HRDROKN's 1994 YJ build to 109"

HRDROKN

HRDROKN

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Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 5, 2023
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Location
Nor-Cal
Hey just wanted to share this build with you all.... I have a few things left before she is back on the trail and I will have to back track a bit as I've already completed the front stretch.... I'll cover that in detail.

This is a short video of the rear stretch using a Motobilt back half kit.... I have plenty of pics as well.

 
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ytradio said:
Going to use this kit myself but I will be using XJ leaf’s with it.
Click to expand...
I think the leaf sprung Jeep is really underrated these days.... I've built a couple of CJ7's that crawled well on the rocks, especially if the leaf packs are set up right!

That will be a nice rig!
 
HRDROKN said:
I think the leaf sprung Jeep is really underrated these days.... I've built a couple of CJ7's that crawled well on the rocks, especially if the leaf packs are set up right!

That will be a nice rig!
Click to expand...
I personally believe that the setup you are using will definitely provide the most articulation, but I am a leaf spring guy that likes to keep things as simple as possible.
 
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Here are some of the details for the front stretch.... I was looking to get four inches with a steering box relocation. So with that the factory front x-member had to go, but before that was to get cut out I used a Motobilt full width conversion bumper (made for leaf spring rig) without using the spring perches....

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;)
 
With the bumper serving dual purposes.... moving on to the steering box relocation.

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:cool:
 
Coilover hoop kit from GenRight, had to make up a little jig while I get everything mocked up and tac welded...

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(y)
 
Jumping forward..... finished up the rear brake lines, all in stainless. All bled and any leaks tightened up.

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;)
 
In between getting these axles in and sorted, I decided this was the time to swap in a 2012 Rubicon case... which has brought me a couple of issues.

First, I didn't find anyone documenting this swap with a T18 or NP435 trans and discovered that you can't clock the TC flat.... front drive shaft hits the clutch fork. So i clocked it down once and still needs another 1/2" of clearance, so now I need to limit my bump or clock the damn thing again, which is clearly getting away from how the TC was designed to run. If I clock it again my solution will be to overfill the oil level. A lot of crap for 130:1 low range.

Clocked flat she sits in there real nice with 1.5" body lift and a 2" skid plate....

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Clocked down one set of holes, not bad as she is just flush with the skid plate now, but the front drive shaft still hits the clutch fork.... :(
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:unsure:
 
My second issue is no speed sensor provisions on a later model NP241OR as the later models get the speed input from the wheels. Well, I was thinking I didn't need the speedo anyway, I could just use a app off my phone. I didn't realize that the ECM/ECU might want this info! She threw a check engine light in protest... didn't notice any drivability issues, but with an active engine light, that's a no bueno for California style emissions inspection.

Lots of research and then I found this....

GPS Speed/ Compass Sender/ BIM

Dakota Digital manufactures digital instrumentation and accessories for the automotive, motorcycle and car audio enthusiast.
www.dakotadigital.com

I'll call Monday and verify that this will drive the speed signal required.

🙏
 
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