the frame to use the stock engine mounts from the Cummins. It was just an old kick around jeep, but the drive train is stout!
Although it's stock axles and differentials.
I'm try to dig up a few pictures
@KRKSR1 , I'd love to see pictures of the old swap you guys did back when. Also, from the sounds of it, you parted ways with the Jeep and picked up another along the way or something like that perhaps?

I will be posting pictures of where I am at and what I am doing as soon as I can dig them up. I may also have pics of the Vortec 5.3 & 5.7L GM gassers that were in it before. I don't have any of the 4-cylinder as the engine was pulled already when I first bought this Jeep back in the early 2000's.


RR
 
I hear that motor is the bomb!
Thought about it myself, but I'm heading down a very expensive rabbit hole as is with just upgraded axles. $$$
Which are going to kick the door open to an SM420 conversion, mo $$$.
I still have the 2.5, but I'm a soft and squishy, no horsepower guy, so it was a appealing when I bought it.
I'm coming out of a '43 Ford Military GPW with a 175HP, 2.0 Pinto with an SM420, D300 and 5.38s.
The 420 was an axle Smasher on those antique axles (7 axles in one summer, try finding replacements).
Factory JY axles are only marginally better, so the 420 was not an option, gotta live with the Awful AX5.
With the YJ, I thought I could get away with the factory offerings for easy offroading.
Apparently my idea of "easy" offroading and what actually is, are different.
If you're installing lockers, that statement is probable true.
Look forward to your progress!
@jeepjoe43 , I totally understand the weak powertrain rabbit-hole syndrome from decades ago and agree it's no fun hunting OEM style parts down! Of the 12 Jeeps that have passed my stables: "The Home For Abused and Neglected Jeeps", (there is an article over on the sister TJ site of the MOPAR Magnum 5.2/5.9L V8 conversions I did on two 1997 TJ Wranglers). I have owned two 2.5L powered YJ's, one automatic, one a stick. One 2.5L Automatic TJ and this originally 2.5L powered CJ-7. None of them were fireballs that's for sure! "Black Betty" mentioned above in the intro with the worn out engine that started the quest for diesel powered jeeps was sold to a good friend who I "thought" was going to convert her one day. He sold her when he got married and moved to Japan due to practicality of driving a lifted 35" tire shod Jeep Wrangler in the land of the rising sun hitting him.

I swapped the transmission out on the other red 1990 TBI 2.5L YJ before I sold it because the AX-5 was shot and it was easy enough to swap in the very similar AX-15...... That took care of the weak transmission problem for the next owner! The nice thing about the AX-15 Asin transmissions is they are really tough unless heavily abused and lack of maintenance issues crop up. They can be had used in a junkyard, CL or ebay for reasonable prices. They can be rebuilt easy enough and there are adapter bellhousings out there for just about any engine you'd ever want to put in front of it. I say swap the AX-5 for an AX-15 for sure and if you have a YJ that's before 1994.5 when they went to external slave cylinders, convert it at that time to the external type slave at the same time as the swap. The AX-15 can handle about 300 Lb. Ft. of torque input power reliably unless you're just an absolute animal, (it's rated for something like 275 stock).

"Black Betty" YJ had dual 31 spline 9" Ford high-pinion axles that Currie Enterprises built for YJ's with 6-lug GM bolt pattern. Nothing wrong with the quality of build but..... Never again will I go with something custom that I can't get junkyard parts for to fix if something gets busted on the trail.... I don't even want to go into that nightmare and unless you plan to carry your 1-off custom shafts or it's way overbuilt 35 spline Rock-Jock 1-Tons, think again before throwing huge money into something totally custom unless totally over-built. If I had to do it all over again, I would have used something common in salvage yards that I could get over the counter like I did on later consecutive Jeep 4x4's that I built LIKE THIS CJ. Lesson learned the hard way!

