Center Axle Disconnect Replacement Options
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
I just know it works. I don’t know of any other seal that reliably works in the passenger tube for a straight shaft which isn’t designed for a seal.
Really? Good to know.....I'm fixing to go into the front and replace all seals both sides.....
Do you have the front axle disconnect still or is it deleted? That seal won’t do you any good unless you’re converting or converted already. For a stock non modified YJ axle you need a different seal that goes in the CAD housing.
I've got a pair of seals that came with my block off plate, oddly enough they are for the CAD axle.
Useless to me, if you're interested in them, PM me and I'll send them USPS, gratis.
If you are replacing all the seals, I might also recommend adding tube seals.
I'm doing them to keep sand and mud away from the axle seals.
I got the Rugged Ridge/OMIX/Alloy USA seals, pn 11105.
That's the pn for the red ones, they do also make them in black, about $80.
Useless to me, if you're interested in them, PM me and I'll send them USPS, gratis.
If you are replacing all the seals, I might also recommend adding tube seals.
I'm doing them to keep sand and mud away from the axle seals.
I got the Rugged Ridge/OMIX/Alloy USA seals, pn 11105.
That's the pn for the red ones, they do also make them in black, about $80.
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Standard stock connected functional Dana-30....Have already gotten the inner-seals from O'Reilly's and have those new fangled machined aluminum one for the outsides....Just rebuilt it a few months back....If you just run around town it doesn't leak a drop,
But if you run it at highway speeds for awhile you get the dreaded viscous tire print on the shop floor...I'm thinking I have a vent problem thats building internal pressure and pushing it out past the seal...Will soon find out.....
Just the drivers.....Figured it was the weakest, And liquids taking the path of least resistance etc...........
Wow, that's abnormal. Almost always the passenger side intermediate shaft wears where it mates to the outer passenger shaft and wobbles slightly, killing the passenger side seal. The driver's side rarely goes bad. If you are not leaking on the passenger side, I would not touch it.
OK.....Replaced both seals this past weekend and found out that I could only use the new aluminum outer dust shield "Plug" on the drivers side because of the larger diameter axle on the passenger side. I have no problem going back in and eliminating the CAD and one piece the starboard axle....
But, I can't find anything on YT or the forums on what you have to do to get the 4X4 back on line sans CAD. Any links available?
Personally not a fan of those as they'll just make it harder to tell when you have an inner leak. If you insist on them and are going to do the one piece shaft mod, it's pretty easy.
Literally all you do is what you just did to change the seals, i.e. pull the carrier. put a Napa 11800 seal in the passenger side of the diff. Coat the outside of the seal with RTV before install. Hammer the seal in, but stop when you're in about the right spot because otherwise you'll just hammer that seal all the way down the tube.
For getting rid of the CAD you can delete all the vacuum lines. You can buy a fancy flat block off plate, make your own, or literally reuse the factory CAD cover. The fork will not interfere with the new shaft as it's skinnier.
If you wish to keep the light working then you need a TJ transfer case switch (OEM chrysler ones are available for cheap), and then you run your two wires that go to the CAD motor, over to the transfer case switch instead.
All good...My Jeepin' is light duty maybe drive off in a field or down a dirt road....Believe me, Got a Master course in installing inner seals on the D-30 with the drivers side going in smooth as butter but destroying four starboard side ones by trying to drive them in from the port side using a 36mm impact socket.
The socket matches up very well to the skirt of the seal, But we just couldn't get them to seat straight. Wound up using the all-thread/washer set up that the
Jeep solid dude posted on YT, And it worked like a dream. Have put about three hundred miles on them and everything is dry. Dude I really appreciate your knowledge and if you can explain to me the how to's and what to's to make the 4WD engage/disengage after I remove the CAD and two piece axle I'd be beholding to ya'.......
No problem, really there's nothing to it once the axle is converted. Your transfer case already sends power to the driveshaft as soon you shift it. The axle doesn't do anything until the CAD is engaged. The CAD engagement process starts to happen over the vacuum lines once the transfer case is shifted. It is of course not instant, as the shafts have to meet perfect alignment before the vacuum finally pulls the coupler over.
Getting rid of the CAD part takes all that out of the equation and as soon as you shift the t-case, power is going to that front axle. The only thing to do after converting the axle is (optionally), extending the wiring over to the transfer case and replacing the vacuum switch with the TJ switch. If you opt for that, then as soon as you shift to 4HI or 4LO, the light on the dash will come on.
Dude, I owe Ya'!! Any suggestions for the year axles to use for the single?
I got mine out of a TJ. Go ahead and grab the driver side too unless you don't mind having mismatched size u-joints.
Anything from about 97XJ to 2006 TJ should work. You can also take from I believe 92-95 XJ if you don't mind smaller ujoints. At least in that case you wouldn't feel the need to upsize the driver side.
Actually I see you have a 95 so you probably have the larger u-joints already, meaning anything from a 97-06 XJ or TJ should be good and that you would only need the passenger.
dshot59
New Member
You can take the cad off and flip it the other way slide the collar over and bolt it back up. No fuss no muss have the cad locked in 4 wheel without all the hassle, And have the option to go back if need be.
dshot59
New Member
You can take the cad off and flip it the other way slide the collar over and bolt it back up. No fuss no muss have the cad locked in 4 wheel without all the hassle, And have the option to go back if need be.
YampaVyj
New Member
1991 jeep yj, I just regeared and put one pice 27 spline axles in my yj. I ran the wiring to the transfer case and installed a Tj transfer case switch and when I go to 4x4 nothing. I pulled the switch and if I push on the round nipple that inserts into the t-case the light comes on. Looking at the old vacuums switch the nipple sticks out farther than the nipple on the electric switch so it looks like it does not engage when transfer case is shifted. Is there a specific model number for a tj switch with a longer nipple that will I have in my 1991 transfer case?
The Chrysler one (J8134473) is best but it is seemingly less and less available. Usually omix ada is the worst, crown and dorman mostly seem to be better. Definitely not a new issue, it 100% depends on the brand of switch purchased.
YampaVyj
New Member
so no luck finding a genuine Chrysler, The one I ordered that did NOT work was the Dorman, anyone else have any luck with another supplier?