New to the jeep world and frustration I have learned is just going to be happening. So where does one find a crank kit for a 258 for under 400$$ please let me know,thanks
Limited parts
- Thread starter Listed 90yj
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I was looking for one a couple of months ago myself. I couldn't find anything for under 500.00. I did price having the crank welded and ground but, even that was 350.00 and didn't include the bearings, etc.
OP
Yeah I haven't checked any machine shops yet but I have done a lot of online window shopping and cannot find anything under 500 .i have actually been driving lil red ( that's my jeeps name) until this morning heading to work and either a rod or main bearing nearly came apart. It has been making a slight knocking noise from some where in the back of the engine but my mechanic buddy said it wasn't a bearing. I think he's wrong about that and I will not destroy my 258 by continuing to drive it like that. But anyway thanks for the reply if I happen to find a sweet spot I will definitely post it. Thanks
Flyer58
YJ Enthusiast
How many miles are on your engine? If it's not a worn or spun bearing then it may be piston slap. They both sound the similar and I don't have enough experience to tell the difference. I had a 2000 Chevy with piston slap when the engine was cold and then went away as it warmed up. The dealer said it's ok and I drove it for another 150,000 miles without any trouble. I don't know about the 258 in a YJ. It may need to be rebuilt in either case.
The previous owner ran mine out of oil which caused a bearing to spin, the sound started off quiet but got very loud when the oil warmed up which is the opposite from what I had in the Chevy.
I had a machine shop redo the head, +.030 in the cylinders, and .010/.010 on the crank journals. All work plus a master rebuild kit for me to reassemble cast $1000 but it was a 2.5L 4cyl.
The previous owner ran mine out of oil which caused a bearing to spin, the sound started off quiet but got very loud when the oil warmed up which is the opposite from what I had in the Chevy.
I had a machine shop redo the head, +.030 in the cylinders, and .010/.010 on the crank journals. All work plus a master rebuild kit for me to reassemble cast $1000 but it was a 2.5L 4cyl.
OP
It shows 207296 on the odometer but neither it or the speedo has worked since I bought it about 9 months ago. An old retired car sales man sold it to me and all the mods but the nutter were already done but it was the owner before him that did it all. I don't know that guy. When I bought the jeep the po told me it needed a new carb but when I seen the set up on it I knew what it needed,to be nuttered. Did that and little red busted off hard and strong,probably the strongest and fastest inline 6cyl I have ever seen in person. She still runs very strong 60lb at cold start and at 190 45-50lb. Every body that I talked to about it at let them listen said not a bearing that a bearing would only get worse as temp went up. This noise starts loud and after it reaches 160-165 it disappears completely. This morning it started making a different kind of noise as the knocking was going away kinda like screeching hollow noise. So I've decided to park it pull the pan and have a look rather than ruin my engine. Really bites though because this is my dd. As quickly as I get the pan off I will post some pictures of what I find,any advice will help. Thanks
Flyer58
YJ Enthusiast
That knocking does sound like piston slap but I don't know about the screeching. Does that sound change when you step on the clutch or put it in drive (auto)?
When you get the pan off you may be able to reach up and feel if the piston skirt rocks left and right against the cylinder wall.
When you get the pan off you may be able to reach up and feel if the piston skirt rocks left and right against the cylinder wall.
OP
No it's an ax15. I've been through it already with it 2 months ago twice and finally figured out that it has been modified with external slave. I changed the clutch twice, the slave once only to find a brass bushing way up inside of the crankshaft end that was not allowing the new pilot bearing to seat right. But I did manage to get all that straightened out but to answer your question it's no difference with clutch in or out. I've never been inside an engine before,I've changed oil pan gaskets and valve cover gaskets so I don't know how much wiggle room it's supposed to have but I will see when I get there. I got under the jeep when I got home this afternoon and I'll be removing the manifolds when I get off tomorrow. There is only about a half of an inch clearance between it and the pan. So that will be first I guess. And thanks for the reply.
Could be a broken piston skirt, unlikely, but old engines don't like instant HP mods.
He'll know as soon as he drops the pan.
I'm curious about the "hollow screeching" too...
Had a bad thrust bearing do that to me when I was on the clutch, though it was not in a Jeep. (Wrecked the crank)
OP
OP
Flyer58
YJ Enthusiast
Those look normal to me. I expect there will be little difference in design between your bearings and my 2.5L bearings. With good oil pressure they're probably ok. If you want to go the next step you can easily check the bearing/journal clearance by removing a bearing cap and placing a strip of Plastigage between the bearing and the crank's journal. The bearing caps are matched so put the together the way they came out. I don't recall the specs off hand but it's in the service manual. I'll attach a pic.
Also here is a pic of my two bearings. The top bearing is one that spun (lack of oil) on the connecting rod and the lower is the main bearing with flanges you see on yours.
Also you should be able to check for piston slap now. Look for a youtube video about checking it.
Also here is a pic of my two bearings. The top bearing is one that spun (lack of oil) on the connecting rod and the lower is the main bearing with flanges you see on yours.
Also you should be able to check for piston slap now. Look for a youtube video about checking it.
OP
Ok so those are the thrust bearings. I really do appreciate your help it's getting late here and I have to lay a lot of block tomorrow so putting it away for the day. I'll pick up some plastigauge tomorrow and proceed forward. Is there a certain type I need or is it all the same? Thanks a lot.
Flyer58
YJ Enthusiast
It comes in different size/diameter and the color is based on it's size. I needed the green one and you'll probably need the same but I'd check the FSM first to sure what the tolerance is. I don't have that book, the spec is probably found online along with the procedure.
Let us know. Good luck.
Let us know. Good luck.
OP
Sorry I didn't get back with you quicker ok so I'm home from work now and I picked up some plastigage and I'm about to get under the jeep. One question about your last post what is the fsm? I have a Haynes repair manual will the specs be the same as those listed in there? Sorry that was 2 questions. Thanks
OP
This is the bottom side of the rear main does it look bad ? And it appears to have been changed. There was plenty of oil on the crankshaft and bearings. Im going to check clearance now.
Without having it my hand, I would say that looks like 200K+ bearing that's missed more than a few oil changes.
More important question is what does the journal on the crank look like?
Flyer58
YJ Enthusiast
The .010 indicates the crankshaft has been ground at one point and the bearing is over the standard size. The surface looks normal but I'm no pro.
FSM is factory service manual and there's a few on this website here
On the road now, might take a while to reply.
FSM is factory service manual and there's a few on this website here
On the road now, might take a while to reply.
OP
The crank journal is very smooth and shiny I ran the back side of my thumb nail side to side on it also very smooth. Also I decided to wait on checking the clearance until Saturday it's a little tough laying a house foundation all day and then trying to crawl around under the jeep all night. I did however look up inside the piston walls it was like looking in a mirror. I grabbed all the piston and tried to shake them anyway that I could and nothing not a wiggle. But I can move the connection rod ends side to side fairly easy. Is that normal? Thanks
OP