Ring & Pinion Question

jeepjoe43

YJ Enthusiast
Lifetime Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2020
Messages
926
Location
Black Canyon City, AZ 85324
I've got a new R&P and Yoke.
When I went to test fit the yoke on the pinion it only went on about 1/2 way.
After about 2 weeks of carefully filing witness marks in the yoke I got it about 7/8 of the way.
I can torque it down the rest of way with a nut pretty easily, so I'm not worried about it.
It just seems odd....
I've set a number of R&Ps and I don't ever remember a yoke fitting this tight on the splines.

Am I missing something? Some new performance tight fit? Or do I just have CRS?
 
when my buddy was setting up my gears, I recall him tightening the old pinion nut during setup, and having to hammer the mess back apart when he needed to make adjustments. Not sure if that was due to tight fitment or not.

Did you get a spicer yoke? That’s what I used, same yoke on the rear 44 too. I think that will be the best bet for true quality fitment, and then the rest is up to the pinion manufacturer. In other words, I don’t think what you’re experiencing is too crazy.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jeepjoe43
Not that I was in a panic, but that's good to hear!
No, it isn't Spicer, ECGS sent a Yukon yoke.
There was a smattering of Spicer small stuff in my order, but just about everything else was also Yukon, including the R&P.
Maybe what I remember is old yoke vs. new, it was antique parts I was working with way back then.
No biggy I guess...Not like I'm putting 400 HP through it.
Thx again brother.
 
Gotcha. I used Yukon on my old D35, it was perfectly fine too. Looked almost identical to spicer. I think you have nothing to worry about really.
 
I just had 4.56 gears put in my 94 YJ. I was told to change the gear oil after the first 500 miles. But I haven't used 4WD so the front hasn't been broken in. Guy at Yukon said he would do it if it were his but again, it hasn't been broken it yet. Does the front gears turn at all when not in 4WD?
 
I just had 4.56 gears put in my 94 YJ. I was told to change the gear oil after the first 500 miles. But I haven't used 4WD so the front hasn't been broken in. Guy at Yukon said he would do it if it were his but again, it hasn't been broken it yet. Does the front gears turn at all when not in 4WD?
Not if the CAD is still functioning like stock. The drivers axle shaft will spin the spider gears but that’s all.
 
Would you change the oil now, or wait until the 4WD gets used a bit?
I’d probably wait. Nothing wrong with doing it but your gears haven’t really been used at all. Personally I don’t even think gear break ins matter much although it’s a good time to make sure no shiny flecks are in the oil at least. But I’d probably wait a while to do the front. Even if the cad isn’t working right and the fronts spinning while driving, it’s under practically no load.
 
I'm looking forward to those 500 miles!
My Jeep has been so finicky I haven't even driven it 200 miles since I got it 3 years ago.
Heck, it's seen 50 on a roll-back and 5 on a strap.
My ROI has not been very good.
 
  • Like
Reactions: machoheadgames
I'm looking forward to those 500 miles!
My Jeep has been so finicky I haven't even driven it 200 miles since I got it 3 years ago.
Heck, it's seen 50 on a roll-back and 5 on a strap.
My ROI has not been very good.
I’m so ready to get mine back on the road. Still no reliability issues but I’m just burnt out on working on it. Dove into too many projects at once, although it didn’t make sense to do it any differently because it would have been a lot more work had I not. My ROI has been fine but I sure do hear you on the minimal miles in years….
 
  • Haha
Reactions: jeepjoe43
I’m so ready to get mine back on the road. Still no reliability issues but I’m just burnt out on working on it. Dove into too many projects at once, although it didn’t make sense to do it any differently because it would have been a lot more work had I not. My ROI has been fine but I sure do hear you on the minimal miles in years….
You have had a lot of irons in the fire, my friend!
I've had the luxury of working on mine little by little, but it's mostly just been a Bug Hunt.

Trust is kinda important when you wheel alone in BFE.
And I'm still looking for the "Warm & Fuzzy".
 
Im guessin you still cant find the" flame out component" from the flat tire trip??
Haven't looked, or even seen the Jeep since then.
First day of a 9 day vacation, I just threw my hands in the air and caught a ride home.

She was going to lose the "Steering Wheel of Shame" that week too.
Now it's back to the penalty box...
 
