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It’s been done before but it comes with some caveats and it hasn’t produced overwhelmingly positive results from the people who have swapped. If I wanted an auto I’d personally just go with the 3 speed.

Odd. They must not have realized yet that gear lube works better as a high speed tapered axle bearing grease. Once they switched to the 90 axle with roller bearings it went to gear lube. And then future D44’s and such that had bolt in axles still used gear lube. F’n Jeep.

I finally found a manual that explains how this works. The 1987-1989 D35 with bolt in axles uses greased bearings, not oiled. So there is an inner oil seal, and then all of the axle parts (axle retainer place, outer seal, wheel bearing/race, bearing retainer collar). For whatever reason, Jeep...

I received the factory '94-'95 6 cylinder manual driveshaft. Looks good, as the listing showed. I put it together with the new u-joints (Spicer 5-1310x & 5-1330x) and used my 2-3-12411x Spicer slip yoke from the '87-'93 factory driveshaft. It was a bit of a bitch, and the 1330 joint ended...

I experienced similar when I did the lift on my new-to-me YJ back in January 2014. The old shocks did not extend. The ride was terrible, which made me think all YJs ride terribly. Then the shocks provided with the lift maintained that thought. It wasn't until I tried OME suspension that I...

What all did they weld? Pinion angles can get pretty bad but I’d think they’d have to be really bad to be causing any clicking…I’d assume any clicking would be yoke ears clashing with every revolution. Some pics under the Jeep might help.

Great news: exhaust problems are now solved. With the cat slot being fully utilized (cat slid as far forward as it will go), I have plenty of clearance for the tailpipe to slide back as heat expansion occurs. Seems like maybe 1/4” is needed, and now I have about an inch. Cold: Warm...

Yeah…you got it. Gotta hammer out the caged bearings. 1995 and up t-cases came stock without the bearings and the SYE was modeled after that. Welcome aboard.

Long post of progress updates. Starting to make some more headway, but naturally, with a few hangups along the way. I still have some driveline vibes, but I haven’t had a chance to really weigh down the rear yet. I have no rear bumper at the moment, and I haven’t even filled the tank up yet...

I forgot to mention that I tried the Bestop Trailmax II Pro and in mine I found them to be terrible like the others. Could be my height and leg vs torso length (5’ 11 30” inseam), or it could be the 91-95 driver’s seat bracket, or it could just be my preference. There were two problems with them...

My problem was the floor hump. I forget the details but I got mine as good as I felt like I could get it, and still don’t like it. Oh well, it works, just bothers me a bit looking at it.

Does yours lean at all? Mine ended up leaning right from my install 12 years ago. Being so close to the left seat made it not really sit right on the tub. Tried to redo the holes when I got the radio version a few years ago and I still couldn’t really get it any better than I have it.

Definitely need to either drop the radiator or delete the body lift so a new intact shroud can be reinstalled. That would be step one for me if I was in that boat. Lower temp thermostats can help by prolonging the overheating but when it's hot outside, you will still climb right up to the max...

Cup holders are way better on Tuffy than stock. I couldn’t even fit a coke can in the stock 91-95 console. Terrible. A large fast food cup fits easy in the Tuffy.

The problem is that 87-90 seats were spaced further apart than 91-95 seats, and not all aftermarket product manufacturers got the memo. Therefore they make a console and list it to fit all years. The 8" consoles don't fit properly in a 91-95 YJ. I bought that console you have 12 years ago and...

Are you having issues with the factory seats? I find that the stock seats are a much better fit than anything aftermarket I’ve seen. Almost guaranteed - adapting anything to the factory brackets will sit too high. Aftermarket seats are almost always 2-3” thicker in the cushion making them...

I’m assuming you meant either 4.11 or 5.13 gears. 5.13 would be a bit deep but wouldn’t cause any issues. 4.11 with 33’s honestly isn’t enough gearing in my opinion…I’d want 4.88, but 4.11 works well enough when options are limited. If the seller insists on 5.11, ask them to clarify and show...

Glad they seem good. They were very soft on mine. In hindsight, I probably should have kept them, but I wanted the correct length for stock height. I like the Bilsteins too, but they are definitely more stiff and kind of bounce over things.

I'm not the guy you quoted originally....looks like he has Corbeau seats. I have stock seats, which are shown in the photo I just posted, and I still have them but they are covered with Bestop seat covers now. Console mostly sits where it's supposed to, but it's a bit of a pain to get it...

That looks like original position to me. Here is a pic of mine from years ago with stock seats. I always found the armrest to be at a mostly decent height.