D30 Build

jeepjoe43 said:
Got the old Ball Joints out, but they were brinnelled, which has compromised the press fit of the stock Spicers.
My Spicers almost don't need a press to install, not good.
OMIX splined joints are ordered, we'll see what happens...Also ordered Loctite 64- something bearing lock as a last resort.
But I really don't want to fuck around with something as critical as ball joints, this has to be right and right the first time.
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Damn really? I didn't think about that....when I had installed those last time, I actually checked the spicers (previous had been knurled also)....the spicers I was going to use back then were no issue and still had plenty of resistance.

I have heard that Loctite 638? And dimpling the spicer body will fix it up.
 
I thought I had seen this before. Loctite 609 is what he used. Seems like it's a permanent solution. It helps that the Spicers last a freaking long time.

Spicer Fix
 
Hadn't thought about that!
Well, I've got splined joints & Loctite 648 coming.
Probably use both just to be double dog sure.
Would rather have had the higher quality Spicers, but I'm not driving a lot of city miles or turning huge rubber.
Maybe I'm just being anal...
 
I guess best course of action for now is to see how the Omix look when they arrive. If they appear quality, run them, if not, probably run the Spicers and do the dimpling and loctite. Worst case, you're running small tires and ideally won't be killing ball joints. You'll probably kill unit bearings before you ever wear out ball joints, if I had to guess.

I bet Moog and some of the other decent quality brands are splined.

That's a bummer that happened. Didn't occur to me during our whole transaction...I was personally going to run it (with spicers too) until my buddy stumbled upon the other one we built.
 
Copy that.
Don't sweat it brother, you're blameless.
You're probably right about wearing out unit bearings first, but everything is new.
I just wanted the higher quality because of the way I know I'm going to use it, you saw pics and know how I used my old Jeep!
I'll get there. one way or another.
 
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jeepjoe43 said:
I've got 2.5"
I ordered the Rubi heavy duty tie rod kit with 1/4" wall tube and 7/8" TREs.
Thinking about putting a couple of small, strategic "kinks" in it, maybe add gussets.
Don't think that's gonna compromise the strength enough to worry about.
Though I'm still tossing around the flip.
Your's looks good and that might just send me there.
Good tip on the pitman!

Yeah, I saw that on cutting off the track arm mount, what did you use to do the job?
I'm thinking Sawsall? Maybe zizz-wheel? Not using it anyway.

You know you're talking me into this? Right?
BTW, how do you like that OX?
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Sorry just saw your post. The ox is working great so far, I have it running off a small paintball CO2 tank mounted on the bar behind the driver. If anything I could place the switch better, right now it's under the dash which is kind of a pain to get to. For cutting the track mount, I just used a cut-off wheel on a 4.5" grinder.
 
skyzero said:
Sorry just saw your post. The ox is working great so far, I have it running off a small paintball CO2 tank mounted on the bar behind the driver. If anything I could place the switch better, right now it's under the dash which is kind of a pain to get to. For cutting the track mount, I just used a cut-off wheel on a 4.5" grinder.
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Well, my Rubi's didn't turn out to be what I was expecting, the YJ is a one off, and not conducive to doing a flip.
Damn it.
I'll just adjust the stops, I'm used to closed knuckle front axles that don't have any turning radius anyway.
No Big...
As far as the OX is concerned, I'm going to have them in both ends and both mechanically (cable) actuated.
They've been locking commercial and AG diffs this way for 100+ years, I like simple.
 
I guess best course of action for now is to see how the Omix look when they arrive. If they appear quality, run them, if not, probably run the Spicers and do the dimpling and loctite.
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Just got the OMIX BJ's and believe it or not, they actually look like better quality.
Really like the black oxide coating, Spicers are bare steel.
And the lowers are greasable, the Spicers aren't.
The uppers appear to have longer telescoping distance, too.
Guessing that is to improve strength as well?

Just did a fit check, and Oh Yeah, they're gonna be a good press!
Not going to bother with the Loctite, oh well, I'll find other uses for it.
 
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jeepjoe43 said:
Just got the OMIX BJ's and believe it or not, they actually look like better quality.
Really like the black oxide coating, Spicers are bare steel.
And the lowers are greasable, the Spicers aren't.
The uppers appear to have longer telescoping distance, too.
Guessing that is to improve strength as well?

