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Possible causes: -Crank bearing caps aren’t seated properly (I removed #7 of course and loosened 4-5-6 to try and get a little more clearance above the crankshaft for the upper seal)? -There is some rubbing/burning of excess RTV at the rear seal. I didn’t over-apply it, but I saw a tiny bit...

I got the antifreeze replaced; I still needed 10 minutes to get that large clamp on but some cheap Amzon clamp pliers made it possible. I reinstalled the oil pan and spark plugs (I had removed them so it would be easier to turn the crankshaft when replacing the rear main seal), added oil to...

The kind with a cable? I’d never seen those before but would be worth it; i’ve been wrestling with in on my back for too long

I got a replacement lower radiator hose, Gates brand, and it looks more robust than whatever was on there before, and it looks a little shorter so it may not rub against the lower splash shield, which appears to be what was rubbing on the old hose. I’m having trouble with the hose clamp to the...

I also noticed a worn spot on my lower radiator hose. Good thing I saw it; that could have catastrophically overheated.

I ordered fel-pro and ultrapower seals, and a new fel-pro oil pan gasket. While waiting on parts to arrive, I decided to replace the coolant because I noticed it was very rust colored. I replaced the coolant a couple years ago when I got the jeep, and it was very rusty. No chunks or flakes...

I developed a leak at the lower rear of the engine and on the flywheel cover. Probably a rear main seal since I did the oil pan gasket just a year or so ago. I decided to replace bothe RMS and the oil pan gasket. I might as well try since RMS leaks are common and I don’t like fluid leaks on my...

Bestop

Assuming you are willing to communicate and meet with strangers, FB Marketplace and Craigslist will get you lots of views. Avoid autotrader. You can post it for sale here

Mine has smittybilt black vinyl. The only good thing about them is the retro low-back look. Otherwise they’re not very comfortable and have an awkward position. I’d much rather have original seats. Mine was bare metal when I got it; I put in a carpet kit and it was well worth it both for sound...

I’ve been wanting to try better shocks to see if I could smooth out the harshness going over bumps. I know it’s always going to be leaf springs but I was considering building it up a bit for trail use. However if it jars me to bits on washboard dirt roads or over small holes, it would make...

I got the Bestop last fall and it is just more time-consuming than the TJ design. Kind of disappointing. I go back and forth between leaving the top off for weeks at a time, and putting it on. My current compromise is top on, windows and doors off.

I think 30’s are great. 31’s would probably rub somewhere when the axles flex offroad, and they exacerbate the undergearing. I think 30’s on 2.5” are a good compromise between looks, offroad clearance, and minimizing power loss from bigger tires.

I measure 68” sidewall-to-sidewall. The tread is fully covered by the flares.

I have 30 x 9.5 tires on factory TJ wheels (15 X8) and a 2.5” lift. Tires don’t rub anywhere. Standard fender flares. I can post photos later today and even measure the total width if you like.

I’m still interested! 🙂

After:

I got the Big 7 from jeepcables installed this weekend. Not to difficult especially with some help from @Plastic Fury Before:

That’s what I ended up doing after watching a couple more videos. For some reason I thought I would have to remove the old cable out of the loom, but I guess it just stays put. The fit on the double PDC posts was awkward; I couldn’t arrange it so the little plastic shield would fit over it...

Did you install their external fuse, and remove the two 50A fuses from the PDC? The instructions on that seem ambiguous. Did you install the wires to the alternator? Seems like a fair bit of work to open the factory loom and wire bundles to the alternator.