So I have a 1990 Jeep Wrangler Automatic 6 cylinder. I just had some new tires put on (31" before I put the 2.5" lift kit on) and while driving it home from the shop it started to leak transmission fluid onto the exhaust causing it to smoke really bad and it felt like I didn't have 3rd gear. I've checked the transmission fluid and its full where it needs to be and looks good to me. It now revs but will barely move at all unless you basically floor it. Is this a torque converter issue or anything else I can check to try and narrow it down? It is possible that being put up on the lift at the shop caused something to twist or something causing the issue? Never had this issue prior.
Jeep wrangler revs but won't go anywhere hardly
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When you say it is full, is this when the oil is hot with the Jeep running in neutral?
Does it struggle to shift when and if you get it up to speed?
Does it struggle to shift when and if you get it up to speed?
That is correct. Checked fluid after running for 15 minutes and in neutral. It would start out running fine then once I got a mile up the road I could see smoke bellowing out the back, its dripping transmission fluid onto the hot exhaust. It feels like it won't shift into third gear at that point. I turned around to come home and it barely limped back. 3000 rpms to go 5-10 mph. No grinding, or clunking or anything, just won't go anywhere when you give it gas.
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Sounds like the trans is done. Weak pump or converter gone which might push metal thru the internals.
Correction, when I checked the transmission fluid it wasn't in neutral. I added 2 quarts and was able to take it around the block. Somethings causing the leak so I can't go far. Any thoughts?
For leaks I would check the cooling lines first starting from the radiator. Check the oil pan bolts, to make sure it isn't the oil pan. My bolts have to be retorqued every now and then. My oil pan leaks and I have been putting it off to redo the gasket for a 4th time.
My oil teardrops off the bolts and leaks into the skid plate and from there the oil tear drops from the transmisson mount bolts on the skid plate.
If you don't see anything you may have a seal going bad. How many miles is on your transmission?
My oil teardrops off the bolts and leaks into the skid plate and from there the oil tear drops from the transmisson mount bolts on the skid plate.
If you don't see anything you may have a seal going bad. How many miles is on your transmission?
The seal will either be the input shaft from motor side or output shaft on TC side. Or a combinatiom of both.
You should be able to see the leak if it is the cooling lines or oil pan.
If it is a seal leak, I am not sure. You may have to remove the TC to inspect the rear seal or remove the transmission to inspect the front seal. Hopefully someone else can fill in on this.
Do you have oil spots or puddles underneath when you have it parked? Does the bottom of your transmission, mount, or TC look wet with oil?
If it is a seal leak, I am not sure. You may have to remove the TC to inspect the rear seal or remove the transmission to inspect the front seal. Hopefully someone else can fill in on this.
Do you have oil spots or puddles underneath when you have it parked? Does the bottom of your transmission, mount, or TC look wet with oil?
Another possible leak area will be the "Input shaft selector seal". It is located on the left side of the transmission where the shift linkage and neutral safety switch are. Read one source that states it is a common leak spot.
And to give you better names for the front and rear seal I mentioned earlier. The front seal is the "front pump seal" the rear seal is the "transfer case input shaft seal" I am still unsure how to inspect these, but you will have to remove the transmission to change the front seal. For the rear seal you just have to remove the transfer case out of the way. Hopefully, it is not the seals, as I am sure it will be a pain to change if DIY.
And to give you better names for the front and rear seal I mentioned earlier. The front seal is the "front pump seal" the rear seal is the "transfer case input shaft seal" I am still unsure how to inspect these, but you will have to remove the transmission to change the front seal. For the rear seal you just have to remove the transfer case out of the way. Hopefully, it is not the seals, as I am sure it will be a pain to change if DIY.
I would try redoing the gasket. It is more than a bit frustrating to do. I have attempted 3 times already. I may attempt again this weekend and try doing it with the skid plate off. I did it with the skid plate still on and I think trying to wiggle the pan with the gasket on between the exhaust pipe and drive shaft is making the gasket shift around before getting it on the transmission itself. That and I may try gasket with RTV.
I would also recommend long surgical gloves that go up to the elbows, a snorkel, goggles, and a hair cover.
My mess for 1st attempt. Water heater pan is perfect for this job.
May also be the pan itself not sealing to the gasket properly because of a horrible job done on the surface from PO:
May also be the pan itself not sealing to the gasket properly because of a horrible job done on the surface from PO:
The pan looks like its been bent a bit around the edges. Find a perfectly flat surface and set the pan on it. You will then see where the mating surface edge is bent up and likely not touching worth a poo. Use a light hammer of sorts and tap the edge until its flat and like new but dont beat the raised part out obviously. . Pretty common deal doing this with oil pans,timing covers etc. Get a good rubber gasket like Felpros and some brake clean to get all that fluid off the exhaust and see how it works out then for you.
Thanks, I will try this, I may even look into buying a new pan. I see that MOPAR still makes them for $86. There is also This One, a deep pan with drain plug for the A999 for $70. Which from my understanding the A999 and 32RH are the same except for the 32RH having the torque lock convertor.
The felpro gasket I bought wasn't rubber. It was more like a thick "felt" type gasket. I may try the Victor Reinz or Malhe.
This time I will be taking the skid plate off, it is layered with gunk because of the leak.
I'd buy the one with the drain plug. i'd probably get a lube locker gasket because I know they work well on diff covers in most cases.
A few bad reviews on Amazon and Quadratec of it not seating properly and leaking more than the others is scaring me a bit.
P4007886AC
You might see if you can find that one. That one used to be the one to get...Mopar, drain plug, works well. It's discontinued now, but it was only ever like 50-60 bucks when it was available. It was available just earlier this year so you might be able to find one floating around.
My apologies, I meant bad reviews for the Lubelocker Gasket. The only issue I see for the deep pan is I have to see if I have room for the exhaust/muffler hanger. I think there is also a hole for a temp sensor, but the photos don't show the other side of the pan to see if there it another hole beside the drain plug. I saw a photo on Amazon of the temp sensor, but the guy said he welded it in.