Just did a fit check, and Oh Yeah, they're gonna be a good press!
Not going to bother with the Loctite, oh well, I'll find other uses for it.
Click to expand...
Excellent! Good to hear it’ll work out. Bummer about spending extra money but at least you know you have a solution now.
 
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machoheadgames said:
Excellent! Good to hear it’ll work out. Bummer about spending extra money but at least you know you have a solution now.
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Minor snag on test fitting, the Spicer lowers aren't greasable for a reason, a zerk won't clear the axle.
Guess I gotta buy some zerk plugs, no big, ACE probably has those for less than a buck. Meh...
 
This is why we test fit everything on the bench First.
P6210069.JPG

Too close for a Zert.
The plug is actually out of my tie-rod kit, but there is only one and it must be in the kit for reason.

P6210068.JPG

Rest of the new stuff including the Raybestos extended brake line that Macho turned me on to.
Very nice, and inexpensive to boot! One line cost about as much as both banjo bolts.
I thought tube seals might be also be a nice addition to those FAT chromos, since I'm here.

P6210070.JPG

Other side..Coated caliper and rotor from Rock.
Nothing Earth shattering here.
 
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jeepjoe43 said:
This is why we test fit everything on the bench First.
View attachment 118070
Too close for a Zert.
The plug is actually out of my tie-rod kit, but there is only one and it must be in the kit for reason.

View attachment 118071
Rest of the new stuff including the Raybestos extended brake line that Macho turned me on to.
Very nice, and inexpensive to boot! One line cost about as much as both banjo bolts.
I thought tube seals might be also be a nice addition to those FAT chromos, since I'm here.

View attachment 118072
Other side..Coated caliper and rotor from Rock.
Nothing Earth shattering here.
Click to expand...
Yeah spicer doesn’t put a grease fitting in there for clearance reasons I’m sure. I ran synergys for a while and they had a grease fitting on the bottom, but it was low profile and built to an angle. Worked fine. The synergy joints were garbage though, died in like two years and over twice the price of spicer. That is by far the quickest waste of money I have incurred. And funny enough, the 22 year old stockers I swapped out at the time were still working perfectly fine. Talk about a downgrade.
 
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machoheadgames said:
Yeah spicer doesn’t put a grease fitting in there for clearance reasons I’m sure. I ran synergys for a while and they had a grease fitting on the bottom, but it was low profile and built to an angle. Worked fine. The synergy joints were garbage though, died in like two years and over twice the price of spicer. That is by far the quickest waste of money I have incurred. And funny enough, the 22 year old stockers I swapped out at the time were still working perfectly fine. Talk about a downgrade.
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That's a good "Heads Up", I looked at those too!
We'll see how the OMIX's (Under the Rugged Ridge brand) do.
Man you were right about everything being re-branded, running into it so much of that you just about can't get away from it.
 
jeepjoe43 said:
That's a good "Heads Up", I looked at those too!
We'll see how the OMIX's (Under the Rugged Ridge brand) do.
Man you were right about everything being re-branded, running into it so much of that you just about can't get away from it.
Click to expand...
Yeah.....that's why I'm at the point where I really want my factory stuff for as long as it possibly can because I really don't like the either crappy, or nonexistent solutions for most of it. And finding used parts on a lot of stuff is hard too.
 
Got a question for you;
Is there a particular grease that you prefer?

Only ask since I'm thinking about pre-lubing the lower joints before I plug them and won't have access once it's all assembled.
Not sure I trust what looks like vaseline in them from the factory, but I dunno...
 
jeepjoe43 said:
Got a question for you;
Is there a particular grease that you prefer?

Only ask since I'm thinking about pre-lubing the lower joints before I plug them and won't have access once it's all assembled.
Not sure I trust what looks like vaseline in them from the factory, but I dunno...
Click to expand...
I don’t have a particular grease really. It’s been so long since I greases a ball joint, I’d probably just use any chassis stuff, the same stuff the lube boys would use if you took it in for an oil change. They’ll probably be fine with now they are though if I had to guess.
 
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