Stock Engine Angle

R

RI93YJ

New Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2022
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7
Location
Rhode Island
Hello! 1993 YJ 4.0 Automatic. I been chasing a transmission leak for longer than I care to mention. I dont do transmission work so I have had it at the best shop in RI six times. Yes 6! Its going back in a few days and I am sending a brand new tranny oil pan with it as that may be the issue.

Anyways, I fire it up today and its idling like trash. Runs fine for a minute, then revs up and then almost stalls. Drives fine. Could be MAP sensor but thats only a year old. Im gonna do a voltage check shortly. Trouble code says bad thermostat so ill be changing that and the temp sensor tomorrow but al thats less than 3 years old and i barely drive this rig.

So while looking around today i notice motor is definitely on a bit of an angle. Now this could just be me but i feel like it’s different than before. I could be crazy lol. This jeep is making me nuts. So i thought id ask some opinions. Thanks in advance!

The two Motor mounts look fine. I just dont remember it being so slumped to the back of the firewall. Again, i could just be losing my mind over this problematic jeep 😂
IMG_6886.jpeg


IMG_6887.jpeg
 
They are slanted a bit from the factory. I can tell you where mine sits but if yours is leveled or anything else that affects the overall slant, it may not match mind. I just returned mine to stock suspension so I have a slight rake but I do have a heavy ish rear bumper that minimizes the rake some.

My engine is around 5° from level, and the fender is 1° from level in the other direction, so about a 6° difference from fender to engine total.
 
Gilaguy23 said:
Check your trans mount, the belly pan bolts and the frame inserts for pulling out to start with things. Does your fan look centered in the shroud?
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Fan is not centered in shroud and I should have mentioned this. The top of the fan is pulling out towards the firewall. Ill post a pic of that tomorrow. Its dark out now. Thanks for the reply!
 
machoheadgames said:
They are slanted a bit from the factory. I can tell you where mine sits but if yours is leveled or anything else that affects the overall slant, it may not match mind. I just returned mine to stock suspension so I have a slight rake but I do have a heavy ish rear bumper that minimizes the rake some.

My engine is around 5° from level, and the fender is 1° from level in the other direction, so about a 6° difference from fender to engine total.
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Thanks for the reply. Is your fan centered in the shroud? The top of my fan is tipping back towards the firewall
 
RI93YJ said:
Thanks for the reply. Is your fan centered in the shroud? The top of my fan is tipping back towards the firewall
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Seems decently straight and centered. Which makes sense because the radiator is tilted back naturally by its mounts. The upper mount sticks further back and the lower mount is shorter which creates a lean. Then the shroud is mounted to that.

If your fan is tilted back more than the radiator, then you may have a problem.

IMG_2374.jpeg

IMG_2373.jpeg
 
RI93YJ said:
Hello! 1993 YJ 4.0 Automatic. I been chasing a transmission leak for longer than I care to mention. I dont do transmission work so I have had it at the best shop in RI six times. Yes 6! Its going back in a few days and I am sending a brand new tranny oil pan with it as that may be the issue.

Anyways, I fire it up today and its idling like trash. Runs fine for a minute, then revs up and then almost stalls. Drives fine. Could be MAP sensor but thats only a year old. Im gonna do a voltage check shortly. Trouble code says bad thermostat so ill be changing that and the temp sensor tomorrow but al thats less than 3 years old and i barely drive this rig.

So while looking around today i notice motor is definitely on a bit of an angle. Now this could just be me but i feel like it’s different than before. I could be crazy lol. This jeep is making me nuts. So i thought id ask some opinions. Thanks in advance!

The two Motor mounts look fine. I just dont remember it being so slumped to the back of the firewall. Again, i could just be losing my mind over this problematic jeep 😂
View attachment 122044

View attachment 122045
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Hope you get this figured out. On a side note, I am also from RI, and need to have my transmission worked on. It has a really bad leak, and it slips, so I think it is time for a rebuild. Which shop did you go to? I have gone to Midland in the past, but curious who are going to if you don't mind.
 
