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Another option. And if you think that you were worried about being flamed. Two of the rear body mounts, put them in the original spot if possible or as near as possible. Hold them in by whatever means that you can. Zip ties, silicone RTV, Gorilla tape, flex seal, super glue, ok a few of those...

Yes that would all be money well spent for sure.

On a Chevy 350 years ago I was able to see a similar cleanup on the inside just by switching to Mobile 1.

Nice tuned port Chevy, bet it’s a handful in a YJ.

If you do decide on springs, take a look at general spring company. As far as I have seen they only do stock replacement and not lift springs. The YJ fronts are available in 650lb and 840lb at $100 per spring. Or, as Macho said if it’s not a problem just live with it. It’s your Jeep your choice.

Honestly if it’s a stock suspension I think leaf spring replacement on the front.

Not sure how bad yours is but mine spent it’s life in Ohio and the salt brine wreaked havoc to the point that I had to replace the frame. Just know that whatever you see there is a lot more. As far as repair, if you can’t find a shop that will an out of work trades welder like boiler makers may...

Two of those on passenger side on mine were holding the solenoid on the firewall. If I remember correctly they were sheet metal screws. The rest I can’t remember without studying mine.

Sounds to me like it may be the choke. Does it by chance have an electric choke? It may just need to be adjusted a little.

Anything that Yukon makes is top notch in my opinion anyway. The Duragrip is a clutch type limited slip, so it works like any other of that style. Meaning that over time the clutches will wear and it will either require service or become less efficient as a limited slip. The Eaton TruTrac is a...

A selectable locker won’t effect it on the road at all. Brands are Ox, Eaton, arb, Grizzly, etc. A posi is good too. If I were going posi I would use an Eaton TruTrac.

If I was replacing the carrier I would look real hard at a selectable locker. It will be more expensive, but if you can afford it, I believe personally that it’s worth it.

Redbullet, it is amazing what you can do with less than 20 pages.

Well the engine sure is purdy.

If you are unable to find out any other way you can disconnect and start it up shortly.

Well it will be an option at least. Don’t know how hard a factory one may that will work may be to come by. e to come b

Looks like Novak has the cure for $178.00

Interesting, I have a new Novak trans still in the box for a year that I haven’t even opened yet. And I have a 89 Np231 to mate it to. Looks like I’ll be in the same boat.

I personally would check to see how solid it is overall. If it will hold up to a few hammer strikes and not come apart I would just grind and fix the pin holes, then hit the rusty areas with rust converter then brush on some POR15. If you are unable to weld up the pin holes my old pre welding...

Yeah, this may be a problem. In 1990 it should have been an R12 system. R12 is outrageously expensive now if it can even still be obtained. A local friend of mine who does all my ac work had told me in the past that the systems that used different refrigerants are not compatible with one...