The Diesel Jeep Build
- Thread starter RangerRick
- Start date
Yup, tall skinnies. Love my SAM-14's 34x9.5x15 or SAM-38's 32x9.5x15 bias play LTB's depending on how tall your suspension. Tractor tires really.
RR
Ran 34-9.50s on my J20 and 32-9.50s on the GPW, we're speaking the same lingity!
Ordered the D300 31 spline input and clocking kit from AA on Friday. Says it's supposed to be delivered today sometime. Lets hope that schedule is correct so I can get on with this.
The same kit for both the ZF s5-42 and the C6 according to the website.
Ordering the pilot bushing for the ZF to Cummins crank and a full hydraulic clutch system with the "heim rod end fix" for 1990's Ford trucks.
So far under $400 for all this stuff as of yet. Will determine what clutch size and type to go with soon. Think I will try to measure and see if the 11.5" will fit otherwise it will be the 11" but definitely want heavier duty than the 10.5" used in the Chevy 5.7 V8 that was in there last.
Parts to order next:
Fluid filled motor mounts & cut some angle iron to fab motor mounts up.
(Not going to pay the ridiculous prices that others want for pre-fabb'd motor mount kits in excess of $250-$400!)
Pilot bearing.
Clutch master/slave kit.
Heim joint kit for clutch master.
Clutch pressure plate & friction disc.
Twin-Stick kit.
D300 master rebuild kit.
JB Lo-Max 4:1 kit
JB 32 spline F & R output kits.
May as well do a full transfer case rebuild and 4:1 upgrade while I have it all out on the bench right?
We'll see...
RR
The same kit for both the ZF s5-42 and the C6 according to the website.
Ordering the pilot bushing for the ZF to Cummins crank and a full hydraulic clutch system with the "heim rod end fix" for 1990's Ford trucks.
So far under $400 for all this stuff as of yet. Will determine what clutch size and type to go with soon. Think I will try to measure and see if the 11.5" will fit otherwise it will be the 11" but definitely want heavier duty than the 10.5" used in the Chevy 5.7 V8 that was in there last.
Parts to order next:
Fluid filled motor mounts & cut some angle iron to fab motor mounts up.
(Not going to pay the ridiculous prices that others want for pre-fabb'd motor mount kits in excess of $250-$400!)
Pilot bearing.
Clutch master/slave kit.
Heim joint kit for clutch master.
Clutch pressure plate & friction disc.
Twin-Stick kit.
D300 master rebuild kit.
JB Lo-Max 4:1 kit
JB 32 spline F & R output kits.
May as well do a full transfer case rebuild and 4:1 upgrade while I have it all out on the bench right?
We'll see...
RR
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So the transfer case to transmission adapter came in a week ago and I am waiting on several clutch parts including pressure plate, clutch disc, throwout bearing, master & slave cylinder with connecting lines, a special rod end to modify the new master cylinder pivot point and some bellhousing to SAE adapter bolts.
I am in the mock up stages for figuring out the motor mounts and transmission mount arrangements and also gathering some parts to complete the turbo charge tube and exhaust fittings. There should be plenty of fuel flow with the electric fuel pump I have back on the rear fuel tank cross member. It was designed to be around 18 PSI volume for a throttle body fuel injected V8 350 engine I had in the Jeep years ago. It free flows when drawn through and when powered up provides positive pressure so it should feed the P7100 Bosch fuel injection pump just fine on the Cummins engine and help as a "lift" pump even though one is not strictly required.
The fuel lines were replaced years ago with stainless steel oversized tubing from a 1991 Suburban fuel system back in 2006 or 2007 that have worked with all the other engines in the past including the LM7 5.3L Vortec I had in the Jeep last. No fuel starvation and the return is also stainless steel and almost as large as the main delivery. There should be zero fuel delivery issues.
The arrow tank has a draw straw with a small "sock" attached at the bottom of the pickup and the discharge for the return just flows from the top back into the tank. I pressurized the tank since it has so many dents and dings from wheeling to make sure there are no leaks. It holds pressure for several hours and no signs of leaks when it was filled with gasoline in the past. It has been thoroughly wiped clean and dried so only diesel fuel will be inside when it is refilled the next time.