When you reach a certain gear ratio/size, I think it's around the 3:70 mark, You have to change the cage. I went from 4:11 to 3:07 on the front axle to match the changed rear.....And found that cage/hanger wouldn't accept the ring or the spiders and had to buy the cage that would match it all up. Hope it helps

?u=https%3A%2F%2Ftse3.mm.bing.net%2Fth%3Fid%3DOIP.jpg
 
When you reach a certain gear ratio/size, I think it's around the 3:70 mark, You have to change the cage. I went from 4:11 to 3:07 on the front axle to match the changed rear.....And found that cage/hanger wouldn't accept the ring or the spiders and had to buy the cage that would match it all up. Hope it helps

View attachment 118413
You went from 4:10 TO 3.07?? I'm sorry...

The carrier breaks are at 3.73 for the front axle and 3.55 for the rear axle. Meaning the rear axle has a carrier for 3.07, and a carrier for 3.55-5.13. The front axle has a 3.07-3.55 carrier, and 3.73-5.13 carrier.
 
You went from 4:10 TO 3.07?? I'm sorry...

The carrier breaks are at 3.73 for the front axle and 3.55 for the rear axle. Meaning the rear axle has a carrier for 3.07, and a carrier for 3.55-5.13. The front axle has a 3.07-3.55 carrier, and 3.73-5.13 carrier.

Don't be.....It meets my requirements......Do a lot of highway cruising, And I bought a Jeep because I can't ride cycles anymore......
A YJ with no doors and a bikini top gets me as close to my half century lifestyle as possible. And honestly, I should have bought a Jeep
25 yrs. ago. I dig the lifestyle and the cool cats you meet along the way. I've been building bikes, cars and Pick-ups since I was a kid down Louisiana way, This Jeep I bought had the dreaded 2.5 with the AX-5 with 31's and the 4:11's....Dependable sure....But completely underwhelming power wise. So I found a wrecked '94 with a HO 4.0 and the AX-15 and swapped 'em.....And found out the hard way Jeep YJ's of those two years are Chrysler products and NOTHING interchanges....Would have small blocked it if I knew what I was going to get into, It would have been easier. BUT....I'm tickled to death over this engine, Speedo had 169,000 on the wreck but we all know the dependability of Jeep gauges...And it's silent compared the rattle bucket the 2.5 was. Had to use the rear out of the wreck because someone had welded a shock cleat in place of a broke one on the rear of the 4:11 that was one of the worse jobs I had ever seen.. The cleats didn't match and had the drivers side bottoming out if you went over anything over an inch high...And that's how I wound with the 3:07's so of course, Had to change out the gearing up front, And how I learned about the cage thingy......
I'm getting on in years so I really went deep with the rebuilds of the motor and axles.....Tranny's next because I'm guessing someone
serviced it and put the the wrong GL rating gear lube in it and destroyed the sync's....If you go over GL-3, They put in additives that destroy "Yellow" Metals thus bad syncs.....I can drive it, But I want it plum when I give it to my Daughter in I'm guessing a few years
down the road......Sorry if it's long winded........
 
All good about being long winded, my posts are almost always long winded.

Cool that you finally got into Jeep life. I like mine and miss driving it, still wrapping up a ton of projects I decided to undergo all at once. Nearly done but trouble finding the energy to get out there and wrap it up, so taking a break. My only comment about the gearing was just because 3.07 offers quite poor performance. If it works for you, great, for me I like 4.10-4.56 for 31's with the 4.0. Ran 4.10 on my 31's for years and it was good, sometimes I still wanted a bit lower though. But anyways, whatever suits you. Makes sense how you got there, not so much a matter of choice but just sequence of events with your axle replacement.

GL3 or GL4 are both fine, GL3 seems to be mostly obsolete. GL5 was the bad one and Chrysler filled every AX transmission with it. Dumb. The official rec from the manufacturer, Aisin Warner, is 75W90 GL3 (superseded to GL4 in modern day). Chrysler filled them with the wrong stuff and then printed all the owners manuals and factory service manuals incorrectly too which started a long slew of improper fluid advice. To this day, parts stores will still tell you to put GL5 in it. Later they issued a TSB to use 10W30 which works ok, although I don't think it shifts as well, likely because it has additives for an engine, not a transmission. Anyways, 10W30 is ok or you can use a GL4 synthetic for better shifting. I really like Redline MT90, some have used Royal Purple Synchromax with no issues. I'd advise against Pennzoil synchromesh as it's not really meant for the AX application, but more for the NV3550 and NSG370 applications of 2000+ Wranglers