Is the bleed line for the clutch slave cylinder supposed to have play?

Bentzocie

Bentzocie

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Dec 30, 2021
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89yj 4.2 slave cylinder inside tranny. Should the bleeding line supposed to have play I can slide it 4 inches in and out of the port on the side. I just had tranny rebuilt and new clutch put in 5000 miles ago. When I bleed it I get clutch for about 10 miles than nothing no pressure on the clutch can't go in gear or out. Replaced master 3 times already.
 
The sliding in and out is most likely normal with the internal slave because that tube is "L" shaped and can pivot where the end goes into the slave cylinder.

Bleeding it can be a real pain. Do you see any fluid dripping out anywhere? Sounds like air is getting back into the system after bleeding it. It might be leaking at the quick connect on the inlet side of the slave cylinder. Make sure that connection in clean and the o-rings are good.

Did you also install a new slave cylinder along with the clutch?
 
The movement is normal. The loss of pedal sounds like air in the line but we need to ask are you losing fluid, any dripping of a clearish fluid from the bell housing bottom?? if so the shop may need to install a new slave as it may be bad.
 
Most recommend replacing the master and slave as a must. I believe most places sell them together as a pair. When I did my clutch I only did the slave which is basically the throw out bearing and had no problems bleeding it etc. hard to say what clutch kit the shop used but most agree Luk are tops in quality. if your losing fluid which is brake fluid from the master/slave/TO bearing there is obviously a problem. Hopefully the shop makes good on it warranty wise. I did this on one of my bikes front brakes which I thought was a joke but it worked. I bled and bled and flushed the MC and calipers and could only get a bit of brakes at the very end of the lever stroke. I pumped them up best It would go and the duct taped the lever to the handle bars. Low and behold the next morn when I released the lever I had a firm and barely moving front brake lever. Guess at this point you have little to lose by pumping the clutch up for all it can get an take a 2x4 or something like that and hold the pedal to the floor and see if it bleeds out any air in the system. if you have a nice big puddle under the trans/bell housing then you know for sure the slave/TO is junked.
 
Gilaguy23 said:
Most recommend replacing the master and slave as a must. I believe most places sell them together as a pair. When I did my clutch I only did the slave which is basically the throw out bearing and had no problems bleeding it etc. hard to say what clutch kit the shop used but most agree Luk are tops in quality. if your losing fluid which is brake fluid from the master/slave/TO bearing there is obviously a problem. Hopefully the shop makes good on it warranty wise. I did this on one of my bikes front brakes which I thought was a joke but it worked. I bled and bled and flushed the MC and calipers and could only get a bit of brakes at the very end of the lever stroke. I pumped them up best It would go and the duct taped the lever to the handle bars. Low and behold the next morn when I released the lever I had a firm and barely moving front brake lever. Guess at this point you have little to lose by pumping the clutch up for all it can get an take a 2x4 or something like that and hold the pedal to the floor and see if it bleeds out any air in the system. if you have a nice big puddle under the trans/bell housing then you know for sure the slave/TO is junked.
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I seem to have a similar problem. I bled the clutch. It was working perfectly then just went dead. Peddle would go to the floor, no clutch. I have not lost any fluid. I'm going to bleed it again just to make sure there is no air in the system, and test it again.
 
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