Why would I get code 24 twice?

wance

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Joined
Jun 21, 2020
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4
Location
Mississippi
I have a 1994 Wrangler with the 2.5. I have recently rebuilt the engine and got it running and actually let it run for 30 minutes the other day. I did have problems with the map sensor not letting it stay running. I was getting codes 13 & 14 so I go to test the sensor and it checked fine so I tried starting it and it fired right up and that’s when it ran for 30 min.

So the next day after work I wanted to start it up to let it run some more before I take for the first drive. Now I’m getting codes 24, 13, & 14. It will start up right away and the rpm surges or pulsates until it just kills itself. I tested the tps(24) and I’m getting .76 volts at idle and 3.8 at wot so that should be fine. I started it back up and it seemed to run a little better but still surging. I checked the codes after that and I got 12 24 24 14 13 55.

Why would I get 24 twice? Also I replaced these sensors before I rebuilt it.

Sorry for such a long post but just want to make sure I give enough info. Let me know if I left something out.

This is my first Jeep and first full rebuild on my own so I’m definitely learning as I go.

Thanks
 
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What do all these codes mean? Since they are P0348 style codes, I'm unsure.

My guess is the fact that you are getting 24 twice is just a glitch. Clear the codes and I'll bet that if it comes back, it only comes back once.
 
What do all these codes mean? Since they are P0348 style codes, I'm unsure.

My guess is the fact that you are getting 24 twice is just a glitch. Clear the codes and I'll bet that if it comes back, it only comes back once.

A chart showing all OBD I codes for Jeep vehicles.
This method is used to retrieve OBD I and OBD II diagnostic trouble codes from your YJ, TJ, XJ, ZJ, and early WJ Jeep models.

  1. Insert the key into the ignition
  2. Turn the ignition On-Off-On-Off-On within 5 seconds
  3. Record the 2-digit DTC as displayed by the flashing MIL
I.E. - DTC 24 will be displayed by 2 flashes, short pause, and then 4 more flashes. If more than one code is stored, there will be a longer pause before the next code is displayed.


[TD valign="top"]
11​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking. Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor.​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
12​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
Positive battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 Key-on cycles.​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
13​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
No difference recognized between the engine MAP reading and the barometric (atmosphere) pressure reading from start-up.​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
14​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
MAP sensor input above or below acceptable voltage. 5 volt output to MAP sensor open.​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
15​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
No vehicle speed sensor signal detected during driving load conditions.​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
17​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
Engine did not reach operating temperature within acceptable limits​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
21​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
Upstream oxygen sensor response slower than minimum required switching frequency.​
Upstream oxygen sensor heating element circuit malfunction.​
Downstream oxygen sensor heating element circuit malfunction.​
Downstream oxygen sensor input voltage maintained above the normal operating range.​
Oxygen sensor voltage too low, tested after cold start. (Upstream or Downstream)​
Left oxygen sensor input voltage maintained above the normal operating temperature.​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
22​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
Engine coolant temperature sensor above or below acceptable voltage.​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
23​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
Intake air temperature sensor input above or below acceptable voltage.​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
24​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
Throttle position sensor input above or below acceptable voltage. TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor.​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
25​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
A shorted or open condition detected in one or more of the idle air control motor circuits. Actual idle speed does not equal target idle speed.​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
27​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
Injector #1 thru 6, or any combination of individual injectors driver does not respond properly to the control signal.​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
31​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
An open or shorted condition detected in the A/C clutch relay circuit. Insufficient or excessive vapor flow detected during fuel evaporation emission system operation.​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
33​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
An open or shorted condition detected in the duty cycle purge solenoid circuit. (A/C clutch relay circuit)​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
34​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed Control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. Speed control switch input below the minimum acceptable voltage.​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
37​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
Relationship between engine speed and vehicle speed indicates no torque converter clutch engagement. An open or shorted condition detected in the torque converter part throttle unlock solenoid control circuit. Incorrect input state detected for the Park/Neutral switch. Auto only.​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
41​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
An open or shorted condition in the generator field control circuit.​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
42​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
An open or shorted condition detected in the auto shutdown relay circuit. An open condition detected in the ASD relay output circuit. An open or shorted condition detected in the fuel pump relay control circuit. An open circuit between PCM and fuel gauge sending unit. Circuit shorted to voltage between PCM and fuel gauge sending unit. No movement of fuel level sender detected.​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
43​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
Peak primary circuit current not achieved with maximum dwell time. Misfire detected in one or more cylinders 1 thru 6. (4 and 6 cyls.)​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
44​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
Battery temperature sensor in voltage above or below acceptable range.​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
46​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
Battery voltage sense input above target charging voltage during engine operation.​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
47​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
Battery voltage sense input below target charging during engine operation. Also, no significant change detected in battery voltage during active test of generator output circuit.​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
51​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an abnormally rich correction factor.​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
52​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
A rich air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an abnormally rich correction factor.​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
53​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
PCM Internal fault condition detected.​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
54​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
No camshaft signal detected during engine cranking.​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
55​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
Completion of fault code display on Check Engine lamp.​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
62​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
PCM Failure to update service reminder indicator​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
63​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
Unsuccessful attempt to write to an EEPROM location by the PCM.​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
64​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
Catalyst efficiency below required level. (Same as code 72)​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
65​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
Power steering high pressure seen at high speed. (2.5L only)​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
72​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
Catalyst efficiency below required level. (Same as code 64)​
[/TD]

