94 4.0 and blown out frost / freeze plug

ShawnM

ShawnM

Member
Joined
May 21, 2020
Messages
93
Location
Oliver BC
Jeep had a rough start yesterday and once it was going I revved er up a bit and blew a frost plug. It’s the one with the stock block heater element, which I’ll replace with a regular plug. I got a new frost plug and crawled underneath my baby this morning and lo and behold I can’t do shit. The plug is between exhaust manifold pipes and unworkable from under. It looks like I might get at it from up top if I remove the intake manifold.
Has anybody got any ideas to spare me some grief? The only time I ever did this job was on a 170ci inline six in a 64 Falcon and it took 5 minutes. This one’s a real PITA.
 
on any car this is the real question is what parts
come off and bolts do not snap off.
no human on earth knows that . sorry.
you can see what is in the way, only luck wins here. things that come off and not be destroyed in the process.
ask only one in the salt belt. this.
if you check autofaq see if car lived in salt belts of canada , would be a huge clue , the problems to expect and even look under car
for vast rust,
 
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that heater plugs love to fail. many have bolt there that we tighten up, installed..
and has seals too (rubber?) that if 30years old are hard seals and cracked then loosens and it files out at 15psi pressure ! bam and engine overheats and or worse.
a shop guy looks inside the cylinder jackets to see if car was allowed to rust inside, and at the damage on the rear for that heater plug.
if the seals fail and no rust inside just replace it. (but we all know its not easy, with rusted bolts) called gaining access that does not cause more damage.
nobody on a forum can see the car or know the extent of rust on any car on earth. Impossible all you can do is try.
Abuse is not replacing Antifreeze say every 3 to 5 years, allowing the anti-rust chem's in it to fail hard. 3 years is good life, we can also use acid tests on the coolant to make sure it id not go acidic. (litmus strips)


seeing is believing. we look and see the damage and if it looks like the PO abused the car all ( new freeze,/core ) plugs replaced and 10x that is 1 seen weeping.
Im not sure if BC has salted roads but one look under the car and we see it is from Provence's full of salted roads ,we can in use run autofaqs and see
where the 30 year old car lived its whole life
but just one look under car is your answer. (I cant)

pulling the intake/exhaust MAN, the bolts love to snap, I'd use heat (torch) the heads of bolts before touching them with any wrench.
get them smok'n hot and spray PEN oil there and as it cools it sucks in the PEN lube and can help. there are now great youtube videos doing all this.

watch rust belt videos and learn. there are plenty to see.
 
no photo of your's
I thinks this is not going to work but is a way to reach some freeze (core ) plugs,
is it on center left core plug hole>?
some jeeps we can remove the left engine mount fully, (if not rusted in solid now) as many are in the salt belt (30 years in that is a horror)
4.0L I-6 engine left side (means drivers perspective
some heaters were installed not by jeep that is a fact. and crazy hard to prove yes/no.
and is moot, only the dure is a topic

mounts is the topic first. blocking acesss. (and manifolds) toss coin?

YT



these bolts pulled with front of engine lifted just a tad (jacked)<<video2

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there are are rubber freeze plug options ( the word freeze plug means as the water(not AF) hits +24F degrees the water freezes and expands and blows out the freeze /core plugs. most time wrecking the engine. +24f is the worst temp of all, due to gross expansion of the ice. my car has -30F protection.
there are rubber core plugs sold (with bolt nut device) too, and may allow installation of more easily.

he pulled the manifolds

not the rubber plug


and last manifold bolts
a pro

 
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Dorf said:
there are are rubber freeze plug options ( the word freeze plug means as the water(not AF) hits +24F degrees the water freezes and expands and blows out the freeze /core plugs. most time wrecking the engine. +24f is the worst temp of all, due to gross expansion of the ice. my car has -30F protection.
there are rubber core plugs sold (with bolt nut device) too, and may allow installation of more easily.

he pulled the manifolds

not the rubber plug


and last manifold bolts
a pro

Click to expand...
That last video is exactly how I've successfully done it for years. Works 99% of the time.

The CRC lube is good but I prefer Kroil. It only takes one drop and let it soak in. I find it does evaporate like PB Blaster does. Back and forth motion and add another drop to make it easier.
 
I flush every year whether it needs it or not, And I never have cooling/freezing problems. And we have ball busting winters here with stretches that stay below
hard freezing for weeks.
Flyer58 said:
That last video is exactly how I've successfully done it for years. Works 99% of the time.

The CRC lube is good but I prefer Kroil. It only takes one drop and let it soak in. I find it does evaporate like PB Blaster does. Back and forth motion and add another drop to make it easier.
Click to expand...
I got turned on to the Seafoam version and I like it way better that Kroil for one reason...It smells pretty! And it works just as well, And I've been using Kroil since the eighties.....

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