I am also removing the fuel fill-pipe lead restrictor from the neck and looking for a "Diesel fuel only" labeled bezel to replace the gasser one. If I can't find one I will use my stamp set as a slight branding iron to relief and color fill the words into the original or replace it with a stainless bezel and stamp it with the words neatly so it looks factory. I will also print a nice "D" fuel pump for the background in the fuel gauge with a small arrow pointing to the side where the filler is located. I think nice small touches like this will give it that "factory installed" look & feel.
RR
I am in the mock up stages for figuring out the motor mounts and transmission mount arrangements and also gathering some parts to complete the turbo charge tube and exhaust fittings. There should be plenty of fuel flow with the electric fuel pump I have back on the rear fuel tank cross member. It was designed to be around 18 PSI volume for a throttle body fuel injected V8 350 engine I had in the Jeep years ago. It free flows when drawn through and when powered up provides positive pressure so it should feed the P7100 Bosch fuel injection pump just fine on the Cummins engine and help as a "lift" pump even though one is not strictly required.
The fuel lines were replaced years ago with stainless steel oversized tubing from a 1991 Suburban fuel system back in 2006 or 2007 that have worked with all the other engines in the past including the LM7 5.3L Vortec I had in the Jeep last. No fuel starvation and the return is also stainless steel and almost as large as the main delivery. There should be zero fuel delivery issues.
The arrow tank has a draw straw with a small "sock" attached at the bottom of the pickup and the discharge for the return just flows from the top back into the tank. I pressurized the tank since it has so many dents and dings from wheeling to make sure there are no leaks. It holds pressure for several hours and no signs of leaks when it was filled with gasoline in the past. It has been thoroughly wiped clean and dried so only diesel fuel will be inside when it is refilled the next time.
I am also removing the fuel fill-pipe lead restrictor from the neck and looking for a "Diesel fuel only" labeled bezel to replace the gasser one. If I can't find one I will use my stamp set as a slight branding iron to relief and color fill the words into the original or replace it with a stainless bezel and stamp it with the words neatly so it looks factory. I will also print a nice "D" fuel pump for the background in the fuel gauge with a small arrow pointing to the side where the filler is located. I think nice small touches like this will give it that "factory installed" look & feel.
RR
Waiting for brown santa to show up with more parts. Ordered the clutch master, slave and line all pre-bled and ordered a pilot bearing for the crank shaft.
Have ordered several parts to rebuild and upgrade the D300 transfer case while everything is out.
I have an Atlas II but unfortunately it is for left hand drop front axles...... May sell it or may save it for a future Jeep but as yet undecided there.
RR
Have ordered several parts to rebuild and upgrade the D300 transfer case while everything is out.
I have an Atlas II but unfortunately it is for left hand drop front axles...... May sell it or may save it for a future Jeep but as yet undecided there.
RR
Just curiosity, I'm not really looking for one, but what spline is that Atlas, and what would you have to get for it?
The Atlas is 23 spline, same as MOST Jeeps built since 1990 that had an AX-15 or automatic later and were 6 cylinder powered.
It is an Atlas 4.3:1 twin stick and has the drive shaft brake on the rear output shaft. It does not have the clear sight tube option and does have the clocking ring option for tummy tucking etc. It was new in 2014 and ONLY HAS 5 off-road runs with about 500 street miles on it before it was pulled, barely broken in. This makes it is a newer revised design case later serial number unit. It is laid out for DRIVERS SIDE axle carrier and front drive shaft.
I would need around $2500 for it to make it worth my selling it.
The only thing you would need to add is the twin stick cable shifters kit or mechanical linkage kit since they would be different vehicle-to-vehicle ex: TJ vs. YJ or XJ or JK etc. and you would have to buy it anyhow even with a brand new Atlas II because they are sold separately specific to the install application. Otherwise, it is all there and would save anyone at least $800 + over a brand new one with current pricing and no lead time to get it. Plus, as a used part there's no sales tax either if that applies to your state, just shipping or you can come pick it up.
I would install it in the CJ if the CJ weren't passenger side front axle drive shaft/carrier and if I didn't already have the JB Lo-Max 4:1 with other 32 spline upgrades on the Dana 300 already.
RR
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Fantastic info for someone who may be interested, like I said I was just curious, but it might help you unload it.
Actually sounds like a pretty good deal...
I'll have a lower crawl ratio with the future SM420 than I would with an Atlas and a stock box, about 86:1.
Not the 100:1 I used to have, but still pretty creepy.