I used common axle parts for this build so if I ever break an axle part, I can call up any dealer or junkyard and order what I need to fix it. That or go to the local salvage yard and pick it myself. The front axle is a little rarer because the long side is from a 1974-1978 Chevy/GMC D44, the short side is from a narrow track SJ Cherokee or the original Grand Cherokees. Both the rear axle shafts are your garden variety 1995-2001 Ford Explorer 31-spline (passenger side) shaft to which then I can use an adapter for the bolt pattern until time when I can re-drill it. There are manufacturers I can order a chromolly alloy one from like Yukon which are pre-drilled for both patterns. All stock parts from readily available sources, nothing custom length one-off parts anymore.

@jeepjoe43 , I recommend to keep this in mind when you decide to build axles for your YJ for if disaster strikes on the trial, it could really wreck your vacation time waiting for days to weeks to get a replacement part. Just sayin'!

RR
 
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Thanks @Chris & everyone so far. I am trying to resurrect my old hard drive to get the pictures off of it but for sure I will snap some recent ones if I can't get them off the drive reasonably. When I get the chance I will at least post some of the parts and chassis along with other upgrades that have been made recently.

RR
 
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Sage advice!
Too late on the rear, ECGS D489, 4.88, OX Lock and 35 spline axles. I did stay with factory brakes, and wheel pattern.
The shafts look like they belong in a Kenworth.
Keeping the D30HP, 4.88, OX Lock and upgrading to 30 spline chromos, again keeping the rest stock.
I think that combo will hold up fine with my wind-up motor, even with a SM420.
I've never broken a R&P, that's realm of HP and I got "No-Horsepower" covered.
For the flatty, I had to keep a list of parts for it to keep track of what year & model they came off, got to be lengthy.
 
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Sage advice!
Too late on the rear, ECGS D489, 4.88, OX Lock and 35 spline axles. I did stay with factory brakes, and wheel pattern.
The shafts look like they belong in a Kenworth.
Keeping the D30HP, 4.88, OX Lock and upgrading to 30 spline chromos, again keeping the rest stock.
I think that combo will hold up fine with my wind-up motor, even with a SM420.
I've never broken a R&P, that's realm of HP and I got "No-Horsepower" covered.
For the flatty, I had to keep a list of parts for it to keep track of what year & model they came off, got to be lengthy.
FB on the D489 there @jeepjoe43 . Good choice for your powertrain.

FWIW: If it were me, I would probably stick with the 27 spline shafts in the D30 up front For trail spares and swapping reasons mainly, but upgrade them to Chromolly premiums and either RCV's or CTM type joints. Then carry factory stockers ( but a 1-piece passenger side kit) as spares on very difficult trails instead of going to 30 splines. This way you can use any of yours or your buddies TJ, XJ or YJ shafts as emergency spares up front. It's not likely the spline section that will break up front but the ears on either the stubs, short or long side shafts that let go first. It starts when the ears stretch a little from stress in full lock turns just enough to spit out the cap because they are loose. Then comes the breakage because of the slop and as the two parts smash against each other, one of the ears will most likely get mangled or break off. Again, with a 2.5L motor, you're not likely to bust the R & P unless serious preload, or the crush sleeve or something else goes wrong in there and you drop a pinion. That causes teeth to chip or break off, major gouges in the carrier from the pinion head or ring bolts to sheer off. However, it's going to be the ears almost every time that take the damage with the U joint. That will be the weak link fuse first.


RR
 
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FB on the D489 there @jeepjoe43 . Good choice for your powertrain.

FWIW: If it were me, I would probably stick with the 27 spline shafts in the D30 up front For trail spares and swapping reasons mainly, but upgrade them to Chromolly premiums and either RCV's or CTM type joints. Then carry factory stockers ( but a 1-piece passenger side kit) as spares on very difficult trails instead of going to 30 splines. This way you can use any of yours or your buddies TJ, XJ or YJ shafts as emergency spares up front. It's not likely the spline section that will break up front but the ears on either the stubs, short or long side shafts that let go first. It starts when the ears stretch a little from stress in full lock turns just enough to spit out the cap because they are loose. Then comes the breakage because of the slop and as the two parts smash against each other, one of the ears will most likely get mangled or break off. Again, with a 2.5L motor, you're not likely to bust the R & P unless serious preload, or the crush sleeve or something else goes wrong in there and you drop a pinion. That causes teeth to chip or break off, major gouges in the carrier from the pinion head or ring bolts to sheer off. However, it's going to be the ears almost every time that take the damage with the U joint. That will be the weak link fuse first.


