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I understand it's a Torsen, but if you put a little throttle to them they lock up. Yeah, just gotta drive it easy. TADs' are certainly not for newbies.

Lockers are great, but not on any kind of slick surface, not even wet pavement. Once did a 360 on Bell road in the rain while I was learning my new rear Detroit in my old Waggy.

Helpful to me with the part numbers too, Chris. I once got that info from Macho, but that was long ago and forgot to wright it.

You got that right, brother!

Wow, my '91 had the same bumper crunch when got it and a little wrinkle in the fender, figure the PO probably hit a tree. Nice looking rig though the rust is a little concerning, YJs' are prone to it. I'm in the SW and mine was clean, guess I was just lucky. I wish you the very best of luck, you...

Might want to rethink keeping the factory stuff, I killed my D35 with a 2.5 on the first trip out. Beefed up, the 30 in front is OK up to 35s' but the D35 is absolute JUNK! Ended up having a custom D489 built, not in the plans, but it seems the Jeep had others plans. Especially if you plan on a...

if your having vibration problems (generally over 45mph) you will need to replace the DS with a CV unit which will also require a Slip Yoke Eliminator kit for the T-Case. This is a very common problem with spring lifts on YJs', body lifts not so much. But your DS angle is very close to what mine...

just about destroyed mine when I pulled it off, hence the replacement. The only thing worse would have been if they used that new gray Ford spec RTV, nasty stuff! Had a mechanic friend working on an oil seal and ended up destroying the pan to get to it. But the tar is still pretty nasty...

It sure is a mess.

I went with an after market aluminum cover and used rubber edging. My original was also sealed with tar, very disappointing. I expected better than that, but this was the AMF days at AMC when cardboard parts were also the order of the day.

That's kind of the way I was looking it, after prying a siliconed HD cover off several times. And they work with the tin covers too?

Thanks Macho, I knew you were using them. Not expecting any problems with mine using HD covers, was just curious if they were worth the price. Ordinarily with two machined surfaces I would be using aviation seal, if that stuff leaks , just re-torque. Just thought I would try something different...

Anybody here ever used Lube Locker gaskets on their diffs? I have them in both ends with no problems, but I also have HD covers. They were kind of spendy and I'm just curious if anyone's had any adverse experiences with them.

Don't know much about the ax15, but I do know know you don't want a t5, they were known for blowing up in CJ 7s' on the high ways resulting in roll overs.

Interesting picture as it has my fave in it. My magnetic tray, while not exactly a tool, I do nothing without it so I don't lose fasteners. Can't live without it.

Lets all take a moment of silence to honor all the brave young men who lost their lives on this fateful day 80 years ago.

Ok, that has nothing to do with locking the diff, that permanently engages the CAD. Just makes the front axle like running with the hubs locked in all the time. Also means the front drive shaft will always turn, though you may have to replace it with a CV shaft if you have vibes at high speed...

Sounds like mini-spools, though I'm not aware of any for a Jeep other than the D44. The front must still have the CAD or they wouldn't be able to steer. Let us know what you find.

I'm guessing it's in the rear? You can drive it as locked, but but it will super wear the tires. If it's permanently locked, it depends on how they did it, welded gears or a spool? You can drive it as locked, but but it will super wear the tires. If it's a lunchbox locker their super easy to...

BEAUTIFUL!!!!