[TD valign="top"]
77​
[/TD]
[TD valign="top"]
Malfunction detected with poser feed to speed control servo solenoids​
[/TD]
 
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Is it possible for a bad battery cause these problems? I don’t know how old the battery is. It came with the Jeep when I got it a year ago and we have had to charge it up a few times since we got everything back together.

I only ask because last night I left the key on in the Jeep and had to charge it back up and once it was fully charged I started it and it ran fine.
 
Last edited:
I'm not sure a bad battery will cause this problem since the alternator should keep the voltage even but you can test the battery when the engine is running and see what it says.

Did you install a new MAF sensor? Testing it with the key on/engine off and getting the 5 volts off the reference wire is a good start but what does it show when a vacuum is applied? First I should ask if the vacuum line and rubber end boots are ok and there's no leaks.

You can test it the same way with a voltmeter and pull a vacuum with a brake bleeder vacuum pump - usually a free loaner tool at your friendly auto parts store. See if the voltage drop is consistent and even when pulling a vacuum.

You can try it with the engine running and see if the volts on the sensor wire drop to 1.8volts or so at idle and remain there. If they jump around then there's a problem. It's not as accurate as using a pump because it's hard to test the intermediate range as a vacuum is applied.

Give that a shot.
 
I'm not sure a bad battery will cause this problem since the alternator should keep the voltage even but you can test the battery when the engine is running and see what it says.

Did you install a new MAF sensor? Testing it with the key on/engine off and getting the 5 volts off the reference wire is a good start but what does it show when a vacuum is applied? First I should ask if the vacuum line and rubber end boots are ok and there's no leaks.

You can test it the same way with a voltmeter and pull a vacuum with a brake bleeder vacuum pump - usually a free loaner tool at your friendly auto parts store. See if the voltage drop is consistent and even when pulling a vacuum.

You can try it with the engine running and see if the volts on the sensor wire drop to 1.8volts or so at idle and remain there. If they jump around then there's a problem. It's not as accurate as using a pump because it's hard to test the intermediate range as a vacuum is applied.

Give that a shot.
I did replace it with a new one and I did use a voltmeter and got the 5 volts but I couldn’t find my vacuum pump. I need to find it so I can test that. Should it go down to 0 or that 1.8v?
 
This might help, it's from the Chiltons Manual

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