RR
Thanks for the input on the D489!
I looked into the same for the front, but it was going be about $4500 and I just don't need it.
I was reluctant to spend what I did on the rear, but damned if I was going waste money on another D35.
It's the single most expensive component I've ever bought that didn't come with the rest of the vehicle!

As for the D30, I understand your reasoning for 27 splines, but what do you think of 30 spline chromo inners with factory outers?
I figure the factory outers will probably give up first, of course there's never a guarantee.
I will be eliminating the CAD for sure.
Whenever I've broken an axle, they've always snapped somewhere on the shaft, usually at the spline or close to it.
Hell, I had a 25 outer break in not 1, not 2, but 3 places, weird. They're going to do what they do, I guess.

The only time I ever broke an ear was on the J20 D44, with a Detroit and Drive flanges when it spit a cap @ 70mph.
That was exciting...
 
Thanks for the input on the D489!
I looked into the same for the front, but it was going be about $4500 and I just don't need it.
I was reluctant to spend what I did on the rear, but damned if I was going waste money on another D35.
It's the single most expensive component I've ever bought that didn't come with the rest of the vehicle!

As for the D30, I understand your reasoning for 27 splines, but what do you think of 30 spline chromo inners with factory outers?
I figure the factory outers will probably give up first, of course there's never a guarantee.
I will be eliminating the CAD for sure.
Whenever I've broken an axle, they've always snapped somewhere on the shaft, usually at the spline or close to it.
Hell, I had a 25 outer break in not 1, not 2, but 3 places, weird. They're going to do what they do, I guess.

The only time I ever broke an ear was on the J20 D44, with a Detroit and Drive flanges when it spit a cap @ 70mph.
That was exciting...
@jeepjoe43 I fully agree with everything you say but only caution that if an ear breaks from the 30 spline D30 inner, you'll have to carry your own spares cause nobody will have that as a spare part. Right now, the commonality of the TJ, YJ, XJ and for that matter even some ZJ's inner 27 spline stock shafts makes it very attractive to keep 27 spline count for your inners is all I'm getting at. If you run RCV's then there are no ears to shear off. If you run super strong CTM's or some other 300M super type U joint and the caps are tacked in, you may be fine. However some U joints aren't good without locking hubs because they aren't setup for full time 4x4 connection either. I have seen even Chromolly 4340 shafts break the ears after a U joint failure and that is what I'm thinking about when I say this is the only reason to stick with 27 count splines.

RR
 
@jeepjoe43 I fully agree with everything you say but only caution that if an ear breaks from the 30 spline D30 inner, you'll have to carry your own spares cause nobody will have that as a spare part. Right now, the commonality of the TJ, YJ, XJ and for that matter even some ZJ's inner 27 spline stock shafts makes it very attractive to keep 27 spline count for your inners is all I'm getting at. If you run RCV's then there are no ears to shear off. If you run super strong CTM's or some other 300M super type U joint and the caps are tacked in, you may be fine. However some U joints aren't good without locking hubs because they aren't setup for full time 4x4 connection either. I have seen even Chromolly 4340 shafts break the ears after a U joint failure and that is what I'm thinking about when I say this is the only reason to stick with 27 count splines.

RR
Haven't pulled trigger on the 30 yet, but I'm considering your advice.
BTW, where did you source your motor?
 
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I hope to have several pictures this weekend of the progress that has been made.

Also going to do some more work on the D44 front axle swapping out the CJ style knuckles that I originally had modified and stubs for the full size GM flat-top knuckles and F150 rotors, Will swap the CJ disk brakes off and use the GM Modine caliper brakes onto it at the same time. Will rework the steering slightly and hope to install a better intermediate steering shaft when I upgrade the pump to the big AGR rock box. Also going to move the front leaf spring mounts forward one frame hole to reduce the shackle rake or angle up front once the Cummins is installed.