first read the vin tag?, see that, see the engine codes there, does it match what is in the engine bay? That be first.
jeep have this bad habit of being modified.
all engines lean front to back, it is not a new idea or jeep ideal or 4.0L idea
mine 6 degrees up too. (just did it nowfor you)
the rear axle is lower than the engine, so they slant it to have less stress on u-joints. (keep in mind car sold in 2wd form too. page 1244 FSM says so)

the VIN tag to the right (facing) the brake booster if full of other codes too, option codes. something to learn what did this car have day 1 new.
cold starts fail (ever do a tuneup?) spark parts. per the 60k mile rules and 120k up if there.
lets do the problems list
  1. angle worry false, solved.
  2. tranny leaks, ATF well the transfer case runs ATF+4 so which one leaks?, but is now told it slips, so leaks is a moot point, really.buy a rebuilt.
  3. runs bad, the engine, a tuneup not done first? filters too, spark parts., clean the IAC ?
  4. code 17 DTC is bad thermostat or bad ETC sensor screwed to thermostat housing 2wire. 17 means too cold or slow thermostat, or missing. or failsafe stat , failed and locked open. or air in the coolant loop! never ever burped out and ECT now can't read air temps for water, simple fix burp it. The ECT is water only sensor, if air is uptop the ECT reads wild readings, no PCM can understand. burp it out fully all air in the loop.

the transmission leaks can be hard to find. but getting it fully clean then drive it finds the source.
the front transmission one of 2
32RH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION the tranny has tag read the tag and buy a rebuilt. for 4wd if the car is 4wd. aka TorqueFlite 6, a TF904 !
AW-4 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, ditto if true. Aisin a340 ,from japan. used on toyota's too. 4speeds it is. not 3.
most AW4 fail for huge tires and wrong gearing. cause oveheated AW4, what you have for driveline was not told yet.

leaks can be front seals. (pump ,I am not saying ignore leaks, just to keep it full) so the extent of damage can be learned)
.rear seals
shift SLECTOR rod o-ring bad.
cracks in case.
or bad porosity in castings.
pan gaSKET
cooler hoses leak, both.
best is put ATF dye in the fluid and use UV lamp to find the leak.but getting it clean first is huge win.
page 1153 in your FSM,, amasing that FSM, covers leaks.


1. Speedometer adapter
2. Pan gasket
3. Filler tube (where tube enters case)
4. Fluid lines and fittings
5. Valve body manual lever shaft shaft seal
6. Pressure test port plug loose
7. Rear bearing access plate
8. Gasket damaged or bolts are loose
9. Adapter/extension gasket damaged
10. Neutral switch
11. Converter housing area
12. Cooler line fittings and hoses
13. Pump seal
14. Torque converter


you said took it in 6 times, but did not say for what fail ,just transmission or all the above or what?
thanks for playing.

we all know leaks are hard to find,

gravity and windage effects, make the evidence lie to you.! and everyone.
not told how much leaks out per or week.ATF
 
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if you let the tranny go dry or low it can slip.
we can see your dip stick readings, hot engine running at idle in park.
do not overfill the A/T box or it foams up and wrecks the bearings in the box. (air bubbles do that to bearings)
simple to do , if it slips, park the car, and check the level, L <<<<<x >>>>>H , it must be between low and hot.
if not too low the tranny is bad.
if is too low put back the correct fluid , as the FSM instructions tell you
never check tranny levels like you do the engine. ok. read the book then leap.
  1. FLAT GROUND
  2. set the foot brake (parking) chock WHEELS wheels., IF WANT MORE SAFETY.
  3. FULLY hot NORMAL engine
  4. at idle in park ,RUNNING
  5. if was low before now, shift to all gears. 3 times, holding brake pedal and land on park
  6. idle hot is 800 RPM NOT 2000 .
  7. open hood
  8. check the level idling in park (A/T)
IF TRANSMISISION SLIPS IN ALL GEARS.? check levels. make sure cooler lines do no leak.AFT
DO THE FSM BOOK PAGES ON TRANSMISSION PUMP PRESSURE TESTS. (TOOLS NEEDED)
IF FAILS THE PUMP IS BAD, FILTER PACKED, OR FILTER FELL OFF its, input port and pump sucks air.
if lots of internal seals leak and the pump can't keep up.. it will slip.
not told can you reach all gears?
not told is slip really FLARE, false neutrals?


same manual ,under slips

Shift cable out o f adjustment TV cable AKA. kickdown cable from TV to the tranny box.
Throttle cable out of adjustment(as in broke and dead)
Valve body faulty
Solenoid faulty ,leaking.
Transmission faulty(vast)
 
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