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The Seatbelt solutions are what I bought a couple months ago and I see that they are even higher now. Good selection of colors, can find about anyone you could want.

I can’t tell you the exact difference in the two but they are similar enough that I can’t imagine that there isn’t enough adjustment in the TJ net that it couldn’t be made to fit. It is just straps. I definitely would give it a try.

The pinion is pointing up too high as it sits in photo. Go to Tom Woods drive shaft web sight, and it tells how to measure drive line angles and has a calculator that will give you the correct shim for your situation.

Absolutely, I am very surprised at the number of people even up in their 40’s that aren’t able to drive a standard.

For what I believe it will cost you, I would tackle the body mount nuts and sheet metal work myself. Even if it is your first time, just my opinion. I would also do my own paint. Since you have not tried painting, I guess that just depends on how picky you are about the paint on your Jeep. You...

Can’t tell from the pictures, but is the steering box mounted? If not mount it first. Have you taken the shaft all the way out? And if you have are you able to collapse and extend it? Also you may try expanding the end of the shaft a little by driving a wedge or chisel into the split. The bolt...

Yeah if they want it bad enough anything can be overcome. But the average teenager or smash and grab junky are not usually that hard to foil.

Hidden kill switch and air tag

Not the answer you are looking for, but I believe that I would try to fab up a small bracket that would work. I was going to go that route, but needed to replace the brake proportioning valve. So I ended up getting a Wilwood manually adjustable valve that had a brake light switch built into it...

It’s been a few weeks now that I have gotten the old pig drivable after almost 4 years since buying it. Still working out some kinks.

Sounds like yours had captured nuts mine is an 89 and did not. It was the original hinges, there was no paint under the seam sealer. Also no paint on the outside under the hinges. Same goes for the rear tailgate hinges. Apparently, in 89 at least the outer body hardware was all added then the...

Replaced mine recently and the dash was completely apart. Even the main metal plate that goes on first. Don’t think that I could’ve done it any other way. I ended up using a propane torch on the seam sealer that was covering the nuts. Digging out the seam sealer was probably the biggest pain.

Body tub at least is a cj5 or M38 pre 72 .

Try looking at Clifford performance. With their intake and carb or carbs if you decide to go with the duel carb setup, you can fashion your own wiring harness from scratch.

Gigidy gigidy

If you are going off of stock gauge, try using a mechanical gauge to see if the reading you are seeing is correct.

I don’t think a turbo was factory on that vehicle. You will probably have to look for info from the turbo manufacturer.

Yes that will work also but the supports will probably have to be on each side of the plate so it can be removed. One support near the plate may be fine you will just have to try it.

If it’s still stock, spring is under axle so loosening the plate will cause the body and spring to go down away from axle. The tires can remain on the ground, but the body needs to be supported to keep it from lowering as you loosen the U bolts.

Check all the steering linkages. Tie rod end and ball joints. Also steering shaft u joints. The bottom steering column bearing is the one that goes bad the most.