Beginning to mock up the new motor mounts using parts from the M.O.R.E. GM V8 mounts and some off the step van. Will use fluid filled mounts to reduce HVN as mentioned earlier.

I may have to reset the rear axle spring perch angles and will want to re-visit the way I did the lower shock mounts using the parts from the Ford explorer once the driveline is installed for the double cardan rear drive shaft I built. The drive shaft will need to have a length change more than likely since the GM LM7 Vortec was removed and going back to manual from an automatic transmission here.

Right now the rear lower shocks attach to the spring plates down low to allow for longer shocks and more travel. They stick down rather low and may get hung up in rough obstacles. I think I will weld tabs on the axle tube to move them up a bit and am also investigating into a U-bolt reversal kit to reduce things that can get snagged under the Jeep when 4-wheeling. The shocks the way they were mounted helped to reduce or eliminate axle wrap under hard acceleration or torque is the reason for mounting them the way I did. That and the parts were virtually free off the donor Ford Explorer. I always like free parts when there's a justified use!

I am also on the hunt for a pilot bushing to use with the ZF s5-42 5-speed clutch and have been told that a "stock" one will fit but have not confirmed that the bore in the crankshaft is the same. Further measurements required I suspect.

The Explorer disc parking brakes are all connected and fully functional now, pictures to follow on how I did it since YJ's use almost the exact same parking brake pedal assembly in them taken from the later CJ's. Using a mixture of factory Explorer 8.8 parts, CJ parts and TJ/YJ parts I was able to make it all work like it would have come from from the factory. NO FUNKY CLAMPS or HOME MADE PARTS HERE AT ALL. Very happy with the outcome there!

As I said, pictures will be forthcoming this weekend hopefully as I can.

Getting ready to do the "F350 clutch pedal bearing "mod" soon when I do the clutch master/slave hydraulic line conversion. There are writeups all over the web about the clutch pin wear when a poly bushing wears out that was a cheap excuse for a bearing by bean counters over at FoMoCo. I also noticed it affects many YJ and CJ owners where when the eyelet nylon bushing wears out, it starts to saw through the pivot pin that the master cylinder pushrod is connected to. If I can get up under there, I will show pictures of the wear and what happens to the pin. Basically, it creates a large amount of slop and can eventually cause failure if enough time goes by. Easy fix but will take some additional parts with time to do it.

I am really happy with the outcome of the front and rear axle swaps. Both look factory and retain close to the stock WT track width of the CJ but had to go out slightly due to wanting to stay close to OEM parts. Again, my motto is try to use something factory by one of the big 3 so parts aren't a problem if something fails. Always improve from stock if possible without it necessarily being 100% evident to the naked eye.

Again, anyone wanting to swap their ticking timebomb D35 or AMC20 corporate in their CJ or YJ, this is a nice budget friendly swap that can be done easily enough in your driveway on the weekend. Especially those with the YJ that has almost the same width D35 and the same bolt pattern as Ford used on their 8.8 in the Explorers. I had the housing narrowed to "center" the axle carrier and make it closer to CJ WT axle width. I also drilled in the 5x5.5 bolt pattern on the axle flanges. Good news though is on a YJ, you don't need to do ANY of this at all making it even easier on you since both are 5x4.5 bolt circle pattern, they match. A bonus is 4-wheel disc brakes in the end too! No, you don't have to swap the proportioning valve or any of that if you don't want to. It's not entirely necessary and I have done the disc swap or axle swap on several TJ's, YJ's and now even a CJ.

I also swapped a D44 up front and that was a lot more work. However, if you are a YJ owner and aren't going to do a coil suspension conversion, a used D44 out of a TJ/LJ Rubicon will fit if you shave the brackets off and add leaf spring perches instead. Everything else is easy enough to make work by swapping parts etc. Otherwise, there is always a new housing or a D30 High Pinion non-vacuum disconnect out of a late model 1997-1999 XJ Cherokee. This will give your earlier YJ the larger U joints and also non disconnect axle tubes and retain the high pinion gearset. Again, if not doing a coil spring conversion, shave off the brackets and add your leaf perches....

