Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler YJ engine mounts

Help with 4WD indicator light

Good stuff, thanks. I agree, I like the original flares.
You will slightly rub the leaf springs with 31’s but you can just adjust the steering stops a bit with a washer under each one and it will fix it. You won’t notice the very slightly decreased turning radius.
 
If you are still with me, a question. I took out the 4 tube harness and inspected. All tubes are in great shape. In testing the lines, there is one that leads from 4 prong plug, terminating by the dipstic, drooping down, with a bulb end on it. I feel air leaking out of it when I push air through with a compressor. What is that end for, and should it leak air?
 
If you are still with me, a question. I took out the 4 tube harness and inspected. All tubes are in great shape. In testing the lines, there is one that leads from 4 prong plug, terminating by the dipstic, drooping down, with a bulb end on it. I feel air leaking out of it when I push air through with a compressor. What is that end for, and should it leak air?
Yes it should do that - it’s a vent. With the engine pulling vacuum, air has to flow into the system somehow. Similar to a plumbing vent.
 
Great, thank you! Although no vacuum at 2 leads by front axle leave me still stumped. I think I'm defeated.
If you put compressed air on the holes at the 4-port plug that correspond to the axle, can you get any air out of the front? How about if someone plugs the axle end holes with their fingers? Any hissing from the middle of the harness maybe?

It’s bizarre the issue you’re having. Maybe the leads going to the axle touched something hot and melted shut. The exhaust is in the area where the vac harness runs by the transmission. Maybe something happened there.

Might be better off removing the vacuum harness for further inspection. If you end up going posilock, then step 1 would already be complete. Best case, it helps you find your issue and you reinstall problem solved.
 
I removed the entire harness, took off the protective sleeve, inspected every milimeter for cracks or breaks, all good. I sort of did what you suggested, putting air in, blocking end, no leaks anywhere. It seems now that either the original and replacement switch are bad, or an issue inside transfer case is not depressing the button. I can shift into 4hi and 4 low, and feel the low gearing. I'll order a new switch from mopar, guess I might as well go one more step.
 
I removed the entire harness, took off the protective sleeve, inspected every milimeter for cracks or breaks, all good. I sort of did what you suggested, putting air in, blocking end, no leaks anywhere. It seems now that either the original and replacement switch are bad, or an issue inside transfer case is not depressing the button. I can shift into 4hi and 4 low, and feel the low gearing. I'll order a new switch from mopar, guess I might as well go one more step.
 
I removed the entire harness, took off the protective sleeve, inspected every milimeter for cracks or breaks, all good. I sort of did what you suggested, putting air in, blocking end, no leaks anywhere. It seems now that either the original and replacement switch are bad, or an issue inside transfer case is not depressing the button. I can shift into 4hi and 4 low, and feel the low gearing. I'll order a new switch from mopar, guess I might as well go one more step.
Gotcha. Do you know if the original switch in there was Mopar or was it aftermarket too?

Aftermarket switches (both vacuum for YJ and electric for TJ) are notorious for the ball being too small (small ball syndrome), and they end up not actuating when the tcase shifter cycles. So if aftermarket was in there, that may have been the problem to begin with and the new aftermarket switch just gave you more of the same.
 
Aftermarket switches and sensors have always been junk, nowadays, they're even worse than before with the parts shortages. It's highly possible you got a bad one. That dropping part you're talking about is called the "air vent filter", it's connected to one leg of your transfer case vacuum switch. Then two of those legs are connected to the two lines going to the front axle and the other is connected to the vacuum source check valve up in the engine bay.

Here's the section from the FSM on how to diagnose that system. Follow that flow chart as best you can. When I worked on military aircraft, those of us that could use these types of troubleshooting guides properly were way ahead of the game when it came to working on stuff. The guys who made these manuals know lots of stuff and did lots of R&D on these things.

Don't give up, you'll figure it out and your Jeep will remain somewhat as they intended.

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Oh shit, now you are becoming my mentor. Ok, good pep talk and I will go through that flow chart decision tree meticulously. I tried to order a new switch from dealer, and was told discontinued and not available anywhere in usa. Another jeep poster suggested mopar part 53001101AB, which looks like a Dodge Ram part. Pics look like a match tho. I'll have to find a reputable reseller out there.
 
Oh shit, now you are becoming my mentor. Ok, good pep talk and I will go through that flow chart decision tree meticulously. I tried to order a new switch from dealer, and was told discontinued and not available anywhere in usa. Another jeep poster suggested mopar part 53001101AB, which looks like a Dodge Ram part. Pics look like a match tho. I'll have to find a reputable reseller out there.
The factory YJ part is discontinued. The Ram part is essentially the same part just with a revision at the end of the number (AB). I bought it and it looks and fits fine. I haven’t started my YJ to test out that switch yet but it should work fine I’m pretty sure.

Considering YJ was 53001101 and Ram is 53001101AB and looks and fits the same, I think it’ll be fine.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler YJ engine mounts