I'm confused as to which of these is the fill plug? The hex is on the driver's side, the 9/16 on the passenger side.
It's a 93 YJ 4 cyl 2.5L
It's a 93 YJ 4 cyl 2.5L
Which is the transmission fill plug?
- Thread starter EvilRbt
- Start date
I’m assuming that by hex, you mean torx, and by 9/16, you mean the hex?
The torx one should be a detent. Pretty sure the hex is the fill plug, though 9/16 sounds small. AX15 is 24mm. But I’m not an AX5 expert, so it might actually be that small. I do believe the fill is passenger side on AX5.
The torx one should be a detent. Pretty sure the hex is the fill plug, though 9/16 sounds small. AX15 is 24mm. But I’m not an AX5 expert, so it might actually be that small. I do believe the fill is passenger side on AX5.
Someone has to do it
wrangleryjforum.com
STICKY - Jeep Wrangler YJ Factory Service Manuals (FSM) and Part Catalogs
I thought that this might be helpful to fellow YJ owners to make one sticky resource thread with all of the original factory service manuals and parts catalogs for 1987-1995 Jeep Wrangler YJs. If you have anything I'm missing, please feel free to post them in this thread and I'll add them to...
wrangleryjforum.com
OP
TRevs, I have a manual and this section just wasn't clear. Didn't look like my transmission matched the illustrations.
Anyway, I did more homework and called out the mechanic who changed my fluid last week, because that fill plug *hasn't* been removed. Turns out, he removed the torx bolt (I always say hex like an idiot) on the driver's side, even though it's marked DNR.
That explains why my jeep only took 3 quarts when I read it takes 3.3-3.5, because the torx plug is lower than the proper fill plug (on the passenger side). Fortunately, even though he took out the DNR bolt, no transmission issues. Seems that's only "Do Not Remove" when the same transmission is used on other vehicles (it's connected to reverse).
Thanks for the replies, but all sorted. Moral of the story, I won't use that mechanic again!
Anyway, I did more homework and called out the mechanic who changed my fluid last week, because that fill plug *hasn't* been removed. Turns out, he removed the torx bolt (I always say hex like an idiot) on the driver's side, even though it's marked DNR.
That explains why my jeep only took 3 quarts when I read it takes 3.3-3.5, because the torx plug is lower than the proper fill plug (on the passenger side). Fortunately, even though he took out the DNR bolt, no transmission issues. Seems that's only "Do Not Remove" when the same transmission is used on other vehicles (it's connected to reverse).
Thanks for the replies, but all sorted. Moral of the story, I won't use that mechanic again!
it’s so disappointing that you can’t trust the average auto mechanic to do almost anything.
I had bad front end wandering on a ford van and paid for shocks at one shop; they didn’t help at all. The dealer later diagnosed a wheel bearing that resolved the problem.
On a civic several years ago, I paid for a clutch replacement and found a puddle of MTF on my garage floor right after driving it home. They wanted to charge me again to replace the seal they tore.
Last year buying a used rav4 for my daughter, after the test drive and before the pickup, they changed the oil and stripped the oil pan bolt.
Similar issues with appliance repair.
If possible, it’s so much cheaper and less infuriating to figure it out and DIY.
I had bad front end wandering on a ford van and paid for shocks at one shop; they didn’t help at all. The dealer later diagnosed a wheel bearing that resolved the problem.
On a civic several years ago, I paid for a clutch replacement and found a puddle of MTF on my garage floor right after driving it home. They wanted to charge me again to replace the seal they tore.
Last year buying a used rav4 for my daughter, after the test drive and before the pickup, they changed the oil and stripped the oil pan bolt.
Similar issues with appliance repair.
If possible, it’s so much cheaper and less infuriating to figure it out and DIY.
I only have the Tacoma and YJ, most YJs don’t go to shops it seems but Tacomas sure do, especially dealers. It is definitely disappointing to see the crap that happens to others. What’s even worse is many of the owners refuse to take that bad experience and learn themselves - they’ll still go back to the same dealer or shop that screwed them a lot of the time.
I did just have a driveshaft carrier bearing go bad on my truck, which requires a new bearing and a u-joint that you have to remove to get the bearing off. It was under warranty so I got it fixed for free, otherwise it would have been me doing the work. I didn’t want to leave it with them, but thankfully they did a fine job and it’s back to good. You just never know, and nobody cares about your own stuff like you do.
I did just have a driveshaft carrier bearing go bad on my truck, which requires a new bearing and a u-joint that you have to remove to get the bearing off. It was under warranty so I got it fixed for free, otherwise it would have been me doing the work. I didn’t want to leave it with them, but thankfully they did a fine job and it’s back to good. You just never know, and nobody cares about your own stuff like you do.
I helped my son-in-law replace that same carrier bearing a few weeks ago on his ‘06 Taco. He did most of the work (thankfully) but it was a great learning experience for both of us. He replaced one or two of the U joints while it was off. Maybe $80 in parts and vibes were cured.
Yeah, really not that bad of a job from watching the YT vids. I had no vibes because the u-joints were perfectly fine, just the bearing was making chirping cricket noises anytime the vehicle was moving. I partially wonder if the high driveline speeds with my 5.29 gears contributed, but other people with bone stock rigs on 3.90s and 4.30s have also had the same problem so it was probably luck. I’m sure the next time it goes out, it’ll be me doing it. Might not be a bad couple of parts to keep on the shelf for a quick repair if it does happen again.
Mine’s a 2021 so it was quite an early death at 47K. Oh well, fix it, learn from it, and move on. Thankfully this time for free.
not knowing if you all live in a rural area or city. most towns have local chapter of FFA in high school and they have students that work on vehicles and tractors under a instructor that checks there work. i have used them at times when i dont have some tools . they also keep you informed as to parts and items that you need to complete the job. most chapters dont charge for work, you just give a donation. safe driving.