I will also have a D44 for the front of a Jeep Wrangler that can be adapted to a TJ, YJ, XJ, MJ or ZJ coming available soon also. It is driver side carrier and is stock 61" wide with manual hubs and a locker. These are leftovers from other projects in the past that I have to clear out the parts from.
RR
RR
I will also have a D44 for the front of a Jeep Wrangler that can be adapted to a TJ, YJ, XJ, MJ or ZJ coming available soon also. It is driver side carrier and is stock 61" wide with manual hubs and a locker. These are leftovers from other projects in the past that I have to clear out the parts from.
It was originally out of an SJ full size Cherokee narrow track from the 70's and has thick axle tubes. This is not the flimsy TJ Rubicon D44 that is just a D30 stolen from the XJ front end design with a D44 center section. This is like a full size truck D44 with small inner C's and thick axle tubes, full thick center casting but the correct width for a TJ or a YJ at 61" across.
RR
It was originally out of an SJ full size Cherokee narrow track from the 70's and has thick axle tubes. This is not the flimsy TJ Rubicon D44 that is just a D30 stolen from the XJ front end design with a D44 center section. This is like a full size truck D44 with small inner C's and thick axle tubes, full thick center casting but the correct width for a TJ or a YJ at 61" across.
RR
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Well.... Slightly off topic but kind of related....
Got another diesel engine..... This time a 2-cylinder for a sailboat that runs and has the transmission attached. I have been cleaning it up to sell or install in a sailboat next to the Cummins so I hope to attach some pictures soon. Not only do I think diesels are best for a Jeep but they are definitely the best and safest for boats hands down!
Been working on several jobs at work that have sucked all my spare time since things are opening up and changing workload has increased 10 fold. A good thing!
Hope to update the build with more work soon and "brown santa" is on the way with more Jeep related goodies too!
RR
Got another diesel engine..... This time a 2-cylinder for a sailboat that runs and has the transmission attached. I have been cleaning it up to sell or install in a sailboat next to the Cummins so I hope to attach some pictures soon. Not only do I think diesels are best for a Jeep but they are definitely the best and safest for boats hands down!
Been working on several jobs at work that have sucked all my spare time since things are opening up and changing workload has increased 10 fold. A good thing!
Hope to update the build with more work soon and "brown santa" is on the way with more Jeep related goodies too!
RR
Freckles +Sassy
New Member
Have a 92 YJ with a Mercedes 5 cylinder engine in it. Do you know anything about a Mercedes are 617 - 1/4 - 16 - 02
Yes the OM617 is a battle axe of an engine with many having gone a half million miles or more in cars all around the globe. Mercedes OM engines aren't the most powerful but they are miserly in fuel consumption and can push a Jeep down the road alright especially when turbo charged.
Lucky for you, parts are plentiful for the OM series engines and used engines that can be rebuilt as a replacement for you are frequent, even 40 years on today......
The 4-cylinder non turbo engines found in the older 240D cars were very under powered and took a long time to get up to speed especially if there were an automatic transmission behind it, however all of them were misers at the pump and run forever if proper maintenance schedules were followed. These were two reasons they were some of the most popular models in the late 1970's and early 1980's diesel craze that hit before GM and some VW engines ruined the image of a durable power plant that was super on fuel. The oil embargos of the 1970's forced American drivers to look at alternatives to big V8 gas powered cars and trucks as fuel costs spiked and supply shortfalls caused huge lines at the pump.
Dozens of manufacturers jumped into the diesel fray with Nissan, Volvo, Mercedes, Peugeot, Audi/VW, Toyota, Isuzu, AMC/Renault and others importing small to moderate numbers of diesel powered vehicles into the US auto market by 1980 with varied success.
The problems with GM and some VW diesels soured a lot of people in the idea of a diesel car in their driveway when early attempts were made at converting gas motors to diesel (GM) or design flaws in cylinder heads or castings caused abnormally high failure rates (VW) as examples. This and supply parts on some were hard to get being not very popular or the car companies no longer importing diesel vehicles after just a few short years. Think parts for a Peugeot or a diesel Renault.
