87 YJ floor replacement

PCS

Primal Concrete Sledge
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2020
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31
Location
North Carolina
So instead of replacing sections of the floor I just opt'd for the entire thing. The driver side front is bad enough to Flintstone it and the bolts for the seats had to be cut off because they were rusted into the floor, as are the sport bar bolts at the waterfall section where it meets the floor pan behind the front seats, so rather than deal with months of frustration and repair, I ordered the Keyparts fully weld floor and water fall sections. The rear pan where the back seat was, is perfect, even underneath the Jeep. Question is, have any of you guys went this route? I'm I missing anything that you can think of from the Waterfall section forward... this looks to be everything needed. I've hired a local body shop with an excellent reputation to install this stuff, I just don't have the tooling or the skill set for major body work. The waterfall section has arrived already, the fully welded floor will be here at the end of the month. I bought both from JEGS.

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Pictures? And keep us posted of progress!

I'll get some as it goes off to the body shop after the first of the year so you guys can see its current state. Like I said, the floor won't be here until the end of the month and I have the waterfall section already.
 
Replacing my floor also and thought of using the full floor but decided against it. The reason being I am doing it all by myself, and that is going to be a large heavy piece. But the biggest reason is that it will be hard to keep the tub shape true when all of the floor is gone. Granted your shop will be much better prepared to handle that than I am. My center tunnel section is ok but everything else is practically gone. So I opted to buy each section separately and paying more overall but can do one section at a time. Also, I had to make a decision as to how far I wanted to keep going replacing everything that was not good, and using some rust converter on the less bad stuff and just making it work. Actually just got restarted on the body work yesterday after about 10 months of drive train and engine rebuild.
 
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Replacing my floor also and thought of using the full floor but decided against it. The reason being I am doing it all by myself, and that is going to be a large heavy piece. But the biggest reason is that it will be hard to keep the tub shape true when all of the floor is gone. Granted your shop will be much better prepared to handle that than I am. My center tunnel section is ok but everything else is practically gone. So I opted to buy each section separately and paying more overall but can do one section at a time. Also, I had to make a decision as to how far I wanted to keep going replacing everything that was not good, and using some rust converter on the less bad stuff and just making it work. Actually just got restarted on the body work yesterday after about 10 months of drive train and engine rebuild.

If I was doing that myself I'd probably still go the same route. You can brace the tub by welding in some DOM tubing above the floor in key areas, ...its extra work but would hold the tubs shape perfectly while you install the new floor. The fully welded floor is a HUGE piece, perhaps you could have recruited a couple of friends to help lay it in and make some tack welds. But there's nothing wrong with the way you're doing it, the job still gets done.

I hope it all goes smoothly for you and works out man.

Yeah, the body shop has a rotisserie and all the tools, skilled workers necessary... I have been doing all the other stuff myself including a full engine rebuild, transfer case mod and rebuild, I cheated and bought a brand new AX15 kit to replace my Peugeot. I have all new stainless steel brake lines to run, everything else is brand new and just needs to be installed right down to new lock cylinders for the full doors. Everything is coming apart and being rebuilt with new or new old stock parts, there's a lot to do.
 
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If I was doing that myself I'd probably still go the same route. You can brace the tub by welding in some DOM tubing above the floor in key areas, ...its extra work but would hold the tubs shape perfectly while you install the new floor. The fully welded floor is a HUGE piece, perhaps you could have recruited a couple of friends to help lay it in and make some tack welds. But there's nothing wrong with the way you're doing it, the job still gets done.

I hope it all goes smoothly for you and works out man.

Yeah, the body shop has a rotisserie and all the tools, skilled workers necessary... I have been doing all the other stuff myself including a full engine rebuild, transfer case mod and rebuild, I cheated and bought a brand new AX15 kit to replace my Peugeot. I have all new stainless steel brake lines to run, everything else is brand new and just needs to be installed right down to new lock cylinders for the full doors. Everything is coming apart and being rebuilt with new or new old stock parts, there's a lot to do.

Yes it is a lot to do. And I do have quite a bit of 1 1/2 x 3/16 angle bracing holding the shape as much as possible on the top side but on the lower side it would be in the way and just make things too difficult. Your way is the best if you are able to do it. But I have done everything by myself, the only help was from the truck driver that delivered my new frame, just helped me get it off the truck. And also a friend came to help when my new axles came and we had to unload from a tractor trailer. I had just had a knee replacement and no way to do it by myself. Also, the condition of my tub makes it impossible for me to justify paying for body work. I don’t think anyone else would think of repairing it, but it will serve my purpose as this is just an off road toy.
 
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