1995 Wrangler Rio Grande Build

BroBrad

BroBrad

New Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2020
Messages
16
Location
Mississippi
I’m new to the Jeep world. I have been a diesel/truck guy doing conversions and alternative fuel stuff! I built project with both of my boys that they still drive. My 20 yr old daughter has always loved jeeps. I picked up a 1995 wrangler that I’d literally totally disassembled for a rebuild that never happened. He did put new tires on it that are now rotten lol. All of the bolts are bagged and if you are labeled, but they are rusty. I am looking to buy a crate motor and rebuild it from the ground up. I am curious about the stainless steel bolt kits that I have seen on the web. They are stainless and a bit pricey.

Does anyone know of a carbon steel or OEM sort of kit for bolts? Also I am open to any and all advice you might have as we begin this build together. The Motor was disassembled as well. He did leave the pistons on the crank and unfortunately the two center pistons had water stand in them. I managed to brush them pretty good and let it stand with WD-40 soaking a while . I was able to get it to eventually go through complete strokes.

It might be alright with honing and some rings. He said it was a drunken decision to tear it all down for some upgrades. It was running when he tore it down with 183000 miles. So, I will likely just go with a long block crate motor. Bolts are bagged and labeled... sorta. It'll be a fun project. Any points or help much appreciated. I'm going to read the stickies and explore. I do need to get a pretty complete bolt kit due to rust on the stock ones. I have found some stainless, but they are a bit pricey. Any leads on carbon /oem kit would be great.

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Well.... I am considering motor options. I can build the motor to long block status for about $825.00 or i can get a "reman" for $1930. Funds are tight, but I want it done right. I have no issues with the mechanical side of putting it all together, but the 7 year warranty is nice. I can build it twice for that kind of money though??? I'm still waiting on the P/O to get all the parts to me... if he has lost the exhaust, fuel tank etc. its going to nickel and dime me to death. I have found a tub, engine, frame, axles about 300 miles away on the cheap. However i have no confidence that the motor would be any good, but having the "extra's" would be nice. Thinking of the Raptorliner for the finish in the original green or blue...
 
I am looking disappointed that the guy was not totally honest about the engine that came with this jeep. It was supposed to be plug and play, however I knew it was a possibility.
Here are my options:
1) Build myself- Machining and new parts from the machine shop- (about 3 weeks) $1150.00
2) Buy a long block from O'reilly (power torque) 3 year 36k warranty (about 2 weeks) $1400.00
3) S and J Engine long block 7 Year Unlimited Warranty (4 weeks) $1950.00

There are a few other long block options, but these are I've considered to be of any value. A used engine with 108000 miles is $1100 with no guarantee.
 
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Did that "bumper" (for lack of a better term) come welded on the frame like that? Is it actually welded to the frame?

That's some real redneck shit right there if so :LOL:
 
Chris said:
Did that "bumper" (for lack of a better term) come welded on the frame like that? Is it actually welded to the frame?

That's some real redneck shit right there if so :LOL:
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Yes, it came that way. I plan to evaluate the situation..... it’s coming off for sure. I may consider another frame altogether. There are several out there.
 
BroBrad said:
Yes, it came that way. I plan to evaluate the situation..... it’s coming off for sure. I may consider another frame altogether. There are several out there.
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It always amazes me at some of the crap that previous owners will do, seriously.

I guess you'll have to see how bad it really is once you evaluate. Like you said, there are other frames out there.
 
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Chris said:
It always amazes me at some of the crap that previous owners will do, seriously.

I guess you'll have to see how bad it really is once you evaluate. Like you said, there are other frames out there.
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Yup.... I’m not sure what I’d be able to do after I cut it off. Worst case scenario I can built bolt on brackets with some plate on the end of the frame and go from there.
 
BroBrad said:
Yup.... I’m not sure what I’d be able to do after I cut it off. Worst case scenario I can built bolt on brackets with some plate on the end of the frame and go from there.
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Yeah, you'd have to get the frame back to the stock setup so that you could use a bolt-on bumper. Depending on how much fuckery the previous owner did, that could be a lot of work.
 
So, I’m down to the frame on the Resto. About to blast, KSB and then top coat. In looking at my differential covers I have a Dana 30 with 4.11 up front and Dana 35 will 4.10 in rear. That’s what is stamped on the ID plates. Is that fairly standard for them to be different for more aggressive traction?
 
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BroBrad said:
So, I’m down to the frame on the Resto. About to blast, KSB and then top coat. In looking at my differential covers I have a Dana 30 with 4.11 up front and Dana 35 will 4.10 in rear. That’s what is stamped on the ID plates. Is that fairly standard for them to be different for more aggressive traction?
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Doesn't have anything to do with traction, just comes down to the two axles being different and the way they designed the teeth. As in, 37 tooth ring gear with 9 tooth pinion (4.11), 41 tooth ring gear with 10 tooth pinion (4.10), etc. Just comes down to what the gear manufacturer thought was best for the design of the R&P for that axle. So you ended up with 4.10 and 4.11, which are close enough to be absolutely no issue and are considered the same ratio.

Typically you have more difference between all your tire diameters due to air pressure, than you would have in the difference between 4.11 and 4.10 ratios.
 
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Got some more work done... The AX5 was trashed. I totally dismantled it and was going to rebuild it. Fifth gear set was shattered. It had water/silt in the transmission at some point. I was told it was all good. Chalk it up to another lesson learned. I picked up another ax5 & 231 and some wheels/tires for $525. It was five tires and wheels with only a few thousand miles on them. Blasted and KBS on the frame today. The KBS Rust Seal went on super smooth with the Cheap HVLP Spray gun from HF and the Black top was just the same. I was amazed at the coverage I got spraying on (no thinner- 1.4 tip)
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A little progress. A couple more parts to be blasted. New brakes, wheel cylinders, bearings, axle seals and drums. Going to paint engine and exhaust manifold with KBS coatings this evening.

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A little progress. A couple more parts to be blasted. New brakes, wheel cylinders, bearings, axle seals and drums. Going to paint engine and exhaust manifold with KBS coatings this evening.
 
A little progress. A couple more parts to be blasted. New brakes, wheel cylinders, bearings, axle seals and drums. Going to paint engine and exhaust manifold with KBS coatings this evening.
 
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