The stink didn't help either because remember this is before electronic diesel engine management so soot and smell along with an increased cost of service for periodic maintenance for twice the oil capacities and big filter changes over their gas counterparts made people think twice about a diesel. Those who jumped on the diesel bandwagon though were mostly rewarded with a good reliable long lasting vehicle for the most part. I know my family was real pleased with our 1983 Chevrolet 3/4-ton 6.2L diesel van we had. My dad sprung for the extra $2,500 cost to have a GM-Detroit diesel over a 350 C.I. gas engine and other than the fact that the 700R4 Hydramatic transmission was a P.O.S. in the early days, (we had no less than 6 installed in and out of warranty) the diesel engine was far better than our neighbors 1984 gas version van of the same type. Our van lasted longer and literally got TWICE the mileage of the gasser by comparison. It also had a ton more power at altitude when going over mountain passes in California and Utah as compared to the gas equipped model.
We consistently out paced them in both power and fuel economy on several long distance trips of 500 miles or greater with less trouble and nearly DOUBLE the range at each fill-up. Made them think twice about gas and when it came time for a new truck to pull their trailer 10 years later, they chose the (new back then) Dodge RAM 2500 Cummins 6BT diesel power over the V10 gas and they never looked back again.
I have seen several Damler-Benz OM powered diesel Jeeps over the years and actually considered the conversion myself using a later 6-cylinder electronic controlled diesel to convert my TJ Wrangler and keep it smog legal. I ended up nixing the idea when it was discovered that the later 300SD ECM controlled cars were wired with a bio-degradable wiring harness of all things and were having massive harness failures over time. The problem was so bad that Mercedes offered free harnesses and to replace the harness for almost 10 years on several of their cars to customers who were affected with this problem.
Corporate "woke-ism" even played a role all the way back in the mid-late 1990's and that's how it happened to Mercedes customers again with the bio-time bomb wiring. This souring many off of production diesel cars again when a second wave of popularity started to hit in the late 1990's. Very unfortunate.......
I believe that the diesel engine is still the "greenest" of the internal combustion engines especially considering the all the advancements in technology. However, I still don't believe it's popularity will ever gain again as it has in Europe and the far east now that hybrids and electric cars have such a hold on the market today. However, if you are a prepper type who likes to be prepared for anything I still say the diesel is the best way to go because the range alone makes it superior to electric or hybrids when some diesel powered vehicles can travel 600-800 miles in a single fill-up without adding auxiliary tanks. Add some auxiliary tankage and the range can be well over 1,000 miles + in a single filling.
Diesel is superior to gas for range and that is one major reason why no production sailboats have been outfitted with a gas motor since 1978. That and the safety factor over gas where fumes from gas are heavier than air and sink causing potential explosions etc. Long distance cruisers in the sailing world all have diesel auxiliary engines for their safety, durability and range period. Do these cruising sailors know something the car world people don't get? Perhaps.
RR
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A short update:
Pilot bearing ordered and coming. Turns out the previously ordered one was the wrong part a few steps above.
Clutch parts some are ordered and on their way. The parts not ordered a few steps above.
Finally de-crated (put on stand) the engine after 5 years and beginning prep to clean it up.
Starting the fabrication of motor mounts and will have to take more pictures to post up of progress.
I got back into sailing and sailboats so that hobby had robbed me of some time from the Jeep project but back to it as I would like to get it on the road BEFORE the Jeep turns 40 years old & !
RR
Pilot bearing ordered and coming. Turns out the previously ordered one was the wrong part a few steps above.
Clutch parts some are ordered and on their way. The parts not ordered a few steps above.
Finally de-crated (put on stand) the engine after 5 years and beginning prep to clean it up.
Starting the fabrication of motor mounts and will have to take more pictures to post up of progress.
I got back into sailing and sailboats so that hobby had robbed me of some time from the Jeep project but back to it as I would like to get it on the road BEFORE the Jeep turns 40 years old
& !RR
Freckles +Sassy
New Member
Thank you very much Rick. I am trying to learn this whole forum business. If you don't hear me respond again, it's just because I don't know which button to push. Thanks
Freckles +Sassy
New Member
Freckles +Sassy
New Member
Do you know what year this engine is according to the numbers AR 617-014-16-02? This engine is turbocharged the wiring in the yj is laying on the floor in my shop. It is a mess. I will need to reinstall the wiring harness under the hood, but the harness isn't going to patch up to the engine. What does a diesel engine like this require 4 the proper wiring? Hi I see that it is mechanically injected, and I think Hi-C sensors in certain spots. Such as temperature sensors. Because I have two different wiring systems, the body and the engine, how do I wire in that engine compartment?