More to come including pics......


RR

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Haven't pulled trigger on the 30 yet, but I'm considering your advice.
BTW, where did you source your motor?
I sourced them from a guy who regularly parts out bread & chip step-vans on ebay and elsewhere. Please note that this was several years ago and the prices are somewhat more than when I purchased them 7 or 8 years ago. Yeah, one was sitting in the crate for a while in my work shop.

The sellers name is Chad McKinney and he has a company called Quick Draw LLC.

He has a store on ebay and a website on adapters for diesel swaps. He also sold one of the 4BT's to one of the popular 4x4 magazines that used it for a Jeep swap article in the past. They wrote about sourcing the engine from Chad in the article. The trucks mine came from, the motors were Cummins re-power program installed about 64 to 80K miles prior to scrapping, according to the paperwork & odometers on these step-vans, so G.T.G. for another 300K. Not all of his engines have documented mileage though, many are just an estimate on condition as the step-vans were scrapped prior to his company obtaining the engines, so ask him if it is important to you.

He sent links to videos of the engines running on test stands prior to shipping them out. The videos were showing serial number plate, oil pressure, blow-by & soot etc. Things you want to know when buying used motors.

Both engines were excellent runners and were bought with all of the needed accessories already attached. That was with the SAE bellhousing adapters and flywheels that I wanted. The starter, flywheel or flex plate, the alternator, the fan and belts etc. the turbo with manifolds all mounted already. You can choose front or rear sump as the oil pan is symmetric in its design and can be reversed for front or rear sump applications if it is in the wrong location when you receive the engine.

I will try to post a pic soon of how the 4BT looked as received and I first opened the crate up.

RR
 
1st attached pic shows the factory skid and a winch plate.

The second is a set of tires that can be exchanged with the Super Swampers basically 33x12.5x15 MT/R's.

Third pic is showing the power brake booster and hole in the firewall for the clutch master cylinder. The rust is superficial surface rust from a prior master that leaked and ate the paint away. I need to clean it up and paint the firewall again as the original white paint bubbled up from the DOT3 brake fluid.

4th pic is the actual Warn winch mount plate for the front of the Jeep.

5th is a piece of stock 2" x 5" steel 3/16" I bought to make a new bumper with. It will replace the rear Smitty 1980's double tube bumper that has paper thin tubes or the factory "C" channel front bumper I still have on the front of the Jeep.

More to come.

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Also be it known to all the YJ owners out there that I will be having another modified D44 front axle coming available that I am going to sell after doing a little more work to it that is the correct width and dimensions for a YJ, TJ, MJ, ZJ or XJ if someone is wanting to replace their D30 front axle.

I can sell the housing as stripped bare or complete, your choice.

It is an SJ Cherokee drivers side drop axle with crossover high steering.
It has 5.13 gears.
Detroit Locker, ( I have an ARB air locker brand new in the box that can go with it if buyer wants an ARB instead).
SOLID armored front diff cover.
Trussed lower inner knuckles.
Setup right now for Synergy 3-link but comes with parts to turn it into a conventional 4-link or can be stripped for leaf springs.
30 spline carrier inner axle shafts, Mile Marker manual lockout front hubs.
Has later model CJ front disc brakes, manual hubs etc.
Heim steering, can be converted back to stock steering or customized for other uses.
3/8" thick axle tubes.
About 60" wide which is perfect for the above Jeeps.

This axle is in So. California, message me if interested with what vehicle & suspension you intend to use it in.

RR
 
The flywheel looks worse than it is with rust. It was very humid and wet a few winters ago and the humidity with condensation caused surface rust on lots of parts that were raw metal. I took some krokus cloth to a small area and it polished with zero piting. The flywheel was freshly surfaced prior to mounting it on the crankshaft.

There is an alternator on the engine and it's a fairly large one so I may keep it there cause it has the tap for a tachometer which will be nice to have.

More to come but at least there are some pictures. I have some of the ZF transmission and the D300 transfer case coming soon.

RR